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Old 11-11-2009, 12:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by george douglas View Post
These are all good reports and shows that you have several choices of oils to use. I had posted last year a few of the Amsoil reports at the 10,000 mile mark and the oil could have been used another year. the Amsoil reports did not suffer any lowering of the viscosity though. The elavated copper that the lab is talking about is nothing to worry about. With synthetics the copper is normally elavated, but when petroleum oil is used the copper does not show up until it is really wearing. In diesel engines using synthetic oil the copper will show high elevations that is being leached from the oil coolers, but this is not an indication of bearing wear. In my opinion when choosing an oil it comes down to how much over kill do you want and does one want longer service life and more riding time. We all have different motivations and concerns.
george
Do you have any U.O.A. you could post?
My Softail had an oil cooler so the copper is
probably from that.
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Old 11-12-2009, 07:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vindex1963 View Post
Do you have any U.O.A. you could post?
My Softail had an oil cooler so the copper is
probably from that.
I have many over the years, but they are back at my office in Florida and I am in Tennessee presently building my so called retirement home. I have posted some in the past so maybe you can do a search. What I have found to be consistant is most oils used in HD's shear back the viscosity after a couple thousand miles, but this does not seem to affect the wear at all and most that are using synthetic, even syn 3 will have higher copper levels. It seems that synthetics show these elevated levels possibly through their inherent cleaning or detergent ability over dino oils.
george
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Old 11-13-2009, 07:41 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I'm copying this to the U.O.A. sticky with permission from "dynarule".
Attached Files
File Type: doc havoline.doc (1,010.0 KB, 361 views)
File Type: doc Valvoline.doc (779.5 KB, 356 views)
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:35 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by george douglas View Post
These are all good reports and shows that you have several choices of oils to use. <> In my opinion when choosing an oil it comes down to how much over kill do you want and does one want longer service life and more riding time. We all have different motivations and concerns.
george


You know; after all the mile long oil discussions and debates; I think this is what it all boils down to. I´ve been on two wheels since´77, and IMHO, we´ve never had oils that are as good as the ones we have today. We´ve never had it so good!

Is this the end of all oil debates? I hope not; sometimes it´s fun...

mike
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Old 11-13-2009, 08:25 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vindex1963 View Post
I'm copying this to the U.O.A. sticky with permission from "dynarule".
The Valvoline sample is to good to believe as the lab even mentioned. I have seen new oil with no mileage straight out of the bottle not test this good.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:12 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I have posted some in the past so maybe you can do a search.
I couldn't find any.
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Old 11-16-2009, 02:36 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I couldn't find any.
nor could I...
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Old 02-09-2010, 03:09 PM   #23 (permalink)
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RobertC wants to know Dino or Syn?
Not bad.

I was tipped to look by another thread.

And, BTW, know the major difference in a 20W50 car oil and a 20W 50 V-Twin oil?

Me neither!

As far as I know, it's then label.

Trivia: at 40 weight the EPA rules change. I have been told by people that get paid to know these things.

That's why the biggest delta in car and MC oils in the 50 range could well be label and price.

I don't worry about it.

I would, however, like to see a TAN, now AN, run. BN is typically a diesel thing.

TAN= Total Acid number
TBN= Total Base Number

Indicators of the oils ability to neutralize harmful acids.

Myself, I've choisen toe rely on a RULER. Gives an indeication of oxidative life left, among other things, and I can run it on my desk with 400 microliters of oil.


Keep up the goodness.
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Old 02-09-2010, 04:30 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Myself, I've choisen toe rely on a RULER. Gives an indeication of oxidative life left, among other things, and I can run it on my desk with 400 microliters of oil.
...what...?? LOL
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:09 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I couldn't find any.
I will try and find some time to post again some reports I have or if you give me a fax number I can fax them to you and you can post them. I have been doing oil analysis since 1966 on everything from jet engines to lawn mowers. I am not that savy with the scanner in my office and have also been real busy with my oil business plus building a new house in Tennessee for the last 6 months.
george
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:24 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertC View Post
Not bad.

I was tipped to look by another thread.

And, BTW, know the major difference in a 20W50 car oil and a 20W 50 V-Twin oil?

Me neither!

As far as I know, it's then label.

Trivia: at 40 weight the EPA rules change. I have been told by people that get paid to know these things.

That's why the biggest delta in car and MC oils in the 50 range could well be label and price.

I don't worry about it.

I would, however, like to see a TAN, now AN, run. BN is typically a diesel thing.

TAN= Total Acid number
TBN= Total Base Number

Indicators of the oils ability to neutralize harmful acids.

Myself, I've choisen toe rely on a RULER. Gives an indeication of oxidative life left, among other things, and I can run it on my desk with 400 microliters of oil.


Keep up the goodness.
Robert, I know I am singing to the choir, but TBN also helps to determine how much longer an oil can be used in gas engines as well as diesels. My experience with TAN readings has mostly been in non combustion equipment like gearlubes and transmissions, compressors and etc. It basically does the same thing in a way as TBN, but looking at it from a different angle so to speak.

As far as what's the difference between automotive oil versus motorcycle oil, depending on who is making it is the difference. A manufacture can design the oil so it meets both specs and just use a label to differentiate it or they could design it differently from their automotive oil. Most oils have some cross over as far as specs go. Looking at the UOA or a virgin sample will give you the answer.
george
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:37 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by george douglas View Post
I will try and find some time to post again some reports I have or if you give me a fax number I can fax them to you and you can post them. I have been doing oil analysis since 1966 on everything from jet engines to lawn mowers. I am not that savy with the scanner in my office and have also been real busy with my oil business plus building a new house in Tennessee for the last 6 months.
george
I don't have a fax sorry.
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:02 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I would think that someone out there would have something to offer here. Pry the $20.00 from your hand and have your opinions of the latest and greatest put into writing. Quite a few have threatened to get a UOA done but they didn't. Someone will post brand ## is better than brand @@ and it will turn into 10 pages of it looks better so I switched. Prove it...


George my wife has a fax at work that I can use. I'll P.M. the number to you.
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:33 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by george douglas View Post
These are all good reports and shows that you have several choices of oils to use. I had posted last year a few of the Amsoil reports at the 10,000 mile mark and the oil could have been used another year. the Amsoil reports did not suffer any lowering of the viscosity though. The elavated copper that the lab is talking about is nothing to worry about. With synthetics the copper is normally elavated, but when petroleum oil is used the copper does not show up until it is really wearing. In diesel engines using synthetic oil the copper will show high elevations that is being leached from the oil coolers, but this is not an indication of bearing wear. In my opinion when choosing an oil it comes down to how much over kill do you want and does one want longer service life and more riding time. We all have different motivations and concerns.
george
I ran Amsoil for a few years (not complaining about it) but after about 4500 miles, I didn't like the color or the smell of it and drained it out at that milage or sooner every time.
I use reg oil in it now and change between 3 to 3500 miles.
I am not saying that anything was wrong but with the color and the old oil smell I was not comfortable leaving the oil in longer...call me old fashoned.
I do run Mobil 1 V twin oil in my primery and love it
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Old 03-08-2010, 11:57 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I ran Amsoil for a few years (not complaining about it) but after about 4500 miles, I didn't like the color or the smell of it and drained it out at that milage or sooner every time.
I use reg oil in it now and change between 3 to 3500 miles.
I am not saying that anything was wrong but with the color and the old oil smell I was not comfortable leaving the oil in longer...call me old fashoned.
I do run Mobil 1 V twin oil in my primery and love it
You most likely drained perfectly good oil. I am faxing several oil reports to Vindex so he can post them with nearly 10,000 miles on the same oil and each case the oil could have been used longer. I understand your comfort level and if you don't know about oils it is best to play it safe and drain early.
george
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