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Old 08-28-2005, 03:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Roadking Classic rear wheel removal.

I got a nail in the rear tyre and have never done anything major mechanically on the harley. Getting the rear wheel off looks straight forward but do I need to follow any procedures to avoid pain when putting the wheel gack on?

I've got a bike lift so it's safe to work on. I've slipped the pipes off and marked the position of the belt tension cam.

I don't have a manual and I'm 50 miles from the dealers on a 3 day holiday weekend here in the UK. Any help or a scan from the manual emailed to me would great. It's going in for a service as soon as I'm back on the road so I'll get the alignment etc checked out then.

Col.
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Old 08-28-2005, 04:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There is no need to mess with the adjusters. Just pull the axle, move the wheel forward. The brake caliper will have to be moved to the outside to clear the tire....Torque the axle nut to 60-65 ftlbs.

I loosen the upper shock bolts and remove the lower shock bolts {instead of pulling the pipes}to move the wheel/swingarm. {25-35 ftlbs}
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Old 08-28-2005, 05:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If if is a '02-up, it doesn't have axle adjusters. You have to turn the cam style adjuster on the end of the axles to get proper belt tension and hold it there while tightening the axle nut.
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Old 08-28-2005, 05:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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lots of help here with the forum

there a lot of riders here on the forums who will reply if you get into trouble.

You might have an issue with sliping the tyre free from the rear brake assembly. Some times the caliper needs to have the pads forced back a bit. One method of doing that is to slip a paint scraper (looks like a palet knife) between the rotor and the pads. Then you sort of pry the pads to move the piston back into the caliper. That usually allows you to slide the rear wheel and rotor assembly out of the brake caliper.

Send me an email if you think you might need some additional suggestions.
Your project is straight forward and not overly complicated.
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Old 08-28-2005, 06:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Big Thanks

xxxflhrci, Mine is an 2002 model and has the cam style adjusters. I've marked the current setting so it sounds like the only trouble will be getting the wheel past the brake caliper.

Fourcats, Thanks for the torque settings.

toybox99615, Thanks for the tip about the brake pads.

It's midnight here so I'll sign off and sleep easy thanks to you guys.

Thanks again.

Col
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Old 08-28-2005, 07:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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cjroadking, be sure and put a thin coat of antisieze on the axle before putting back in.

JMS in TX
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Old 08-29-2005, 02:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Always learning.

antisieze ? I wouldn't have known to do that. Thanks.

Is there a specific type I should use ? Harley always seem to have a "special" when it comes to lubrications etc.

I think it's time I bought a service manual and got down to some studying.

Col.
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Old 08-29-2005, 06:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Anti-Seize is not an H-D product. Permatex makes it. There are other brands of the same thing. Any will be fine.

As with everything, they will gouge you horribly for that Service Manual in the UK. If you can get it from the US do so, or PM me, and we'll work it out.

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Old 08-30-2005, 08:22 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks again

Harris, Thanks for the update. I'm starting the job tomorrow.

I called my HD dealer to book a service and mentioned the puncture and they told me to replace the tyre 140+tax. It's only a clean, small 1/16" diameter hole, dead centre of the tread. no tyre wall damage because it went flat sitting in the garage for a week. Riding a Harley would be a bit expensive if HD had their way.

I think a good tyre repair dealer will do the job but I will be watching how they treat the chrome rims.

( I'm coming over to San Francisco in a couple of weeks so I'll collect a manual then. Thanks for the offer. )

Col
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Old 08-30-2005, 10:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Update>

Hi.

I went for the anti-seize to a autoshop and they gave me a tube of copper grease. It resists seizing and extreme temperatures. I also got a tube of Fire Gum which helps slipping the mufflers back on then seals the joint.

Regarding the tyre repair. I looked at the Dunlop site for the MU85B16 spec. They say that it can be repaired with the plug and patch method but basically should'nt exceed 50mph. I suppose a lot of that is just covering their ass but I don't go fast anyway. I found a Kawazaki dealer in York that is qualified to repair for just 35, so the wheel is coming off tomorrow.

Col.
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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How many miles are on the tire, and how much tread is left?
If it were me and I was going to all of the trouble to remove the tire, I would replace it with a new one. I know that is more expensive than a repair, but a least you would have peice of mind knowing you shouldn't have any safety issues associated with a repaired tire.
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Col,

Patchng from the inside, or installing a tube are the two methods that are probably acceptable for your puncture. If the tire is in the second half of its life I'd go ahead and replace.

Harris

PS: Simultaneous post. Road_King made the point better than I did.
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Old 08-30-2005, 02:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If they've got more than 2k or so of good life left in them, I always just replace the tube. A tube is only 8 bucks.
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Old 08-31-2005, 03:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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The tyre is like new. Only 5000 miles gentle miles( except for failing to avoid the nail, Ha! ).

I feel that I should go for the replacement because of the safety aspect but really grabs me the way we get ripped off in the UK for parts etc. I might shop around to see if a tyre repair dealer can get a replacement cheaper than the HD dealer price.

I do try to support my local HD dealer by buying parts and services from them but the more I look into this I think it would pay me to take a motorcycle mechanics traing course and source the parts myself.

The replacement tyre is 140 ($252) + 17.5% tax + labour ( 70/hour ). On top of this the 5k service is due at 170. I'd better get some overtime in this month.

Col
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Old 08-31-2005, 10:56 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I feel your pain about the costs your paying. You should feel a bit better that your saving labor costs by removing the rear wheel yourself.
In addition, if you mechanically inclined enough to do that, with the HD service manual in hand, you should be fine with performing the 5K service yourself. Thats an additional opportunity to save even more money.
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