Short front brake lever travel

[74XL]

Just recently I started getting my 74 XL ready for the road again. I'm having a front brake issue I'm hoping someone can shed some light on.

I have a rebuilt stock style caliper with new pads. I have a new control set with a new master cylinder. I have installed a Russell braided brake hose and I am using DOT5 silicone fluid.

The brakes stop ok, but the lever has an abnormally short pull before the caliper engages. It's really annoying as I am used to the lever moving through 40-50% of its travel before normal braking occurs. The deal is that it is extremely uncomfortable to have your hand opened that much and have to apply pressure in that position.

I am leaning toward a couple of causes and I am hoping someone here maybe has seen this before.

1. The pads aren't dragging after the brake is released, so I am guessing the caliper piston is returning slightly into the bore as it should when it is released. But maybe not far enough?

or 2. I am thinking the more likely explanation is that the braided brake hose isn't swelling like a stock hose, and is making the lever too stiff too quickly. I am guessing that if this is the cause though, some of you guys have dealt with it already? Any help is appreciated as this short lever travel really sucks!

[DR_DEUCE]

The braided line is contributing to this, as are the new pads. I actually like the feel you describe. When my lever pulls in too far, I put a new set of pads on, then use the front pads on the rear. If your rear pads are worn more, sand them flat and put them up front.

[74XL]

The rear has drum, so I can't swap them. But, when you say you like the feel of this, I should be clear and say that the brake lever pull is only about 1/2" before solid. Is that what you are describing? If so, I guess I can maybe learn to deal with it, but I'm not a small guy and don't have small hands so I can't imagine a guy with smaller hands, let alone a chick, being able to use this front brake. Maybe I'll run to the stealer today and see if my control set is just making it worse by having the lever start too far from the grip. But is a 1/2" of pull normal with this setup you think?

[DR_DEUCE]

Exactly. Why pull 1 1/2 inches, when you can get away with 1/2"??
If you want more travel, sand the pads down. The "square" O rings in the caliper pulls the pads back in, so the thinner the pad, the more travel you'll have.

[Geezer-Glide]

Originally Posted by 74XL

The rear has drum, so I can't swap them. But, when you say you like the feel of this, I should be clear and say that the brake lever pull is only about 1/2" before solid. Is that what you are describing? If so, I guess I can maybe learn to deal with it, but I'm not a small guy and don't have small hands so I can't imagine a guy with smaller hands, let alone a chick, being able to use this front brake. Maybe I'll run to the stealer today and see if my control set is just making it worse by having the lever start too far from the grip. But is a 1/2" of pull normal with this setup you think?

Normal pull.

[pwwise]

I'm thinking you're dead on with the difference in Cables. I've actually thought of going to braided cables; more so for the effect you describe vs. looks. I like the brakes being right there when I touch the lever.

[74XL]

Ok, thanks all. I'll learn to deal with it. I am a motocross/enduro rider since I was a kid and this is just really unusual for me as I am used to feathering the front brake with my index and middle finger and having it engage close enough to the grip that I still have good control with the remaining two fingers on the grip. Using all 4 fingers and having my hand opened all the way to grab the lever seems strange to me, but I'll cope. Thanks again for the advice. At least I know there isn't an issue with the hardware.

[geoffreyt]

Call me uninformed, but Id say your master is too large for the system. Could this be?

[SnailTraX]

I agree that the master cylinder is too big of a bore also. I would bet big money on it. Sanding the pads will not affect lever travel either. Worn pads will not stop as good, so you have to squeeze a little harder, but the travel would be exactly the same for the same movement of the pads.

[petrock]

My brakes behave the same way. I like it alot. If your the other bikes you've ridden travel 40-50% before normal braking, sounds like you need to bleed your brakes. You brake lever should be firm, not squishy. I also wouldn't advise sanding down your brake pads. Thats a waste, with little/no benifit.

[74XL]

Right, I believe a reduction in pad thickness would only be taken up by fluid anyway. I'd go for the master cyl to caliper piston ratio theory though. Although I'll just have to learn to live with it as these are brand new controls and I ain't replacing them for that! I suppose the only other option would be a replacement lever that isn't so far from the grip to begin with. It's not really the short pull as much as how far it is from the grip when holding. Thanks again guys!

[jerry34208]

I had new pads installed on my '01 FXD a while back. Darnedest thing. When I got the bike back I noticed right off that my lever action was very short and firm just as you describe. No other changes were done, just the stock pad replacement. I thought, OK thicker pads moved the action out to the end but as stated earlier in this thread with a hydraulic system it should be the same new or old. So, I now subscribe to the theory that the tech at my dealership went ahead and bled the system and corrected a mushy lever in the process. At any rate I like it better now. It catches my attention when I hop straight from the Ultra (which prolly needs new pads & a bleed) to the Dyna. WHOA

[DR_DEUCE]

As I stated before, a thinner pad will give you more lever travel. You'll find this out, when they wear. This is due to the style of O ring used in the calipers. The "rings" have square edges that pull the pads back.