2002 FLHR Cruise Control : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

Av8r3400 · 07-23-2008, 06:24 AM

The wife's 2002 FLHR Cruise Control has quit working.

The power switch lights when turned on, but it will not take a "set". I installed the unit myself, so I am familiar with the mechanical and electrical hookups. The control unit is getting power (light on power switch) and all plugs are tight and not corroded. The cable to the throttle body is good. I took apart the "set" switch in the throttle grip and it *looks* fine with no mechanical breakage or corrosion evident.

Do these control units go bad?? Is there something else I should check on before I spring for an entire new control?

Thanks, guys.

ChopperDude · 07-23-2008, 08:45 AM

Get the Service Manual, and do the full process. You can put the system into "debug" mode, and test each of the 'pieces'. Set - Resume - Throttle roll off - brake - etc.

Mine was bad, the resume portion was "always on", not letting the SET switch operate. About to solder a new switch in. I would NOT jump to replacing the main module until testing the system out further. I'd look for pinched wires as well.

MegaGlide · 07-23-2008, 08:47 AM

Make sure your brake light isn't stuck on.
It happens...

sblair · 07-23-2008, 10:17 AM

And also the throttle cables tension. Too tight and it prevents the Cruise from engaging.

Av8r3400 · 07-23-2008, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChopperDude

Get the Service Manual, and do the full process. You can put the system into "debug" mode, and test each of the 'pieces'. Set - Resume - Throttle roll off - brake - etc.

Mine was bad, the resume portion was "always on", not letting the SET switch operate. About to solder a new switch in. I would NOT jump to replacing the main module until testing the system out further. I'd look for pinched wires as well.

I don't have a SM for the '02, but I do have one for my '00. Would it be the same??

Av8r3400 · 07-23-2008, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sblair

And also the throttle cables tension. Too tight and it prevents the Cruise from engaging.

OOOOOOO!! We just had a 10K done on this bike and the cruise hasn't worked since. I wonder if they didn't tighten up the cables too much!!

Gotta go home and check!

Thanks!

Av8r3400 · 07-24-2008, 06:00 AM

Gonna bump this back up.

The cable tension was fine, BUT the pressure switch on the idle cable is bad. I unplugged the switch and the cruise works again. It just does not disengage when you push down the throttle.

Can anyone explain how this little switch works? Can it be fixed or is it required to replace the entire cable (as the book says)?

ChopperDude · 07-24-2008, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Av8r2230

Can anyone explain how this little switch works? Can it be fixed or is it required to replace the entire cable (as the book says)?

I'll confess... was a tech for 4 years, and never learned how that particular "switch" worked. Maybe someone else can tell us. But the one time we had one fail, we replaced the cable. Doesn't mean there's not a "fix" though. Just make sure that the rear half of the cable housing is up "inside" the front half, that black bell looking thing. During their adjustment, they might've messed that up.

And I want to clarify what I said earlier about the Service Manual... the cruise diagnostics is not in that one, it's in the separate Electrical Diagnostics Manual, if that's the right title.

Sounds like you have it narrowed down though. If fiddling with that part of the idle cable doesn't let the switch start working, I think you gotta replace the cable. OR... just run it and remember to touch the brake to cut off the cruise.

Av8r3400 · 07-24-2008, 09:36 AM

My 2000 FLT shop manual did have a diagnostic procedure that I used to find the problem.

That was an awesome tip. After 8 years that book finally paid for itself.

ChopperDude · 07-24-2008, 12:49 PM

Maybe in 2000, it was all in one manual. I know that somewhere in there (2002?), they started splitting the electrical diagnostics into a separate book.

Regardless... glad that you figured it out. Changing that cable isn't *too* hard, so you can get that cruise working again.

Mine's been tore down for two weeks, had to get the part in, and haven't swung the time to solder the new switch in. I commute almost 50 miles one-way (mostly highway), and I GOTTA have my cruise!! Best accessory I've added.

gtnot · 07-24-2008, 12:58 PM

Personally, I just run without that switch. Let's see...clutch, front brake, rear brake, cruise power switch...yeah, that's enough.

Av8r3400 · 07-25-2008, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtnot

Personally, I just run without that switch. Let's see...clutch, front brake, rear brake, cruise power switch...yeah, that's enough.

I couldn't agree more.

I asked the wife, "How can you disengage the cruise on your bike?"

She said, "Tap the brakes or shut it [the cruise] off."

So this is a safety feature she didn't even know existed. I will change out the cable, but not now. Maybe this winter.

MegaGlide · 07-25-2008, 06:56 AM

I never liked disengaging it that way, myself.
Just "feels" like it's hard on it.

ChopperDude · 07-25-2008, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MegaGlide

I never liked disengaging it that way, myself.
Just "feels" like it's hard on it.

I agree.. I always just tap my front brake to disengage. Rolling the throttle back always feels like I'm "forcing" something.

PR3VS56 · 07-25-2008, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChopperDude

I agree.. I always just tap my front brake to disengage. Rolling the throttle back always feels like I'm "forcing" something.

Well, yes you are, but it's intentional. Seems wrong, but it's right. You're pulling the idle cable hard enough to click the inline switch. If you didn't need to click hard, the switch would inadvertently disengage the cruise.