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Old 07-19-2008, 06:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otterbob View Post
Steves a great guy and his headwork is amazing. Hes got my business for engine work from now on.
you mean R&R head work is amazing.
gmr does not do headwork.
dont want to start nothing but we have to give credit where credit is due.
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Old 07-19-2008, 07:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEDELUXE View Post
you mean R&R head work is amazing.
gmr does not do headwork.
dont want to start nothing but we have to give credit where credit is due.
To be specific then SD, R&R cuts the heads for GMR you can not call Reggie and get any of Steve's heads unless you go through GMR your logic is like sayin the Wood cams are really Andrew's cams. Steve is DIRECTLY involved in what is being done to his heads, they also hand finish the heads once they get back to their shop. So please LETS give credit were credit is due.

Also GMR does not "hide" the fact that R&R cuts his heads...check around GMR might not be the only one that has "their" heads cut there
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Old 07-19-2008, 07:19 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEDELUXE View Post
you mean R&R head work is amazing.
gmr does not do headwork.
dont want to start nothing but we have to give credit where credit is due.
truth is----------------this is correct. gmr is drop ship mail order. nothing against steve, but facts are facts.
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Old 07-19-2008, 07:39 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AZFXSTB View Post
To be specific then SD, R&R cuts the heads for GMR you can not call Reggie and get any of Steve's heads unless you go through GMR your logic is like sayin the Wood cams are really Andrew's cams. Steve is DIRECTLY involved in what is being done to his heads, they also hand finish the heads once they get back to their shop. So please LETS give credit were credit is due.

Also GMR does not "hide" the fact that R&R cuts his heads...check around GMR might not be the only one that has "their" heads cut there
like i said i am not here to bash Steve.
i just stated GMR does not do their own head work.
and yes there are a lot of shops out there that sell R&R products just like gmr does.
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:50 PM   #20 (permalink)
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That's right. And before GMR sold R&R components, he was pushing Rev Perf, Ultima rollers and everything in between - and with a variety of other builders dyno sheets on his site for you to get excited about.

You could buy the same components from Zanottis and have a Zanotti's build. Of course their customer service might be more consistent.
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Old 07-21-2008, 11:21 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I though Steve tried to, did go well and he decided R&R could go do better. I think it was the right thing to do, if they can do a better job go with them. Some people and buisnesses have a niche.

Problem is some people are afraid to come and say anything. Pussyfoot around.

I am gonna pull my heads this winter. I can not get a leak down test over 12psi, just keeps hissing out the carb. To be fair its my 1st time, but I tried and tried and tried. Kept trying differnt spots in stroke. Tried holding the tire so it would move. Which is harder then you think. But I can't say if I was doing it right for sure.

But there has been talk about some of those old heads. Like I said I give him credit, he went to someone who could do them better.
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Old 07-21-2008, 11:25 PM   #22 (permalink)
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When I got to the end of my build. I asked steve what to jet to. He said to go smaller then stock. I did the stage I myself, and that is smaller. He said no I just did one. I then looked it up in my service manual. He told me it was a misprint, he just did one.

Said dealer must have done it. Anything is possible. Except, the size in ther agreed with all the research I did here when doing my stage I.
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Sometimes I think its a sin, when I feel like I am winning when I am losing again.-GL
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Old 07-21-2008, 11:39 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Move it to TDC (where both valves are closed), put it in gear and have someone step down hard on the rear brake...no problem...BTW...12% may not be that bad...

Quote:
Originally Posted by berserker View Post
I though Steve tried to, did go well and he decided R&R could go do better. I think it was the right thing to do, if they can do a better job go with them. Some people and buisnesses have a niche.

Problem is some people are afraid to come and say anything. Pussyfoot around.

I am gonna pull my heads this winter. I can not get a leak down test over 12psi, just keeps hissing out the carb. To be fair its my 1st time, but I tried and tried and tried. Kept trying differnt spots in stroke. Tried holding the tire so it would move. Which is harder then you think. But I can't say if I was doing it right for sure.

But there has been talk about some of those old heads. Like I said I give him credit, he went to someone who could do them better.
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Old 07-21-2008, 11:48 PM   #24 (permalink)
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12% leakage is pretty good. Air coming out the carb is not. However, it is quite important to be on TDC firing for the most accurate reading.
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Old 07-22-2008, 07:54 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Not 12%, 12 psi. Anything over that, and it started coming out the carb. Ithought I wanted 30 psi. Would have to research again, I did it inthe spring. Should try again.

I thought I was at TDC. I tried above and below, about 10 atleast, literally. I had the break pedal ducked taped down. I tried both cylidners, I even tried another 180 degrees in case I was completely off. I've had my engine apart, done this before.

But I have never down a leak down test, so I am not guaranteeing I did it right.

Also I would think a little before TDC would be good, valves should be close on compression stroke??
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Lets not turn on each other, unless we have to.
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Helmets are like rubbers you know you should wear one, but its so much better when you don't.-Me
Sometimes I think its a sin, when I feel like I am winning when I am losing again.-GL
2001 FLHR, RP 98", GMR heads, 9.7, .03 HG, 37G, SE AC, CV44, DTT, LMR2, HD oil cooler,V&H classics(I know I should get 2-1)
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Old 07-22-2008, 12:50 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Set the regulator on the input of your leak down tester at 100PSI supply then if you see 12 psi loss (or 88PSI) during testing this would also be stated at 12% loss. It is best and safest to set the engine at TDC as I said because you have the best lever advantage keeping the engine from turning while it is in gear, using the rear brake.

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Originally Posted by berserker View Post
Not 12%, 12 psi. Anything over that, and it started coming out the carb. I thought I wanted 30 psi. Would have to research again, I did it inthe spring. Should try again.

I thought I was at TDC. I tried above and below, about 10 atleast, literally. I had the break pedal ducked taped down. I tried both cylidners, I even tried another 180 degrees in case I was completely off. I've had my engine apart, done this before.

But I have never down a leak down test, so I am not guaranteeing I did it right.

Also I would think a little before TDC would be good, valves should be close on compression stroke??
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Old 07-22-2008, 06:07 PM   #27 (permalink)
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As I tryed to turn the PSI up it hissed out the carb. If I tried to crank it to 100 psi it would just hiss out faster right?? At 30 psi the percent leak was way high.

Still confused on this one.
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Lets not turn on each other, unless we have to.
The Devil made me do it the first time, the second time I did it on my own-Waylon
Helmets are like rubbers you know you should wear one, but its so much better when you don't.-Me
Sometimes I think its a sin, when I feel like I am winning when I am losing again.-GL
2001 FLHR, RP 98", GMR heads, 9.7, .03 HG, 37G, SE AC, CV44, DTT, LMR2, HD oil cooler,V&H classics(I know I should get 2-1)
2007 FLHTCU SERT, SE AC & Fat Cat
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Old 07-22-2008, 10:07 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Leakdown Tester Procedure:
1. Put the engine at TDC on the firing stroke (both valves closed). Put it in gear and immobilize the rear wheel...step hard on the brake or clamp the brake pedal down.
2. Hook up the Leak Down Tester to an air supply of at least 100PSI without the output hose attached.
3. Set the Leak Down Tester regulator at 100PSI without the outlet hose attached.
4. Screw the outlet hose into the sparkplug hole of interest. Make sure it's tight.
5. Now, plug the outlet hose into the Leak Down Tester. If there is absolutely no leakage the reading will still be 100PSI or 0% leakage. If it leaks 5% then it will show 95 PSI or a 5% pressure drop. The leakdown tester is actually measuring the pressure drop.

Notes:
a. Remove the crankcase oil fill plug...If air comes out of the crankcase oil fill hole you are measuring leakage by the rings or in extreme cases casting leaks. Put some thin cellophane over the fill port and it will bulge if there is a leak. If it's extreme you can easily hear it.
b. If air comes out the carb or throttle body then it is leaking by the intake valve...some valves will work fine and leak a little if they are dirty.
c. If air comes out of the exhaust pipe it is leaking by the exhaust valve...

I hope this helps..good luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by berserker View Post
As I tryed to turn the PSI up it hissed out the carb. If I tried to crank it to 100 psi it would just hiss out faster right?? At 30 psi the percent leak was way high.

Still confused on this one.
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Old 07-23-2008, 11:50 AM   #29 (permalink)
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captvic rides! he has like 25000 miles on the 07, and scattered the last motor at 138 mph (GPS). he also has an 08 ultra ye is racking the miles on. its just that the 124 is fresh.

i would say that if steves build can take vics abuse, (2700 miles would have shown a problem), then he built vic a damned good motor!
I ride hard, I now have 29000 on my softail ( 4000 on the 124" build), and just did my 10000 mile service on my Ultra. I am 65 years old and just got a ticket for drag racing. Second childhood and having a ball. By the way I have only had the 08 ultra for 8 month now. In that time I have put 6000 miles on the 07 and 10000 on the 08. Berserken how many miles have you put on your ride in the last 8 month?
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Old 07-23-2008, 12:58 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Riding fool you are VIC!!! You should think about a trans country trip. FLY & RIDE!!!
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