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Old 08-07-2006, 06:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Gap on NGK Iridium plugs

Bought two of these plugs yesterday for my 01 EG. Just wanted to try something different. Noticed that the gap wasn't at .040". Matter of fact the gap was something like .030" or just slightly more. Whats the deal, is that the correct gap for these plugs or should I regap them to .040". thanks and keepem sharp
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Old 08-07-2006, 09:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I use these plugs in my 04 train, 1mm gap. dont forget to use copper grease when you torque em down.
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Old 08-07-2006, 11:54 AM   #3 (permalink)
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What's copper grease? Didn't use it. Didn't mention it on the box at all. These weren't gapped at 1mm but .030" or there abouts. I bent the electrode back to .040". keepem sharp
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Old 08-07-2006, 12:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Where did you find the NGK Iridium's?? None of the autoparts stores, nor the metric dealers carry these. J&P doesn't either. Is part number DCPR7EIX the correct plug??
ALWAYS use copper antisieze on spark plugs!!
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Old 08-07-2006, 12:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tallyclassic
Where did you find the NGK Iridium's?? None of the autoparts stores, nor the metric dealers carry these. J&P doesn't either. Is part number DCPR7EIX the correct plug??
ALWAYS use copper antisieze on spark plugs!!
Here's where I get 'em: http://www.sparkplugs.com/
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klondike
What's copper grease? Didn't use it. Didn't mention it on the box at all. These weren't gapped at 1mm but .030" or there abouts. I bent the electrode back to .040". keepem sharp

NGK site says .040......

NGK IX iridium 6046 DCPR7EIX .040 TC88

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Old 08-07-2006, 01:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Be very careful with how you gap them. You can break the tip as it is very fine. Be sure to use a ground strap tool to open the gap and light taps on a hard surface to close it. See the pic.
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Old 08-07-2006, 06:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I didn't have a problem opening the gap when I took them back to show the vendor. I just used the little round gapper they had by the counter. But I made sure he knew they were't the correct gap even though his computer said they should be .040". I bought them at Parts Plus, I think that is the name of the store. I have also read that you shouldn't use any type of anti sieze on spark plugs as they already have it in the metal threads when the plugs are made. Read that on V twin cafe. Can't say I notice any difference in the bike on how it runs. keepem sharp

PS paid 6 bucks apiece for them.

Last edited by klondike; 08-07-2006 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 08-07-2006, 07:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klondike
What's copper grease? Didn't use it. Didn't mention it on the box at all. These weren't gapped at 1mm but .030" or there abouts. I bent the electrode back to .040". keepem sharp
Sorry, 1mm is about 0.039", and copper grease is an anti seize, I've use it for over 25 years, if you dont use it there is a risk that the plugs will seize into the heads. Google it.

Last edited by WildBill2566; 08-07-2006 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 08-07-2006, 07:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duoglide_62
Be very careful with how you gap them. You can break the tip as it is very fine. Be sure to use a ground strap tool to open the gap and light taps on a hard surface to close it. See the pic.
Indeed....I broke the tip the first time I tried to open the gap on one.

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Old 08-07-2006, 09:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I had to regap my new NGK's also. I have since gone to the ND Iridium U-groove plugs, they have a finer center electrode, and I noticed my bike starts easier and idles smoother. The NGK's only had a couple thousand miles on them, and they looked very good. I bought both from sparkplugs.com out of San Diego, CA. Yes, use a good anti-sieze on the threads, and replace them on a cold engine too. I also use a little bit of dielectric grease inside the plug wire terminals to eliminate corrosion, also good for the battery terminals and all electrical connectors, and it great on your boat trailer wiring! Also torque to proper specs.
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Old 08-08-2006, 06:01 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Nearly forgot, if using anti seize or any lubricant on a thread where not specified use the lowest torque value stated as lubrication of any kind on a thread will have an effect on the co-efficient of friction between the male and female counterpart. What this means is that for any given torque value, you will be tightening the part more than specified.

I only found this out a short while ago and have never had any problems even with total engine rebuilds, but then I always used a middle value where a range of torque values was given. But as stated I now use the lower of the two given in a range.
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