Do I need to change my cams? : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

03FXDL · 01-18-2005, 09:12 PM

OK guys, I need the thoughts of some experienced tuners on cam selection... (I know, once again for the umpteenth time...)

I have an 03 FXDL with stock gearing, stock carb, stock cams, stage 1 air cleaner, bored to 95", Lawlor Scotsman's heads, and soon to have WB E-series header. Even with the current slipon mufflers the bike feels very strong through the whole RPM range. The question I have is: How much am I hurting my performance with the stock cams? I don't want to give up the low end, but if I can pick noticeable gains mid to high without killing the low I would be interested.

ShakyJake · 01-18-2005, 09:39 PM

I would look into a mid-lift cam. If you do not care who makes it check out nightrider.com they have the specs on just about every cam on the market. I am certain you will get plenty of responses on here.

HDMD88 · 01-18-2005, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03FXDL

OK guys, I need the thoughts of some experienced tuners on cam selection... (I know, once again for the umpteenth time...)

I have an 03 FXDL with stock gearing, stock carb, stock cams, stage 1 air cleaner, bored to 95", Lawlor Scotsman's heads, and soon to have WB E-series header. Even with the current slipon mufflers the bike feels very strong through the whole RPM range. The question I have is: How much am I hurting my performance with the stock cams? I don't want to give up the low end, but if I can pick noticeable gains mid to high without killing the low I would be interested.

You are losing a great deal of power. If the heads are flowed to breath more air and the stock cam is chopping that air off before the head capability is used up you are losing power. Its like taking a trained runner and putting duct tape over his mouth, poke a small hole in the tape, and tell him to run his best. Well he won't run his best because you took his breath away. If your heads can breath better you HAVE to have a cam that will complament the heads by keeping the valves open longer to get more air in the combustion chamber. More air more power ....bottom line.
Now as far as giving up power on the bottom end....there is always a trade off, but if you get a good cam, like 37b, tw6h, etc. you will gain enough to make you smile VERY big from the bottom to the top of your rpm range.

Ed Y · 01-18-2005, 10:24 PM

Be careful. For a lot of people, once they start, they can't stop.

03FXDL · 01-18-2005, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Y

Be careful. For a lot of people, once they start, they can't stop.

My start was about 20 years ago on a Suzuki GS1100 which I wound up "tuning" until it was useless on the street, but it sure was a helluva lot of fun at the strip.

Prior to my current FXDL I had an 01 Lightning X1 tweaked to make 115HP. So the FXDL did seem anemic at first (leading to the big-bore and heads). But really, I'm just looking well-mannered cruiser that can pull it's own weight.

Seahag · 01-19-2005, 12:49 AM

Hey FXDL...don't mean to steal the thread (sounds like you've got the good answers already anyway)...but I LOVE your avatar! I picked that same art out to be my first tattoo....problem is they said it'd cost me $650.00 and every time I get near that much money, I buy something for the bike or take a trip on it

Someday.....

Road Bag · 01-20-2005, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03FXDL

OK guys, I need the thoughts of some experienced tuners on cam selection... (I know, once again for the umpteenth time...)

I have an 03 FXDL with stock gearing, stock carb, stock cams, stage 1 air cleaner, bored to 95", Lawlor Scotsman's heads, and soon to have WB E-series header. Even with the current slipon mufflers the bike feels very strong through the whole RPM range. The question I have is: How much am I hurting my performance with the stock cams? I don't want to give up the low end, but if I can pick noticeable gains mid to high without killing the low I would be interested.

A great analogy from the Doc. I just installed a 37G. Increased power everywhere even with stock heads. With your heads the increase will be huge. Or as the Rock says, 10-12 HP.

HDMD88 · 01-20-2005, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Road Bag

A great analogy from the Doc. I just installed a 37G. Increased power everywhere even with stock heads. With your heads the increase will be huge. Or as the Rock says, 10-12 HP.

Be carefull using that line.....Grock charges me every time I use it....I now say 10 to 15 hp just so my bill doesn't go any higher than it is...... :p

GRock · 01-20-2005, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hdmd88

Be carefull using that line.....Grock charges me every time I use it....I now say 10 to 15 hp just so my bill doesn't go any higher than it is...... :p

It's the "on the table" part that triggers the invoice. You guys wriggled your way out.

Road Bag · 01-20-2005, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GRock

It's the "on the table" part that triggers the invoice. You guys wriggled your way out.

It was stupid and wrong of me to pass the torch of knowlege so recklessly with out showing due re$pect to its origin. Just trying to share the

love with my brother.I promise to be more carefull. Thanks for the freebie!

03FXDL · 01-20-2005, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Road Bag

A great analogy from the Doc. I just installed a 37G. Increased power everywhere even with stock heads. With your heads the increase will be huge. Or as the Rock says, 10-12 HP.

Thanks for the suggestion. That's actually the one I was leaning toward. 10-12 is big. I don't think I can swing the gear-driven setup. Just don't have the duckets.

So I pony up $250 for the cams, $100 for pushrods, and a few hours in the garage, and viola! Of course I'm still scraping up the bucks for the E-series...

HDMD88 · 01-20-2005, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03FXDL

Thanks for the suggestion. That's actually the one I was leaning toward. 10-12 is big. I don't think I can swing the gear-driven setup. Just don't have the duckets.

So I pony up $250 for the cams, $100 for pushrods, and a few hours in the garage, and viola! Of course I'm still scraping up the bucks for the E-series...

Save the $100.00 on the push rods and use your stock ones. Now I want 10% ..... :p

03FXDL · 01-20-2005, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hdmd88

Save the $100.00 on the push rods and use your stock ones. Now I want 10% ..... :p

I was under the impression that aftermarket cams require adjustable pushrods. From your remark I take it I am mistaken...

GRock · 01-20-2005, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Road Bag

It was stupid and wrong of me to pass the torch of knowlege so recklessly with out showing due re$pect to its origin. Just trying to share the

love with my brother.I promise to be more carefull. Thanks for the freebie!

No, you're cool RB. You wrote as Rock says. Thats all I ask.

Now as for the Doc. Well he has published two books, is a contributor to several magazines, has become head professor at one school and is opening his own this year. Even did a book signing tour that took him right by my house and what did I get for allowing him to plagiarise my rantings? Not even a signed picture. Actually he did e-mail me and scolded me for swearing once.

@#!$*^&*$ cheap old coot!!!

And another thing RB. Your garage is NOT bigger than mine!
There, now I got everything off my chest.

Rats! Now my head hurts. Time for a nap.

HDMD88 · 01-20-2005, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03FXDL

I was under the impression that aftermarket cams require adjustable pushrods. From your remark I take it I am mistaken...

As long as the base circle is the same as stock...( and I'm sure yours is unless you have a Red Shift, Sifton, Line webber cam ) and there isn't more that .040 milled off the heads you will be fine with the stock push rods. Now I want 15% of that $100.00 savings.... :p I use the stock rods as muchas I can....I feel they are stronger than adjustables...The adjuster is a weak spot and it flexes there under heavy spring load.