If I were you, I would just plan to replace the OEM tensioner shoes with the CYCO tensioner replacement.
Adustable pushrods is your call but it's not that much work to remove the tank, rocker box cover and loosen the rocker supports to R/R the OEM pushrods from the top. Adds an hour to the job but saves $150; your call.
You can use the "oven/freezer" method to install new outer cam bearings and cams. Heat the outer cam bearings in the oven, put the cams in the freezer over night; the bearings will drop onto the cam shafts. Let the assembly cool but repeat; put the cam/bearing assembly in the freezer over night; heat the cam plate in the oven for about 30 minutes and the cams will drop right into the cam plate. Just have to mark the timing dots on the back of the cam sprockets so you are sure they are aligned when you drop them in. Have done it many times.
You should replace the inner cam bearings as well. Autozone will loan a blind hole puller and collet to remove the inner bearings. Install the new bearings using one of the old cam shafts. Freeze the bearings over night, wipe the bearing cage and bearing bore with assembly lube and they bump right in; numbers facing out.
You can buy everything, except the CYCO parts from the dealer or save yourself 20% and order from an online discount HD dealer. The SE inner cam bearings PN24017-10 are full compliment bearings, not the OEM INA bearings. SE Premium Tapered Quick Install pushrod set PN18404-08 includes pushrods, tubes, clips and all o-rings; it's a complete set.
You are running the "B" lifters; the best that the MoCo has made and at 17K miles; no need to change them. Just mark them as you remove them and put them back in the same bore.
You will need a service manual; a must have tool.
You should look into a fuel management system. Many on this forum like the Dobeck TFI and, for nothing more than Stage I and cams; it will get the job done.
There are many options and certainly if you want to buy the specialty tools, by all means do so. However, if looking for ways to save money, there are other ways to skin the cat.
Some may tell you to 86 the early cam plate and upgrade to the new hydraulic setup and you can certainly do that as well. However, the early OEM cam plate and pump are more than adequate for a mild cam upgrade. I would install the Baisley pressure relief valve spring in the OEM cam plate to give low rpm oil pressure a boost.
Apologies for being long winded but a cam change is not difficult and I like to encourage guys to man up and take on projects like this. Basic tools, average mechanical skills, service manual and patience is all it takes.