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Old 12-12-2012, 11:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Tensioner check

I ordered a gasket and donut for the exhaust to check the wear to the cam chain tensioner. If I find its worn and needs to be replaced, what would I need to do the job? As far as parts go, S&S adjustable push rods, so I don't have to remove the rockers? While in that far, new lifters also? Also are there any improved tensioner material if I want to keep the same system and not go to the hydraulic or gear system? I think I read some were that there was a much better tensioner made out of some material that took the pressure and heat better. If I do this does anyone have a list of parts needed, and maybe even a list of parts to just go ahead and install if are in that far? Thanks for any help.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
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What's the year and mileage of the scooter?
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jammer45u View Post
What's the year and mileage of the scooter?
2005 FXDLi

Mileage is 17k I ordered the gasket and donut for the exhaust and next oil change 20k I am going to take off the cover to inspect it. If it looks good I will leave it alone and just inspect it in another 10k. If not I may have to replace it. I watched this video and it looks like I will need a set of S&S adjustable pushrods, so I dont' have to remove the rockers, and I may as well replace the lifters if I have it that far down, and possibly the cams. So I would need the cam puller and pusher tool.

I was wondering if a guy could rent that tool? I have seen places on line that rent out tools you need rarely for 20 or 30 bucks for a week. I saw a place that rented a Glock sight pusher that runs about 300 for 25 bucks for a week plus shipping. This video was a lot of help in understanding the job.

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Old 12-12-2012, 12:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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That video shows the new hydraulic chain tensioners. Your bike has different style, spring tensioners. They are basically a coiled steel spring holding constant tension on the cam chains.

The spring tensioners installed in your bike are a lot more problematic than the hydraulic. While some tensioners went many thousands of miles without problem, many failed around 20 to 30,000 miles. HD changed over to hydraulic in 2007.

Hopefully you will find your tensioner shoes in good shape. Caution, the rear is tough to inspect but take the time and effort to do it right. Just because the outer shoe is good does not mean the inner is as well.

If you decide to replace you'll have decisions to make. The search function on this site will be your friend. Ton's of info on cam chain tensioners, read up on it and pick the course that's right for you.

Whatever way you decide make sure you replace the bearings.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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do not order your cam bearings in the kit , because thay will sell you the crap bearning that cause's all the proplems . order the bearings separate and get the good s and s bearing
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If I were you, I would just plan to replace the OEM tensioner shoes with the CYCO tensioner replacement.

http://www.harleydavidsontensioner.com/

Adustable pushrods is your call but it's not that much work to remove the tank, rocker box cover and loosen the rocker supports to R/R the OEM pushrods from the top. Adds an hour to the job but saves $150; your call.

You can use the "oven/freezer" method to install new outer cam bearings and cams. Heat the outer cam bearings in the oven, put the cams in the freezer over night; the bearings will drop onto the cam shafts. Let the assembly cool but repeat; put the cam/bearing assembly in the freezer over night; heat the cam plate in the oven for about 30 minutes and the cams will drop right into the cam plate. Just have to mark the timing dots on the back of the cam sprockets so you are sure they are aligned when you drop them in. Have done it many times.

You should replace the inner cam bearings as well. Autozone will loan a blind hole puller and collet to remove the inner bearings. Install the new bearings using one of the old cam shafts. Freeze the bearings over night, wipe the bearing cage and bearing bore with assembly lube and they bump right in; numbers facing out.

You can buy everything, except the CYCO parts from the dealer or save yourself 20% and order from an online discount HD dealer. The SE inner cam bearings PN24017-10 are full compliment bearings, not the OEM INA bearings. SE Premium Tapered Quick Install pushrod set PN18404-08 includes pushrods, tubes, clips and all o-rings; it's a complete set.

You are running the "B" lifters; the best that the MoCo has made and at 17K miles; no need to change them. Just mark them as you remove them and put them back in the same bore.

You will need a service manual; a must have tool.

You should look into a fuel management system. Many on this forum like the Dobeck TFI and, for nothing more than Stage I and cams; it will get the job done.

There are many options and certainly if you want to buy the specialty tools, by all means do so. However, if looking for ways to save money, there are other ways to skin the cat.

Some may tell you to 86 the early cam plate and upgrade to the new hydraulic setup and you can certainly do that as well. However, the early OEM cam plate and pump are more than adequate for a mild cam upgrade. I would install the Baisley pressure relief valve spring in the OEM cam plate to give low rpm oil pressure a boost.

Apologies for being long winded but a cam change is not difficult and I like to encourage guys to man up and take on projects like this. Basic tools, average mechanical skills, service manual and patience is all it takes.
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Old 12-20-2012, 01:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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1999 FXDWG --- 25000 miles. I do all my service and did not know about the tensioners until this forum (good forum). I was going all the way with new beaings and and everything you need for the upgrade. I opened it up yesterday and the tensioners, front and back looked new. No grooves, not pits, smooth all the way across. I sowed it back up and will check them later.

James Lee - TN
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djl View Post
If I were you, I would just plan to replace the OEM tensioner shoes with the CYCO tensioner replacement.

http://www.harleydavidsontensioner.com/

Adustable pushrods is your call but it's not that much work to remove the tank, rocker box cover and loosen the rocker supports to R/R the OEM pushrods from the top. Adds an hour to the job but saves $150; your call.

You can use the "oven/freezer" method to install new outer cam bearings and cams. Heat the outer cam bearings in the oven, put the cams in the freezer over night; the bearings will drop onto the cam shafts. Let the assembly cool but repeat; put the cam/bearing assembly in the freezer over night; heat the cam plate in the oven for about 30 minutes and the cams will drop right into the cam plate. Just have to mark the timing dots on the back of the cam sprockets so you are sure they are aligned when you drop them in. Have done it many times.

You should replace the inner cam bearings as well. Autozone will loan a blind hole puller and collet to remove the inner bearings. Install the new bearings using one of the old cam shafts. Freeze the bearings over night, wipe the bearing cage and bearing bore with assembly lube and they bump right in; numbers facing out.

You can buy everything, except the CYCO parts from the dealer or save yourself 20% and order from an online discount HD dealer. The SE inner cam bearings PN24017-10 are full compliment bearings, not the OEM INA bearings. SE Premium Tapered Quick Install pushrod set PN18404-08 includes pushrods, tubes, clips and all o-rings; it's a complete set.

You are running the "B" lifters; the best that the MoCo has made and at 17K miles; no need to change them. Just mark them as you remove them and put them back in the same bore.

You will need a service manual; a must have tool.

You should look into a fuel management system. Many on this forum like the Dobeck TFI and, for nothing more than Stage I and cams; it will get the job done.

There are many options and certainly if you want to buy the specialty tools, by all means do so. However, if looking for ways to save money, there are other ways to skin the cat.

Some may tell you to 86 the early cam plate and upgrade to the new hydraulic setup and you can certainly do that as well. However, the early OEM cam plate and pump are more than adequate for a mild cam upgrade. I would install the Baisley pressure relief valve spring in the OEM cam plate to give low rpm oil pressure a boost.

Apologies for being long winded but a cam change is not difficult and I like to encourage guys to man up and take on projects like this. Basic tools, average mechanical skills, service manual and patience is all it takes.
well said. I have used several sets of the cyco tensioner. Easy job to install.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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djl,

Had I not purchased the parts to convert to hydraulic and the high volume pump I would have only replaced the tensioners with the cyco setup and installed the Baisley spring. Would have saved me $$$ and probably been just as good.

The only benefit I see to the newer pump and plate is the reduction of "possible oil sumping " in the crankcase. My oil was pretty frothy. It will probably be the same after I install the new parts this weekend.
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