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Old 11-04-2012, 09:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Wild Thing Cams

Anyone have experience with the TC-26D Cams in a 103?
Interested in the Drivability?
Specs look to be good runner on top.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't personally have experience with them but....I know a guy.......
Seriously, my buddy did have those cams and his 103 made 117 lb/ft and 113 hp. It was a real runner. He had Short Block Charlie heads and his compression was around 10.5 he said. I DID see the dyno sheet. His bike was the talk of the town around here five years ago.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Good cams but the headwork has to match up. Not all head porters have the recipe for those cams. Split pattern profile with longer exhaust duration; will make good HP but if heads aren't right, will be soft on the bottom. For best results, use Wild Things heads with WT cams but Bob Wright, John Sachs and WFO Larry have worked heads to match those cams.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Really!
Would these heads work? They have a 2" intake and a 1.61 exhaust. They are destined to go on a 107" with Feuling 574 cams.
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Last edited by nw_guy4_fun; 11-04-2012 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Those are very good low lift numbers Don from what I have seen while still making very good numbers at 600 lift. Should work GREAT I would think with the cams/lift mentioned. -Tutt
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nw_guy4_fun View Post
Really!
Would these heads work? They have a 2" intake and a 1.61 exhaust. They are destined to go on a 107" with Feuling 574 cams.
__________________
2008 Road Glide
Phoenix Customs Bagger Brace
Glide Pro
Clearview windshield
107
CP flat tops
R&R Stage 3 heads, .030 gasket, 82cc chambers
Trued, welded, and balanced crank by Hyperformance
TMan 590 cams
SE AC
HPI 54mm TB
Supermeg with open cap and 15 discs
TTS tune by BVBob


2003 Indian Scout Deluxe
Aspen White (got it for my wife)
S&S "SuperStock" 88"
12" apes
Scary fast!
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Rather than screw with second hand regurgitated rhetoric let's see what the man himself told me 4/4/2008

"The important thing to remember when porting for the street is never give away low and mid lift flows in favor of high lift flows. You can have both with the right work. I have seen some of the heads that did not work with our cams and kill the low lift flows is what they had done. This is especially bad on the exhaust side. A lot of porters ruin the exhaust port and then have to run a large exhaust lobe to make up for it. "
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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To the OP:
Without getting too technical that cam will work well in the 103" when coupled with the right compression, about 10.6:1. They have smooth low speed manors and a quiet idle. Valve train noise is very low relative to other performance grinds. They pull hard and long when combined with good breathing heads (see Mikes notes I quoted) and a large TB.

Many not just a few head porters "get" how to accomplish this. A functioning scavenging pipe is essential. They will not have massive torque right off idle (pump and dump so to speak) but build gradually and hold on at the top.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nw_guy4_fun View Post
Really!
Would these heads work? They have a 2" intake and a 1.61 exhaust. They are destined to go on a 107" with Feuling 574 cams.
Don, do you disagree that head porting for the WT cams is a bit different than for other cams? Do you disagree that not all head porters get the difference?

The quote from MR makes that point
I have seen some of the heads that did not work with our cams and kill the low lift flows is what they had done.

I don't know how many or which head porters know how to port for the WT cams; I just named a few. I guess I should have included you as well; my bad. At one time, BW was the go to guy for head work for the WT cams but that was a while back; I guess more have learned the trick.

BTW, the 107" MTC setup is holding up well. I just finished installing the Twist Gear and the old FLHT is a lot of fun. I still haven't gotten her on Mike's dyno for a tune; just a couple of low level pulls to check AFR but sometime before the end of the year I will get her on for a full on tune. I am thinking about a couple of changes first and would like your thoughts, so look for an email.

Last edited by djl; 11-05-2012 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Input and advise is greatly appreciated from all.
Goal would be to keep the stock size valves.
Just find the right valves that flow accordingly.
Sounds of it Velocity is crucial at lower and Mid valve lift,
as would be with any street project one would guess.
Low speed manors Def important.
Best advise given earlier here witnessed is Over worked Exh ports
really kills the deal.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I am not sure this cam is for you unless you will be spending the funds it takes to make the heads work properly and get all the rest of the parts matched including a custom tune. The headwork is not a buff and fluff with stock valves or even stock sizes, not that the ports need to be huge either just proper proportions and flowing well.
A proven combo in your late model 103 that might satisfy you with no head work at all such as a cam change to a S&S 551 or Andrews 48 a good pipe and tune
Please define what you want out of the bike, your budget and what typical type of rides and payload you carry.
Thanks
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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When I chose my engine build after consulting with my head builder, I picked out a cam that met his approval. After that, he built the heads including valve sizes, chamber size, port size and even TB size to create the optimal situation for that camshaft. I had to go through some different pipes and tuners (if I had had a better tuner the first time I would not have needed another pipe!) and could have saved some money.

But Don's point is the same. You really need to build the heads (and choose the pistons) around the cam. If you can't afford to do that, then pick something else out like he has suggested.

Its a funny thing about hot rodding bikes. You probably get 80-90% of the power increases from simple upgrades that are cost effective. But that last 10-15% increase, the cost goes up exponentially. Its that last 10-15% that requires proper head work for your application, a good TB port matched, a good exhaust and a good tune.

Its more cost effective, if your paying someone for the labor, to "do it right the first time" rather than do it in stages. However, there are ways to plan ahead as well, and include upgrades as you go. It will cost more money overall, but it will be in increments over a long period of time. For some people, this is more economically feasable.

Just trying to help out here. I'm dreaming of some upgrades for my ride too. But what I have works really well and all I'm looking for is refinement of my original 103 build, not a "do-over". What I have just works too well for me to start all over.

Hope that helps in some way.

Regards,

Tutt
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Truely many get sold horsepower but really wanted just improved torque. The shorter pump and dump cams can do that and a cam is as easy as falling out of bed to change and not a lot of money for the late models.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Completely understand there is a True art to the Higher end performance in any package.Heads will make or break the build,as will many other parts.
The reason for the original question is of coarse the drivability.
Probably the most overlooked part of a lot of builds.
Was one of those folks who has been sold the right side of the paper.
Since it has turned into a pass time,
No issues with the proper Cyl head work
access to a dyno and good tune is not a problem.
The funds for the build much of the same.
Have tried many of the Pump and Dump quick sticks.Many impressive.
Have also tried some of the larger valves.
Even ventured into some different rocker ratios.
Goal is nice quiet valve train,smooth roll on power,Stock valve size,Bike is a SG.
Totally agree the larger valves make more power peak.
Looking for a nice lower to mid throttle position driver that will still pull Ok up top
Most of the shorter durations loose there legs in the higher RPMs.
The TC26 looks to have a bit of both on paper.
Once again input has been appreciated Folks.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:23 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok, in that case I see no reason not to run it. Larger valves are not a deal breaker but will hinder the potential of these cams. A larger intake does not hurt low and and midrange contrary to popular beliefs, it is the port connected to that valve that has the potential to do that.
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