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Old 11-03-2012, 02:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Andy we are on the same page but we can talk those theories until the cows come home and I agree these factors are all relevant but really when a motor is engineered as as assembly by compentent mechanical engineers that have access to tools equal to or better than than OEM (read between the lines S&S) they result works, usually, there is a high probability of success lets just say. I know of many S&S 124" motors with higher miles that run every day, no screwing around. They will make 130 out of the box or more with just ahead mill. Variants of the 120r are right there too.

Then an end user takes well engineered parts and creates their own version of something that is supposed to be the street sweeper of all time and what happens? IME and what I have observed after being on these forums since 2001 usually anything from poor to fair results most of the time and then occasionally a home run. Considering the effort involved to be different and the money invested one has to wonder if it is really worth it?
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Don, from what I have been reading, there are a lot of milling and clearances that need to be checked with a 124" and I would agree I think I would only use a well established kit like the S&S or someone who is VERY familiar with making larger cubic inch engines. I can see how if you keep the redline at an appropriate level that a 4 5/8ths crank assembly should be OK. I myself would not choose to reinvent the wheel and would start with a combination that is pretty well proven. However, Mother is used to a high rpm build and the 124 probably isn't because it doesn't NEED to be!

I think Mother might be happier with the shorter stroke of the 117 myself and its higher rpm ceiling.

Thanks as always for your input. I think for me someday I will stick to my tentative plan to make mine a 107 with some simple upgrades as I'm very happy with what I have. It doesn't seem to over-stress my stock transmission and driveline (I did seriously upgrade the clutch however!).

Thanks! -Tutt
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:19 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Dead on right, Don. Trying to be different can turn into a science project. I think the S&S 124 is THE way to go with all the amenities it comes with and the warranty to boot. Of course this is just my opinion on the two choices posed here.

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Old 11-03-2012, 04:54 PM   #19 (permalink)
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What do people typically set their redline to on a S&S 124" build? There is usually some recommended standard. For example, most people with 103 and 107's typically use 6250 as a limit. Mine is 6300 and sees it pretty regularly and my engine runs out of breath beyond that so no need to go further.

I appreciate the intelligent dialog on the subject here and not the derisive innuendo that takes place on the HTT forum. I guess people are just better behaved over here.

Thanks.

-Tutt
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:38 PM   #20 (permalink)
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..I have been wrenchin for 25 years and I understand that a 4", 4 3/8", and a 4 5/8" stroke have different rpm ceiling.
Andy youre right, I am on the fence between 117 and 124. The reason? Working rpm range!
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:44 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Thanks Bro! I appreciate it!!! Nice to know I'm not alone out here. -Andy
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:04 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Now about that lightened crank assembly for more responsiveness.....



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Old 11-03-2012, 06:30 PM   #23 (permalink)
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You can run the pork chop flywheels but you're splitting hairs here. You'll pay for that extra tenth it might shave off your 1/4 mile time.

How tight you wind it comes down to how you set up the valve train. Throw in some good lifters, heavy springs and a set of .165 wall pushrods and rev it to 7 grand.

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Old 11-03-2012, 06:41 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Couldn't care less about the 1/4 mile time. I'm no drag racer. Roll on acceleration does matter to me however as I'm a "reformed" sport bike guy who bought a Harley and never looked back. For most people, it would not be beneficial but for me and my small 103 or 107 some day, it would be. -Tutt
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:13 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
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..I have been wrenchin for 25 years and I understand that a 4", 4 3/8", and a 4 5/8" stroke have different rpm ceiling.
Andy youre right, I am on the fence between 117 and 124. The reason? Working rpm range!
outside of the box ? All bore 120
4" stroke 4.375 bore 8 " rod. Hurricane heads.
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:18 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Dear Jim, might be a bit much on the bore! What you got for a recommendation with a 4.25 stroke and what bore? What cases? Mine is sadly an 09 TC. I am listening! -Tutt
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:25 PM   #27 (permalink)
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delete.........

Last edited by INDEPENDENT 1; 11-03-2012 at 07:27 PM. Reason: I digress
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:01 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Independent one, I appreciate your comments. Maybe just PM me if your more comfortable.

Regards,

-Tutt
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:10 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Dear Jim, might be a bit much on the bore! What you got for a recommendation with a 4.25 stroke and what bore? What cases? Mine is sadly an 09 TC. I am listening! -Tutt
I dont have any idea who makes a 4.250 crank for a T/C

Quote:
And I think that R&R heads run cooler too.
Cooler than what? come on tutt,you know better than that.
next thing you know ,someone will say they spool up faster too.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:11 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Thanks, Cowboy. Just not sure what to say here, this thread/build seems to be a little all over the place. I guess we'll see where it goes from here. On another note, I did get a Fang pipe in earlier today. Now I'm waiting on the engine and throttle body. Good luck with your build, Mother. Let us know how it turns out.
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