Built motor: Oil consumption

[qtrracer]

They safety wire your oil fill and your drain plug so it effectively seals your motor so no oil can be removed or added during a set period of time or miles to measure oil consumption without any interference by the user. You would bring it to their shop and they do what I have described and when the period ends you would return to their shop then they would unseal the oil fill and check the level.

[dog155]

Made that mistake back in the early 80's with new Shovel head trying to break in with synthetic oil.Motor always smoked a little changed over to AeroShell hoping it would seat the rings no luck had to redo the rings.After that and breakin with dino oil motor was fine.

Originally Posted by PR3VS56

That's what I thought, and the experience I was looking for. This is my 3rd Harley, and I've NEVER added oil between changes.

Builder has the bike now, and giving me static about the repair. He quoted Harley's 1 qt/1,000 miles on factory motors as support for why I should accept it as is.

No I didn't hot-rod it, my gf was on the back the whole way. It wasn't even that hot this year. 95% of the time it was cruise control.

Builder did a compression ck 185psi both cyls, and a leakdown 8% front 4% rear. He said the leakdown indicates rings are good. That means guides, right?

I don't know the piston or ring gap, but I shouldn't have to. For the price I paid for this motor I shouldn't be using this volume of oil. 9500 miles on the build (about 5,500 when I left for Sturgis). It's been using oil since new.

Breakin was first with SYN3 @ the builder, then SYN3 again after the dyno (before leaving his shop). First change after that was at 1,500 with Shell Rotella 10/40 dyno oil (builder's recommendation). I changed to Redline 20/50 synthetic next because it was a little noisy and using some oil. I thought the Redline would be better than Rotella. The builder was blaming Redline for the problems until I pointed out that he broke it in with SYN3.

The bike is at his shop, and I'm standing firm on the need to fix this problem. Just wanted to poll the VTF to make sure I wasn't being unreasonable.

.

[PR3VS56]

Originally Posted by qtrracer

They safety wire your oil fill and your drain plug so it effectively seals your motor so no oil can be removed or added during a set period of time or miles to measure oil consumption without any interference by the user. You would bring it to their shop and they do what I have described and when the period ends you would return to their shop then they would unseal the oil fill and check the level.

I understand how safety wires work, but how do I put a safety wire through oil fill and drain plug and make it tamper proof? I'd have to drill a hole through each, right? And if he's so paranoid that I'm making all this up, or doesn't believe that I poured 2 qts of oil into my crankcase while on tour, what's to stop me from removing the safety wires during this "test"? Not to mention the oil filter. I don't get it.

Anyone ever heard of such a thing? I asked Geoff to give me procedures to follow... no response. This is nuts. The guy should just own up to his problem and fix it.


.

[qtrracer]

Originally Posted by PR3VS56

I understand how safety wires work, but how do I put a safety wire through oil fill and drain plug and make it tamper proof? I'd have to drill a hole through each, right? And if he's so paranoid that I'm making all this up, or doesn't believe that I poured 2 qts of oil into my crankcase while on tour, what's to stop me from removing the safety wires during this "test"? Not to mention the oil filter. I don't get it.

Anyone ever heard of such a thing? I asked Geoff to give me procedures to follow... no response. This is nuts. The guy should just own up to his problem and fix it.


.

They put a seal on the wire so if it is cut you cant reseal it. The process is usually done by the shop that wants to verify the oil usage not the bikes owner. They drill an oil fill cap and drain plug to install in your motor. After the process is over your unmolested oil fill cap and/or drain plug is re-installed. They may install a safety wired oil filter at the same time, K&N oil filters are safety wired very easy with the nut on the end.

[nw_guy4_fun]

In 1980 Chevy dealer did the same in Phoenix. My Camaro used a quart in 300 miles. I could not make it home and back without seizing it if I didn't add. Took it down the block at a circle k and planted the gas pedal, now gm had a warranty claim towed in on a hook

[Bad Disposition]

Originally Posted by nw_guy4_fun

In 1980 Chevy dealer did the same in Phoenix. My Camaro used a quart in 300 miles. I could not make it home and back without seizing it if I didn't add. Took it down the block at a circle k and planted the gas pedal, now gm had a warranty claim towed in on a hook

I would have done the same d!!m thing!

BD.

[PR3VS56]

Originally Posted by qtrracer

They put a seal on the wire so if it is cut you cant reseal it. The process is usually done by the shop that wants to verify the oil usage not the bikes owner. They drill an oil fill cap and drain plug to install in your motor. After the process is over your unmolested oil fill cap and/or drain plug is re-installed. They may install a safety wired oil filter at the same time, K&N oil filters are safety wired very easy with the nut on the end.

THANKS!!!


.

[plongson]

Well, let us know how it turns out. If he's not going to stand up for his work, he's not worth the risk. Sounds like a internet horror story.

[PR3VS56]

For the record...

$8,253 for this 96" - 106" build. Excludes cost of clutch and exhaust. This is for MOTOR ONLY + tune.


.

[compressor#v]

Blaming oil is a load of crap. Had a guy that owns a shop in Mich. blame Mobil1 VTwin, said the guy should have used Amsoil.....until I pointed out that Amsoil buys 98% of its base synthetic stock from Mobil Corp.

BTW, Don Dofrman, great job on the 120"

[claydbal]

Take to another slhop
Let them put some miles and diagnose prob.sue da boy with no balls.