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Old 05-29-2012, 07:57 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Uncle Salty is reading this now saying WTF is this?
You may find one locally at a tool house, Sears, etc. Online you will find many outlets selling them, Amazon, Jegs, Summit, Ebay, etc. Starting around $50 and up. Brands include Longacre, OTC, Snap-On, Proform, Moroso, etc. You can build one too, instructions online but you won't save a lot if you have to purchase all of the individual parts.
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:19 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikeslayer View Post
I wouldn't mind doing that leak down test. Anybody know where I can get a tester?
I got mine from Jegs. Don't know if autoparts store loan anything like that but if you dont want to buy one and cant find one close I'm not too far, 45311. Your more than welcome to use it.
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:30 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I got one you can borrow if you wanna swing by Columbus.
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Old 05-30-2012, 04:13 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06roadglide View Post
I got mine from Jegs. Don't know if autoparts store loan anything like that but if you dont want to buy one and cant find one close I'm not too far, 45311. Your more than welcome to use it.
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I got one you can borrow if you wanna swing by Columbus.
Thanks guys! I may hit one of you up a little later to borrow it. I have to do some traveling in the near future, so I may not get back to this for a couple weeks. I'll keep you posted.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:05 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Leak down tester


Ive used some that were commercially available and made my own-Im sure you will find poor ring seal-
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:20 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Well it's getting close to the end of the riding season so I better figure out a plan for this oil puking problem. I'm pretty sure it is excessive blow-by. Guess I'll check leak down.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:40 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Please report on your leak check percentages. FYI I also had excessive oil consumption & blow-by until I made some cyl. changes. Are you getting any pinging with roll-ons? This could also be a symptom of oil getting past the rings & into the combustion chambers.
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:01 PM   #23 (permalink)
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There are single and dual gauge units;the video is showing a single gauge unit. It would appear to someone unfamiliar with leakdown testing that the single gauge units would be easier to operate. However, the single gauge units require particular attention to the inlet pressure, as each gauge will have its own requirement. If the inlet line pressure is too high or too low, the test results will not be accurate.

Some twin-gauge models also require a specific range of inlet pressure, which you read on the first gauge. The second gauge will read a percentage of cylinder leakage. Matco and OTC both make affordable and accurate leak down testers.

By the time you run around and pick up the parts to make the single gauge unit shown in the video, you will have spent half of what it would cost to purchase a solid twin guage unit. JMHO.

Leakdown past a valve should be confirmed by tapping the valve lightly, just to make sure it is fully seated. Everybody wants a 2% leakdown motor but that is unrealistic. Ring leakage of 8%-12% is "normal" and up to 15% is acceptable; if 20% or more, freshen up the top end. Variation from cylinder to cylnder of 5% is normal.

BTW, I run the ET Mini Crank Vents on my 107" and they work well. You cannot eliminate 100% of crank vent mist; rings have gaps. However, if you can maintain a vacuum in the crank case, you will minimize blowby to misting; not puking. That is assuming the top end is healthy.
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:59 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I won't touch what is acceptable leak down, I do have an opinion however.

Fact is blow by will overwhelm the seperators and blow oil out the breathers regardless of design. The OEM breathers work fine except the plastic design used from 2002-2004 roughly.

Regarding rings and oil consumption, it is entirely possible and probable to have no cylinder problems, proper end gaps, decent compression checked and leak down and still use oil by the rings. Second ring is the critical factor.
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Performed the leak down test today. I got 35% on the rear and 55% on the front. This was using the cheap harbor freight unit. Was performed cold. Not sure what to think.
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:06 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Uncle Salty is reading this now saying WTF is this?
Where was the air going? Out the exhaust, breathers, throttle body?
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:22 PM   #27 (permalink)
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How was test performed? Me thinks, the motor might have spun a bit. I use a ratchet strap on the rear brake in gear. With that blowby i dont think it would run well. Or the gauge sucks.
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:49 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Not sure where the air is going. I just wanted to get a rough idea how each cylinder looked. I am suspect as to the test procedure too. The instructions tell you to zero the gage by turning the regulator on the unit up until the "percent" gage reads "set". This results in about 10 psi being used. Difficult to get it to stay at TDC due to the valve train. You are supposed to try to pull all this off when its hot too. I'm starting to question the value of this test. My problem was intermittent, so what are the odds the conditions will all be there while I'm performing this test.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:12 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Don't know if that is the correct way. On my Mac Tools tester I set the inlet psi to 100 and read the leaked psi on the second guage. I use 100 psi because it's easier to do the math (i.e. 100 psi in, 90 on the second=10% leakage).
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:53 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Well I think I'm just going to plan on tearing it down and honing it and re-ringing it. If I see something scarier when I get in there I'll deal with it then. About time for some new lifters, any recommendations?
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