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Old 12-18-2011, 05:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Adjustable pushrods help

Hello all. I am at nearing the end of a 95" build. I have the engine reassembled with all the new components. I got to the new adjustable pushrods and realized its been a long time since I did it. I've forgot how to best adjust them. I would like to also bring attention to the fact that I installed new lifters (stock, just new) when I installed the new cam so I would assume they are bled all the way down. I thought it was acceptable to adjust them to the point that there was no free play up and down and that they could be spun by hand, but I didn't know if I needed to loosen then more to allow for thermal expansion.

Any insight you can lend would be greatly appreciated. Can't wait to button it up and light her off.

Steel
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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"I thought it was acceptable to adjust them to the point that there was no free play up and down and that they could be spun by hand."
You're almost there. By doing what is quoted you are taking the lash out. Then you need to lengthen the pushrods by 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 turns, depending on the number of thread per inch that are on your push rods. For my Screamin' Eagle Tapered adjustables it was 2 1/2 turns. They should feel tight and very difficult to spin, if at all. After you get them turned out the correct amount and tighten the jam nut, let them sit for 15 min. or so. They need time to bleed down. After they have bled down, you should be able to spin them without much effort. You can do the two for one cylinder at the same time. Wait for the bleed down, then rotate the engine and do the other two. If you don't wait for the bleed down and you rotate the engine it is possible for the valves to hit the pistons and/or each other.
Hope this helps.

Dave

Last edited by DaveCarlson; 12-18-2011 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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alright...think I got it. I just didn't know if the new lifters would need to bleed down since they haven't been ran yet.....i'll go down and give it a shot.
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sorry for the repeat.

Last edited by DaveCarlson; 12-18-2011 at 08:41 PM. Reason: repeat
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You might try pulling the plugs and grounding them against the heads. Crank the engine in 5 sec. bursts with about 10 sec. in between each burst. Do this a few times until you see the oil light go out. This will give your oil pump a chance to get the juices flowing and pump up the lifters before you light the fire. Good luck!!

Dave
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Nitram_b4 is reading this now saying WTF is this?
this will give you the idea but depending on the threads per inch on yours you have to adjust
I set mine to .135 to .140 deep
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J01774.pdf
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Dyna Ryda is reading this now saying WTF is this?
trying to attach adjustment guide, not so sure about "bleeding down new lifters" did you soak them in oil?

Last edited by Dyna Ryda; 12-18-2011 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the lifter spring holds it at the extended length while it's sitting still/ not running. Doesn't really matter if the lifter is dry or full of oil. So, during initial install, shorten all pushrods to their shortest length, install, then one cylinder at a time- rotate to TDC on compression stroke, extend rods until they make contact with the lifter and then count/ measure further extention per your manual. Lock the nuts down, give it about 10 min and check to see that you can spin each rod with your fingers. It'll be a bit tight, but not frozen in place. Turn the motor over (5th gear, rear wheel off the ground, turn wheel by hand) and repeat. When all done turn it over by hand again to "proof" that there's no valve/piston contact.
On the initial startup it is helpful to spin the motor a bit- pull plugs, pull wires or however you want to do it. It might clatter a bit, but it'll stop within a few seconds.
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Alright. Got the pushrods adjusted and in. Applied a little loctite to keep the nuts from breaking free. But dammit if my normal luck didn't rear its ugly head. Shop gave me the wrong exhaust system. I realize this is partially on me for not tripple checking the parts guy...but I figured I told him what kind of bike I have enough that he could get it. Next time I will get all the parts #s.... I intended to be running by tomorrow....now I might not be running for quite a few days (i hope not weeks).

I do plan on spinning the engine for a minute to get the oil running before the first fire, unless anyone could tell me why that might be a bad idea. Well...that's my stopping point for now. Thanks for the replies.

Steel
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:19 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Nitram_b4 is reading this now saying WTF is this?
as long as you don't fire it up and run it. It would not even hurt to do that for a few min.
but the exhaust blowing all over everything might not help other parts of the bike
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