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Old 11-13-2010, 01:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Screamin' Eagle hybrid cam plate - questions?

I have a project bike, a 2002 FLHPI.

Today I replaced the old style cam set up with a Screamin' Eagle 25284-08 Billet Hybrid Cam Plate. I did this so I could keep the present chain drive TW21's. I found the instructions a bit unclear

My questions are as follows:

The old rear cam sprocket had a spacer and a shim behind it. The new set up required purchace of a bag of new spacers. It was unclear if I should reuse the shim with the new spacers of not.

I couldn't get good sprocket alignment with the shim, so I left it out and just used a spacer.

Any problem with that?

Also when the rear cam sprocket was finally torqued down, there was a bit of end play in the cam shaft. In other words I could grab the sprocket and move the entire cam shaft a millimeter or so in and out.

Any problem with this?

The end play was considerably less when the hydraulic tensioner was installed but none the less it was still there.

Any advice welcome!

PS. Yes I did change the inner bearings to Torringtons.
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2002 FLHPI: SE Cast 95" Flat tops, Heads by Bean, Stock TB Bored by Hillside, Andrews TW21, Supertrapp SuperMeg 20 disks w/endcap, Jagg Oil Cooler, Glide Pro Stabilizing System, Seat by Mean City, Windshield by Cee-Bailey.

2006 FLSTCI: SE Cast 95" 10.25:1, Super Stock Heads by Dan Baisley, 50mm SE TB, Woods TW6G, D&D Fat Cat with QB, Jagg Oil Cooler, Seat by Mean City, Windshield by Cee-Bailey

Last edited by mfalba; 11-13-2010 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I can only share with you a problem that my indie had yesterday using the same kit on my 02 Ultra. The plate relief valve passage was defective(undersize bore w/stuck valve) and he had zip for oil pressure upon start up.
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:26 AM   #3 (permalink)
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mfa....if you go back with the same chain and sprockets you had in there to begin with...you do not need the spacer kit. I learned the hard way buy purchasing a kit I did not need. I don't recall when they went to the roller chain, but the kit includes the new roller chain and sprockets to convert the front chain from silent to roller. I simply went back in with my silent chain and used my stock sprockets. I would say....use what you have to from the spacer kit package to get alignment.

As far as the lateral "slack" in the rear cam you feel, that sounds a bit fishy. I admit that I did not actually feel that or purposely look for that. I am a bit troubled by that slack, because it seems to me it will allow the chain and sprocket to "wander" in and out a bit. It smells like a damaged rear, or loose bearing to me. When you torque the sprocket down...the spacer presses the inner bearing race, which presses the race against the face of the cam gear. Seems to me that slack could only be bearing slack or that the bearing is not tight in the cam support plate.

With that slack...I don't see how you could be sure that you obtained alignment between the pinion sprocket and the cam drive sprocket.

Might be perfectly normal, but I don't think so. Hopefully....some of the "pro's" will chime in here, but I would not button it up until we know.

I have not had a single issue with mine.
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Old 11-19-2010, 03:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I am glad I caught this so I can pull my own head out of my rear-end. You have to consider that I go back to the early TC rear outer cam bearing failures, which were ball-bearings. The updated version of the rear outer cam bearing is a roller bearing. The outer bearing race is pressed onto the cam journal. I don't know what I was thinking.

Having said this....I don't think the slack is a problem. If everything is bolted-up like it is suppose to be...you should be fine and there may be some slight lateral play....I just don't remember feeling any when I performed my upgrade. I just bolted it all up and run it.

Last edited by 1550vt; 11-19-2010 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 11-01-2013, 12:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Screaming Eagle hydraulic cam tensioner kit

Anybody know if the HD kit contains the outer cam bearings?
Thanks
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Old 11-01-2013, 01:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claydbal View Post
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Old 11-01-2013, 02:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Mine didn't, but it's been several years ago. I believe if you do not want to reuse your bearings....you will need a bearing kit. While you're at it....it's also a good idea to remove the inner cam bearings and replace those with the all-steel-roller Timken/Torrington. You can do all this the old fashion way, if you don't possess the tools or a press. I reused my bearings, since they had already been replaced due to early bearing failure....like thousands and thousands of others. I knew my outer bearings were good.
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1550vt View Post
Mine didn't, but it's been several years ago. I believe if you do not want to reuse your bearings....you will need a bearing kit. While you're at it....it's also a good idea to remove the inner cam bearings and replace those with the all-steel-roller Timken/Torrington. You can do all this the old fashion way, if you don't possess the tools or a press. I reused my bearings, since they had already been replaced due to early bearing failure....like thousands and thousands of others. I knew my outer bearings were good.
You do know this thread/topic was started roughly 3 years ago and likely his project was done lonnnng ago right?
The shared knowledge is good and welcomed but i was just commenting......
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I was responding to post #6. Looks like the poster is a new member. Read it again....it says TODAY........right?

All I know is that I received an e-mail message reporting a new posting on this thread. Threads don't "expire". Often.....people will post to an aged thread because it pertains to the topic they seek information about.
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:27 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Yep. Inner and outer bearings.
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