Rejet kit, Is it that easy....? : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

millertime63 · 06-12-2003, 12:07 AM

I will be picking up my FLSTF in 2 weeks and I plan to put Python pipes on after 500 miles. Just want to know what the difference is, that's why I am waiting to make the change in pipes to know stock vs Pythons.

I have read many threads on rejetting and completing with a stage 1 kit with some great info and instructions as to others doing this on their own.

I am a bit nervous with some information on drilling out the plug on the carb and performing the rejet myself. What I have read makes it seem easy....Is it that easy..? Don't want to #*%@ up a new carb....

Any advice...? I like to wrench and build things but this is my first HD.

twincamzz · 06-12-2003, 06:13 AM

Yep, it's this easy... http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm

Ed Y · 06-12-2003, 08:32 AM

Not anxious about anything, are you, Twincamzz??

Millertime63:

Here's another option. Pick up a copy of American Rider, Aguust 03 issue. There is an article in it by Joe Minton, a long time carb tuner and HD wrench. It has some good info.

ksims1868 · 06-12-2003, 11:50 AM

It really is VERY simple. Once the plug is drilled out it is as simple as removing a screw and putting one back in. That's it.

twincamzz · 06-12-2003, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ed Y
Not anxious about anything, are you, Twincamzz??

Who me ?? I feel like a long-tailed cat in a room full of rockin' chairs !

To make matters worse, my wife announced last night that she has all her stuff packed & ready to go ! Finally ! Too bad we can't leave today !!

Flyer · 06-12-2003, 12:49 PM

Here's a tip to save ya some aggravation.
The screws that hold the float bowl to the carb body are made of soft brass????....(or sumethin).....anyways one wrong twist with the phillips and the damn head is stripped. Instead of using a screwdriver to remove them use a small pair of stubby plyers. Grab the head and twist, counterclockwise of course. Use the phillips to put the screws back on, and don't tighten much!

06-12-2003, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Flyer
Use the phillips to put the screws back on, and don't tighten much!

Even better, run up to the hardware store and get allen head replacements for the float bowl screws. Don't forget to pick up the metric allen key for them while you're there. A few bucks well spent to avoid aggravation down the road.

Ed Y · 06-12-2003, 01:25 PM

Tom:

Got to agree with you again. I've been doing that on CV carbs for years. Beats the hell out of phillips heads. Never-seize on the threads also helps.

millertime63 · 06-13-2003, 12:19 AM

Great advice, I will pick up the American Rider also....

After the break in period I'm a wrench'n fool...

fatboyryder · 06-17-2003, 06:11 PM

Ed Y, that is the August of '03 issue of American Rider? It's out already? I did the rejet, V&H staggered bigshots (with crosover) SE air cleaner kit. Used the '88 sporty needle and stayed with the stock #45 slow and #190 main. I also changed the idle mixture screw to the one from Direct Parts (no, I have no affiliation, I work for the Gov't) This is a description of the mixture screw:
"Fits CVK40 Keihins used on H-D and some Vulcan models. Have you ever lost an idle mixture needle from your CV Keihin? The idle screw is not available and is a pain to adjust. Not anymore! This new needle includes a knurled knob to make adjusting a snap!
CCP had the OEM needle electronically scanned to accurately determine the shape of the tip and modified it slightly to improve it. In testing, Dyno Jet found it had much higher linearity in adjustment of the mixture. No more trying to get a screw driver in a blind hole. Just reach in and turn the knob. "
The bike seems to run OK, but when adjusting the mixture screw (screw in til engine falters) the engine never falters. Screwed it all the way in and seems to hit both cylinders no problem. What's more, if I screw it out 3 turns there is no change. There is some popping through the carb off idle when bike is warmed up, not when cold. What gives?????

slickone · 06-19-2003, 07:54 AM

This is a quote from Direct Parts Tech Articles. Hope it helps "On the CV, adjust the idle mixture while idling. Closing the idle mixture screw slowly should cause the idle to become rough. Slowly turn the screw out until the engine again idles smoothly. Add approximately 1/8 to ¼ turn more. If closing the screw makes no difference in idle speed or smoothness, you will have to use the next smaller pilot jet. Until the 2000 model year, most Big Twins have a #42 as the stock pilot jet. 2000 models use a #45 stock. In some cases, depending on the bike setup and altitude, a #45 may actually be too large. Drag Specialties provides a #44 pilot jet, which works very well under most conditions. If you have to turn the screw out more than 3 turns, consider increasing jet size to the next larger pilot. A Creative Cycle Products idle mixture needle (CP005) comes in handy here as it allows you to adjust the mixture without tools".
I am considering purchasing one of these screws also

Marc M.

71Fish · 06-20-2003, 08:19 PM

Quote:

There is some popping through the carb off idle when bike is warmed up, not when cold. What gives?????

Hmm I gonna guess that it wouldn't hurt to go up a size on the slow jet. Seeing that he is at or near sea level I wouldn't think he would need to drop down from a 45. Just a thought but would be curious to see what others think.

I was just talking to my local dealer about jetting when they do my SE breather and pipes and I discussed the popular Sporty needle option. They said that if I wanted they would do this and it can work but that sometimes it doesn't do the trick and you still get some carb farts. I think I might go up a jet size as opposed to trying the Sporty needle trick and then go back and try it if their jetting doesn't suit me.

Ed Y · 06-20-2003, 09:28 PM

On some bikes it is necessary to shim the sporty needle slightly. (.020).
Others work good by changing the slow jet to a 46 with the sporty needle. They are definitely not all the same, most are, but not all.

I've got a friend that has a small indy shop. He puts a turbulator in the throat of the manifold and has had good luck with it getting rid of the occasional carb fart. I always thought they were kinda snake oil stuff but he swears by em.

fatboyryder · 06-21-2003, 07:30 AM

Thanks for the replies, the thing that confused me most was the carb farts off idle, indicating a lean condition, and the idle mixture screw screwed all the way in and no rough idle, indicating a rich condition. Didn't make sense. Can conditions other than lean mis cause carb farts? Ed I noticed you mentioned the turbulator, could a less than optimally atomized air/fuel mixture cause my problem?

71Fish · 07-02-2003, 07:34 PM

fatboyryder Keep us updated on your bike. I was just curious what works out for ya. I got the Python staggereds with a 48 slow jet, 210 main and the stock needle shimmed and runs fine. Gotta run it some more and see if the 210 is a bit more than needed but it's what the shop recommended and did. No low RPM carb farts or any backfiring on deceleration though like it did with stock jetting and slip ons. Anybody think the 210 might be too much and should have stuck with the 190 main jet?