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TMAN Cams

9K views 28 replies 9 participants last post by  FXDRYDR 
#1 ·
Is anyone running the TMAN 590 cams? I just finished my build and I have rocker box noise. I readjusted the pushrod and even replace the new fueling lifter that I installed. I clayed the rocker arms and they are close to the boxes. One of the ridges that is in the top cover. I ground it out and I still have the noise.

Is the Tman cam as noise as the Woods cam? I don't want to worry my self about it if I don't have to. I am trying to get rid of the noise before I take it for a Dyno on Monday.

Let me know if you guys know of anything. Thanks for the help.
 
#2 ·
There was just talk on another forum about TR wanting to regrind that cam a bit softer for noise reasons. Not sure if thats true or not though. I have found those cams generally quiet, but there is always some bike that are exections for one reason or another. What pushrods and rockers did you use?
 
#3 ·
I'm running the 590 gear drive in my '07 FXST. It makes a little noise, but it's not terrible. Honestly, I don't find the noise to be any worse (or better) than the TW6G-7s that I had before.
 
#8 ·
I have put this up in other posts................you can run the TR590 with stock beehive springs and stock rockers as was done on a recent build and the valve train noise should be no different than stock..............

Again on that build it was wisper quiet.

Ozroder
 
#9 ·
Well I found the noise and it wasn't good. When I built the motor I triple checked everything. I clayed the heads and I ended up with more then .100 with clearance and some how I broke a valve guide.
I did the whole break in and I had no noise what so ever. When I clanged the oil to fresh oil and take it out for a test ride is when I got the noise. The noise started in the front and went to the back so I decide to take it back apart and found that the guide broke. It ending up in the rear cyl and bending the exhaust valve and scaring the head and the piston. Now I am up in arms to what to do next. I call the guy who did my heads and he tells me that it had to be all my fault. If the valve was hitting the piston wouldn't it do it from the beginning.
Let me know what you think.
 
#11 ·
Did you check valve edge clearance in valve pocket?........

Strange you got through break in then you broke a guide.......even with lifter pump up at hi rpm.........at .100" clearance you should still have had no clearance issues..........

Valve seazing in guide could cause contact with piston if valve stuck open...............bloody rare event though.......:hmmm:

Ozroder
 
#14 ·
Did you check valve edge clearance in valve pocket?........

Strange you got through break in then you broke a guide.......even with lifter pump up at hi rpm.........at .100" clearance you should still have had no clearance issues..........

Valve seazing in guide could cause contact with piston if valve stuck open...............bloody rare event though.......:hmmm:

Ozroder
When I did the break in I kept the top rocker boxes off so I could squrit oil in until everything got pump up and I saw oil coming out of everything. So I could make shore that I would get a stuck valve.
As in the valve edge pocket clearence I checked them and all was good. The problem that I am having to under stand is that it is that the vale guide that broke is the intake and the valve that is bent is the exhaust on the other side. I understand that it suck it in to the other head on the cycle up and down but how did it miss the intake valve on the other head.
Here are some pictures.
 

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#12 ·
Who was your head guy? I have been going thru a similar build and have tried to catch up on your posts since Jan 09. Sounds like you have put alot of work into getting it this far and up and running. I feel for your tough luck on the valve guide breaking. Not sure what your plans are but if your looking for a good head guy try Don at "Head Designs by Dewey" he has valve guide upgrade packages that fix Harley's problems.
Good Luck, keep us informed, we've all been there as we work thru thru these types of set backs.
 
#17 ·
I think because without oil pressure the hydralic lifters give under the load of the valve springs. Thus your valve does not get the full travel the cam lift has to offer. I'm just a beginnner and learning as I go but I was told to use solid lifters while claying the the piston/valve clearance.
Maybe someone else can elaborate.
 
#18 ·
Theres chance you adjusted valves to quick and didn't let either the intake or exhaust bleed back down after adjustment.Ive done this and had the valves hit.If its very lightly you could have craked guide and had it get worst with time.Its just a thought
 
#19 ·
as for solid lifter for checking.All you have to do is bleed lifter down and the adjust until valve starts off seat and back up a cpl flats,Ive used this system many times and never had aproblem as long as I make sure its fully bled out.I also found that giving valve few minute to bleed down after adjusting during assembly helps.
 
#20 ·
I did what Zippers told me. They told me to bottom out the lifter to do the claying to make sure of the clearing of the valve to piston.
When I adjust my lifter I do each lifter and I wait 20 mins to make sure it spins around freely before I move to the next one.
 
#22 ·
Installation of guide could have broken valve guide......,then at overlap the rear cylinder has sucked the piece of guide into the other cylinder which has got caught between valve and pocket and kept valve open and piston came up and broke valve.........

Ozroder
 
#26 ·
G`Day FXDRYDR how you doing bro? Aussie in Arabia here

Ozroder
 
#27 ·
Well have to get a new set of heads. I know that 06 later will fit on the earlier models but will the earlier ones fit the later ones. I know the springs are different but everything lines up. I just wanted to check before I buy them and get them worked over.
 
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