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Old 04-16-2010, 10:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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TMAN Cams

Is anyone running the TMAN 590 cams? I just finished my build and I have rocker box noise. I readjusted the pushrod and even replace the new fueling lifter that I installed. I clayed the rocker arms and they are close to the boxes. One of the ridges that is in the top cover. I ground it out and I still have the noise.

Is the Tman cam as noise as the Woods cam? I don't want to worry my self about it if I don't have to. I am trying to get rid of the noise before I take it for a Dyno on Monday.

Let me know if you guys know of anything. Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-16-2010, 10:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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There was just talk on another forum about TR wanting to regrind that cam a bit softer for noise reasons. Not sure if thats true or not though. I have found those cams generally quiet, but there is always some bike that are exections for one reason or another. What pushrods and rockers did you use?
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Old 04-16-2010, 10:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm running the 590 gear drive in my '07 FXST. It makes a little noise, but it's not terrible. Honestly, I don't find the noise to be any worse (or better) than the TW6G-7s that I had before.
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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590

im running the 590 in my 98'' with fueling lifters roller rockers & se push rods and its fairly noisy. my push rods were adjusted and didn't make any difference. don't really like it but what do you do
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Old 04-16-2010, 03:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When I talked to TR he told me that the factory rockers would be all right for that size cam. But what you guys are saying that you use roller rockers in yours.
Should I get a set of roller rockers? Would that help.
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Old 04-16-2010, 03:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Roller rockers will not cure valvetrain noise
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Old 04-16-2010, 03:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the information.
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Old 04-16-2010, 04:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have put this up in other posts................you can run the TR590 with stock beehive springs and stock rockers as was done on a recent build and the valve train noise should be no different than stock..............

Again on that build it was wisper quiet.

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Old 04-18-2010, 08:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well I found the noise and it wasn't good. When I built the motor I triple checked everything. I clayed the heads and I ended up with more then .100 with clearance and some how I broke a valve guide.
I did the whole break in and I had no noise what so ever. When I clanged the oil to fresh oil and take it out for a test ride is when I got the noise. The noise started in the front and went to the back so I decide to take it back apart and found that the guide broke. It ending up in the rear cyl and bending the exhaust valve and scaring the head and the piston. Now I am up in arms to what to do next. I call the guy who did my heads and he tells me that it had to be all my fault. If the valve was hitting the piston wouldn't it do it from the beginning.
Let me know what you think.
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well that .1 clearance is cool, but how did you measure? With adjustables and solids? Were new guides installed in the heads when porting? If so, what was the clearance?
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyna1584 View Post
Well I found the noise and it wasn't good. When I built the motor I triple checked everything. I clayed the heads and I ended up with more then .100 with clearance and some how I broke a valve guide.
I did the whole break in and I had no noise what so ever. When I clanged the oil to fresh oil and take it out for a test ride is when I got the noise. The noise started in the front and went to the back so I decide to take it back apart and found that the guide broke. It ending up in the rear cyl and bending the exhaust valve and scaring the head and the piston. Now I am up in arms to what to do next. I call the guy who did my heads and he tells me that it had to be all my fault. If the valve was hitting the piston wouldn't it do it from the beginning.
Let me know what you think.
Did you check valve edge clearance in valve pocket?........

Strange you got through break in then you broke a guide.......even with lifter pump up at hi rpm.........at .100" clearance you should still have had no clearance issues..........

Valve seazing in guide could cause contact with piston if valve stuck open...............bloody rare event though.......

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Old 04-18-2010, 10:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Who was your head guy? I have been going thru a similar build and have tried to catch up on your posts since Jan 09. Sounds like you have put alot of work into getting it this far and up and running. I feel for your tough luck on the valve guide breaking. Not sure what your plans are but if your looking for a good head guy try Don at "Head Designs by Dewey" he has valve guide upgrade packages that fix Harley's problems.
Good Luck, keep us informed, we've all been there as we work thru thru these types of set backs.
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Old 04-19-2010, 06:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I used adjustsables push rods. I built the whole motor without the gaskets set the push rod and crack it over by hand and clyed it with playdough. and that is what I came up with.
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Old 04-19-2010, 06:27 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXCHOP View Post
Well that .1 clearance is cool, but how did you measure? With adjustables and solids? Were new guides installed in the heads when porting? If so, what was the clearance?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozroder View Post
Did you check valve edge clearance in valve pocket?........

Strange you got through break in then you broke a guide.......even with lifter pump up at hi rpm.........at .100" clearance you should still have had no clearance issues..........

Valve seazing in guide could cause contact with piston if valve stuck open...............bloody rare event though.......

Ozroder
When I did the break in I kept the top rocker boxes off so I could squrit oil in until everything got pump up and I saw oil coming out of everything. So I could make shore that I would get a stuck valve.
As in the valve edge pocket clearence I checked them and all was good. The problem that I am having to under stand is that it is that the vale guide that broke is the intake and the valve that is bent is the exhaust on the other side. I understand that it suck it in to the other head on the cycle up and down but how did it miss the intake valve on the other head.
Here are some pictures.
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Old 04-19-2010, 07:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I think your suspossed to use solid lifters when you clay the heads to check valve/piston clearance.
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