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Old 04-15-2010, 11:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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VRSCR wants to know Dino or Syn?
95" Big Bore 100hp/100tq

Any shop recommendations on a "COMPLETE" performance package for a 88" to95" Big bore kit. For a Street glide. Lookig for 100hp/100tq.
Looking for a shop with reliable service and parts. And that will get it done in the time frame agreed upon.
Was thinking Cycle rama or Star racing.
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Old 04-15-2010, 12:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would recommend Hillside Cycle.
They post on here often.
I have them building me another motor now, and they are great in all aspects.
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Old 04-15-2010, 12:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Maybe T-Man in Kernersville, NC is worth a look also, along with Star.
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you are looking for an east coast shop call Derek at G2 (Star Racing) they can give what your looking for. Also the S&S 95" kit will give you 100/100
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Old 04-15-2010, 07:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VRSCR View Post
Any shop recommendations on a "COMPLETE" performance package for a 88" to95" Big bore kit. For a Street glide. Lookig for 100hp/100tq.
Looking for a shop with reliable service and parts. And that will get it done in the time frame agreed upon.
Was thinking Cycle rama or Star racing.
Is Cycle Rama from Fla?
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133 hp
127 ft lbs tq


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Old 04-15-2010, 08:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Go with Cycle Rama!! You will get 128hp out of a 95"!!!
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VRSCR View Post
Any shop recommendations on a "COMPLETE" performance package for a 88" to95" Big bore kit. For a Street glide. Lookig for 100hp/100tq.
Looking for a shop with reliable service and parts. And that will get it done in the time frame agreed upon.
Was thinking Cycle rama or Star racing
.
VRSCR~

Not a shop....but here is my recommendation if you are after 100 hp and 100 torque and you can do it yourself.

SIMPLY CLICK, VIEW, & READ:

CLICK HERE


107.35 Torque
100.6 HP


5th Gear:

90 ft lbs of torque 2500 - 5800 RPMS 58 mph - 130 mph
95 ft lbs of torque 2700 - 5400 RPMS 62 mph - 120 mph
100 ft lbs of torque 2800 - 5000 RPMS 65 mph - 115 mph
105 ft lbs of torque 3300 - 4200 RPMS 75 mph - 95 mph
107 ft lbs of torque 3400 - 3800 RPMS 78 mph - 88 mph


4th Gear:

90 ft lbs of torque 2600 - 5000 RPMS 48 mph - 92 mph
95 ft lbs of torque 3000 - 5000 RPMS 55 mph - 92 mph
100 ft lbs of torque 2600 - 5000 RPMS 62 mph - 78 mph

By the way what's your budget? You also didn't mention whether you are EFI or carb.


Regards,

"Classic"

Last edited by ClassicRider; 04-15-2010 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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claydbal is reading this now saying WTF is this?
im doubting the 100 hp until i see it myself classic. sorry, but i cant see the 21 carrying the torque long enough to make 100 hp. i have no problem with it making 100 tq, as long as everything is damned near perfect.

didnt notice any headwork from the magazine writer?????
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Here's a HQ's drop on 98. CV40 and thunderheader tru duals. Just threw it on the dyno to see.
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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im doubting the 100 hp until i see it myself classic. sorry, but i cant see the 21 carrying the torque long enough to make 100 hp. i have no problem with it making 100 tq, as long as everything is damned near perfect.

Claydbal~

You weren't the only one "doubting" that THE MOUSE CAM could produce the results it has....so I respect your thoughts....but if you go to the "LINK" above and then go to the very last post I have placed another "LINK" to my dnyo results no spoofin or messin around with results....it's created quite a stir over at Harley Tech Talk as well....

Ahh heck to make it easier, here let me just give you a direct "LINK" to the dyno results.

SIMPLY CLICK, VIEW, & READ:

THE MOUSE CAM DYNO REPORT

At the bottom of the very first post there will be a "paper clip" symbol simply place your mouse curser on the paper clip and left click to see the "corrected" Dyno Jet SAE Report.

AND nope you won't ever see Joe Minton discuss head work since his whole thought process was communicating what he "termed" a "budget" build. In fact he believed it to be a waste.

I happen to believe that head work is as valuable as taking any other performance piece ie: pipes, cams, pistons, or tuning devices and working them to acquire a "plausable" and "real" result. It's just that most owners can "see" and "touch" all the other parts but when it comes to head work it always seems like "magic" dust being sprinkled around....but in reality a good porter is absolutely critical in establishing real results. What happens however is that most owners will simply justify their lower results because of what they will label as a "frivolous" expense and that they don't need the extra 10% gained in "performance" and decide to skip the entire process, but by not paying attention to this particular "area" of performance better results are left on the work bench. Oh and I am not a "porter" or a "professional" I am just an owner like many of us here.

In fact for grins, just to let you know how the bike is performing, since I am running a Power Commander III USB the "tuner" I used kept finding early on in the tuning process that my bike was still gaining power at 5600 rpms where at which point the bike was hitting the rev limiter and he became frustrated and said I wish we could extend the rev limiter, being aware that Power Commander has had this particular feature "rev extend" for awhile we contacted them and a tech direct linked to the unit on the bike and through a firmware update extended my rev limiter to 6200 RPMS at no cost. Just took about a 1/2 hour to do that. By the way the tuner I chose to work with in Denver is a favored tuner of many guys who race sport bikes so most of his work is dealing with the sport bike world, but efi is efi and together we reached some nice results....and we finally found that the bike pulled up to 5800 rpms....at which point it ran out of steam, not too bad for the little engine that could....with the right parts....a MOUSE CAM ON STILTS!!!!!

Regards,

"Classic"

Last edited by ClassicRider; 04-16-2010 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Here is my 95" dyno sheet. Headwork by a member here, 9.8:1 with andrews 37G cams, 42mm mikuni and cycle shack pipes.

I really liked the 37's

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Old 04-16-2010, 08:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
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claydbal is reading this now saying WTF is this?
classic, thats a 1.21 CF if im seeing right? rgardless of the numbers, i woulda never thought i would see that cam carry over to the right that far before falling.

cam timing was straight up? rocker ratio can change duration, but thats pretty mazing.

20 discs / open cap? thats some exhaust flow for that motor too.

i see there is some pretty good lookin headwork there also.

now, let me bend over so you can LOL
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Old 04-16-2010, 09:51 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claydbal View Post
classic, thats a A) 1.21 CF if im seeing right? rgardless of the numbers, i woulda never thought i would see that cam carry over to the right that far before falling.

B) cam timing was straight up? C) rocker ratio can change duration, but thats pretty mazing.

D) 20 discs / open cap? thats some exhaust flow for that motor too.

i see there is some pretty good lookin headwork there also.

now, let me bend over so you can LOL

claydbal~

A) 1.21 Correction factor is correct ummmm have had a total of 3 dyno tunes on this bike combined with the different modifications and each report was corrected to that level, but remember I @ 5000 -5280 feet in elevation where these "tunes" have been performed.

B) Yes cam timing was straight up no modifications were done.

C) Techincally from all of the research I could read the "duration" was "perhaps" modified with the high lift ratio rockers going from 1.625:1 to 1.725:1 2-4 degrees. The specs for the duration as designed are 220/228. So you are correct duration is only slightly altered but indeed it is. To figure it out exact was pretty complicated so I am going with the "estimate" of 2-4 degrees. So not only did I get more cylinder fill with the high lift ratio rockers duration helped me out a bit as well. The cam originally has a .498" /.498" lift and went to aprx .528" lift. Cost associated with doing this was $155.00 inclusive of gaskets so if some one were to do this "modification" during the build process they would save a bit more because of no additional gasket needs being associated with the cost I just outlayed.

D) Yes we found during the dyno that the engine responded better to a little less restriction and more discs....heck if I could have had longer threaded bolts that attach the discs to the end of the pipe we probably could have kept going out to 24-28 discs....but with the open end cap, it needs the open end cap at the end for some slight reversion which simply tells you that this particular build liked the engine to breathe even through the exhaust.

Claydbal you mentioned many of the actual peculiarities that were specific to this build, (forget the correction factor, heck if I were at sea level this bike would be even more of a beast, guys at sea level don't know how GOOOOOOOOD they have it when it comes to the performance of thier bike.....I am probably "feeling" "seat of the pants" 12% less power at a minimum) no modification to get the cam to be altered via cam timing, raising the lift some but yet being able to keep that intake close angle at 30 degrees, slightly altering the duration degrees, and manipulating the super trapp a bit as well.

And yes the heads, the heads are quite valuable they are BC Gerolamy heads that have been cc'd from 86 to 84 to allow me to get to the "corrected" compression of 9.04:1 or 9.47:1 mechanical/static compression. I took out the heavy duty springs as well and put some intermediate springs which of course will handle up to about a .560" lift which allowed for me to run the "stilts" If you followed the "read" from the link above you would have learned that the heads were originally designed for a more agressive build, one that in my opinion failed but I kept the heads and have put them to use within this build.....There are many porters out there that are quite percise and capable of reaching similar results for less money but I have what I paid for a few years back and they are allowing this cam to perform to the best of the cam's limitations so that works for me.

What I get out of this build is lower compression, more reliablilty, less headaches, and huge power based upon the parameters of the build all within a 95" build.

You can't go any further to the left for torque! As was described above this cam gets out of it's way @ around 2400 rpms at my elevation ie: 4900 feet, I ride up to 12,000 feet. If I were at sea level this cam would probably pick up another 200 rpms to the left and begin pulling around 2200 rpms. Since I am running 3.37 final gearing every shift ie: from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th all occur nicely at 2400 rpms and quickly as the bike gains power to 2600 rpms it's @ 90 ft lbs of torque in both 4th and 5th gear moving up quickly to over 100 ft lbs torque in 5th gear at 2800 rpms....heck with 3.37 final gearing the bike at 75 mph is running @ 3300 rpms and just beginning to be @ 107 lbs of torque up to nearly 4000 rpms @ 90 mph. Most guys with bigger cams aren't "feeling" their cam's potential until sometimes as late as 4,000 rpms because of how their cam is set up.

This bike is FUN to ride, it's not necessarily the "fastest" bike by any means but it is zip, zip, zip......quick.....and performs beautifully in the 45-55 mph area with great response in the canyons I ride through....it's a great "mountain", "city", "state highway" or "interstate" responsive bike. If one were to study the final gearing (3.37) and the engine characteristics of this bike as built one would see just how it all works together beautifully.

Regards,

"Classic"

Last edited by ClassicRider; 04-16-2010 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Gosh darn it, I don't like discussing peak HP, but here's another almost 100 hp (99.66 hp) build from a mouse cam. I'll be putting the mouse cam on stilts - going to 1.7" ratio rockers on the intake and will get the bike retuned by HDMD88. It'll break 100 HP and then all the peak HP worshipers will be pleased.

Now this is a broad TQ curve. With 95 ft lbs TQ at 1700 rpms, throttle response is immediate and smooth, hauls a full touring load (wife and gear). No compression releases, starts effortlessly, no hot start / kickbacks, doesn't detonate, and don't have to retard in summer and lose performance.

109.04 TQ/99.66 HP
http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index....pic,942.0.html

It's where the rubber meets the road that we ride, not strapped down to some inertial dyno with tie downs. Oh, the metal will scream, but it won't give you the truth.

Dyno Info
http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index....html#msg252395
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Last edited by BaggerDad; 04-16-2010 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:19 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndmp40 View Post
I would recommend Hillside Cycle.
They post on here often.
I have them building me another motor now, and they are great in all aspects.
+1 for hillside the 98 inch kit
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