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10-27-2009, 05:28 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Seasoned Rider
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Battle Creek, MI
Posts: 60
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Couple quick questions (pulling my motor out)
What size sockets to remove the primary drive sprocket and the clutch?
I know the clutch side is left hand thread, what about the one on the crank?
Tips for doing it without the locking tool? I'd like to take it apart tonight and that means no locking tool....
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10-27-2009, 05:36 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: MD
Posts: 138
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What year is your bike. Most models are 1 1/2" for the compensator, and 30 MM for the clutch hub. Yes, the clutch is left hand, the motor nut is right-hand.
'07 and up motor bolt is smaller, can't remember right now, 7/8 or 15/16, I believe
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10-27-2009, 05:38 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Seasoned Rider
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Battle Creek, MI
Posts: 60
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it is a 2003...
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10-27-2009, 05:46 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: MD
Posts: 138
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1 1/2 and 30 MM then, I've never done it without an impact, I doubt if putting it in gear, having someone hold the brake and all that will work. Good luck though!
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10-27-2009, 05:48 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Packerland Wisconsin
Posts: 114
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Clutch is 1 3/16 and left handed, engine sprocket is 1 1/2 and right handed. You can easily make a lock with some scrap metal need a piece about 7 inches long and jam it between the teeth or you can put some rags under the chain and sprocket to bind it up. The engine sprocket takes some pressure to get it off. You will need a cheater.
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06 CVO 113 Ultra
SE MVA Heads
SE 251
SE 50mm TB
SE 10.5:1
ThunderMax ECM
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3.37 Final Gearing
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10-27-2009, 05:52 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Seasoned Rider
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Battle Creek, MI
Posts: 60
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I have a 36" breaker bar, hoping that's enough. If not I'll dig up a pipe. Thanks guys!
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10-27-2009, 05:59 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 522
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36" Breaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimberwolfZ28
I have a 36" breaker bar, hoping that's enough. If not I'll dig up a pipe. Thanks guys!
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With the 36" breaker you'll certainly be in business..Need the locking device for the trans hub and piece of vinyl cutting board for the comp nut to jam both gears. I would just stay away from any impact guns.
Cheers!
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10-27-2009, 06:04 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,093
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My bike's an '03 and the correct sizes on mine are 1 1/2 and 1 3/16.
Had a hell of a time keeping the rear wheel locked up. Lowered it to the floor, sat on the bike and applied the brake while leaning over to the side using an impact wrench.
Also had a hell of a time getting the nuts loose, then re-torqued. Long breaker bar wasn't cutting it. Heavy duty impact wrench and still didn't come off easy. Not a chore I'd want to do every day, but fairly straightforward.
FWIW, I'm no wrench. Just followed the book.
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FXDRYDR
2003 FXD
98" Small Bore
107HP/113TQ
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10-27-2009, 06:23 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: IL.
Posts: 2,234
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socket sizes that were referenced are correct.
I have been using impacts on them for 30 years and never ruined one yet. just don't hammer on it when re installing.
some will say don't use them (impacts)... but just about every wrench out there does. so just use common sense and you will be fine
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10-27-2009, 06:41 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Seasoned Rider
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Battle Creek, MI
Posts: 60
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Well, the rear wheel is already off, so no chance of that. I'll be making a Harbor Freight run momentarily so I'll grab the sockets there. Probably find a piece of nylon there too I'd bet. And I see they have hydraulic presses on sale... hmmmm :think:
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10-27-2009, 07:15 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 998
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man... id be scared of using china freight impacts. are they solid? wouldnt want to round the nuts off.
i have one of their presses though. happy with it so far.
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10-27-2009, 07:17 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: montana
Posts: 1,987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimberwolfZ28
Well, the rear wheel is already off, so no chance of that. I'll be making a Harbor Freight run momentarily so I'll grab the sockets there. Probably find a piece of nylon there too I'd bet. And I see they have hydraulic presses on sale... hmmmm :think:
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if it is a bagger motor then a 1" wide 1/4" flat bar 7.5 inches long works as a jam bar. round the ends with a file or bench grinder. If you have someone tap on the socket with a brass hammer while you are putting pressure on the breaker bar the nuts will come off without much fuss.
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10-27-2009, 10:13 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Seasoned Rider
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Battle Creek, MI
Posts: 60
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couldn't find the individual sockets, so I picked up a set of 3/4" drive and 24" cheater to go over the included 18" breaker bar
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10-27-2009, 11:02 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: huntington bitch
Posts: 495
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Use a piece of plywood ( 5/8 + 2" wide bout 4-5" long) or a hefty screw driver trim the plastic cutting board down (fits in the dishwasher better and doubles for a sprocket lock) to put in between the teeth and chain if you do not have that stair step tool..
Use heat if the compensator is really Red loktite on there. Clutch is reverse thread. Loosed the adjusting shoe as not to put torque on it. DO the Comp first and clutch second. Comp needs No Impact--- Breaker bar and heat will do it. Clutch is REVERSED_-_- Remember heat makes things swell up a bit so let it cool down if it seems like it is locked up. Heat and cool twice will usually bust the toughest of loctite.
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10-28-2009, 07:39 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Aurora, IL
Posts: 87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merc1100sc
man... id be scared of using china freight impacts. are they solid? wouldnt want to round the nuts off.
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Their Impact stuff is pretty solid. I've been using them on my Jeep for a few years with no problems. I even bought an impact gun there and it has been trouble free for about 4 years.
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03 FXDWG
95", ported heads-1.9 int 1.625 ex, 37G cams, SE cam plate and pump, Welded crank, Timken bearing, 42mm Mikuni
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