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10-21-2009, 10:13 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Premium octane member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Downstate NY
Posts: 5,164
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Caution! S/E Tapered Adjustable pushrods
Hey guys, just figured i would give a heads up as i havent seen anything on this board about this. Have had a few member on other boards confirm my findings though.
I have installed 3 sets of S/e Tapered adjustable pushrods since they came out not to long ago. On first inspection, they looked like a decent quality part. Here are the problems i have ran into with them though. Of the 16 individual pushrods i have installed, 6 of the oil feed holes have been either partially clogged or completely clogged with what i assume is anodizing flash or packaging materials. So check, clean and inspect them all very good when using these. Should be done either way when doing a build, but especially with these, use caution, you dont want to burn up you new top end.
Also, although they are tapered, they still have the ability to rub on the tube. So use caution when installing.
The other BIG problem i see with these is over a few heat cycles, the jam nuts become really brittle. Not sure why i am not a metalurgist, but they do. So far 4 of the 16 nuts have cracked completely in half, and 2 show signs of cracking. Luckily they did not do this while in service, but when i install adjustables in a customers bike, i ask them to come back after 250 miles for a routing check, service, and inspection. So, while loosening/tightening them, the jam nuts they can snap in half. Just letting you guys know to keep any eye out or to inspect them periodicaly. Also, no replacement nuts seem to be availible from the MOCO, but i am wokring on that.
For reference the S/e part # is 18404-08
These pushrods werent abused either. One set was a 103/tw6hg build, the other 2 were both just andrews 26's and nothing else. So no crazy spring pressure or racing or anything like that. And if it matters, I do recomend using either S+S or Smith Brothers pushrods(or any relabled Smith brothers), or of course stock where possible..
__________________
Hillside Cycle custom head work
S/E 4.375 forged crank Darkhorsed
Axtell 117 cyls and pistons
Mikuni HSR48
S+S Super D manifold
Black Boarzilla
Wood's TW9BG cams and KF325 filter
Last edited by TXCHOP : 10-21-2009 at 10:19 AM.
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10-21-2009, 10:21 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Boston area
Posts: 682
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I have snapped one nut myself, but I felt I overtorqued it. Another member actually replaced his with a standard 3/8 - 24 nut (9/16) head.
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10-21-2009, 10:37 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Orlando Florida
Posts: 5,024
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I had a push rod with a broken drill bit in the oil gally once....it's a ''must check item'' with all new push rods.
If you guys want the best adjustable push rods look at Smith Brothers. Personally I like a solid push rod over adjustable any day.
Doc
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10-21-2009, 10:47 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Premium octane member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Downstate NY
Posts: 5,164
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Rob, yes i found some jam nuts that might work, but i am not re-installing these in customers bikes. They are going back to stock.
Doc, great to hear from ya!!!! Funny about that drill bit. I look at the pushrod into a shop light. Amazing what you can see with that little hole.
Doc, do you know if Smith makes solids in custom made to order lenghts for a twin cam? I would love to install ajustables, measure and call in a length, like a car...
__________________
Hillside Cycle custom head work
S/E 4.375 forged crank Darkhorsed
Axtell 117 cyls and pistons
Mikuni HSR48
S+S Super D manifold
Black Boarzilla
Wood's TW9BG cams and KF325 filter
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10-21-2009, 10:58 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Orlando Florida
Posts: 5,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXCHOP
Rob, yes i found some jam nuts that might work, but i am not re-installing these in customers bikes. They are going back to stock.
Doc, great to hear from ya!!!! Funny about that drill bit. I look at the pushrod into a shop light. Amazing what you can see with that little hole.
Doc, do you know if Smith makes solids in custom made to order lenghts for a twin cam? I would love to install ajustables, measure and call in a length, like a car...
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Dan
For custom made lengths Zippers sells a kit so you can make your own push rod sets. The material is strong enough not to flex with seat pressures exceeding 250 lbs. I used these in the Pro Modified motors I built, they are light and strong. Zippers also has a tool to measure the correct length you need for each rod....check it out.
Doc
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10-21-2009, 11:06 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Iron Will
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Munnsville NY
Posts: 4,361
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Doc,
That "sliding" pushrod tool does work well.
Scott
__________________
"If a street Harley doesn't have torque, how much horsepower it makes, simply does not matter."
"Treat your dogs with respect, keep your traps oiled and checked, and Beechnut is the tabacco to chew." The Renn, date unknown.
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10-21-2009, 11:39 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Orlando Florida
Posts: 5,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillside
Doc,
That "sliding" pushrod tool does work well.
Scott
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 ...nothing gets past the people in the know....! You-Da-Man Scott.
Doc
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10-21-2009, 11:42 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: ontario
Posts: 347
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I also broke a nut on these p/r's. I was in a bind and needed the bike for a trip so I took a good quality nut 1/2 across the flats and drilled it to 21/64 and taped it with a 3/8 x 24 tap. I have 5000 miles on that nut now and no problem. I don't know if I should continue trusting that nut or the s/e nuts.
kemo
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10-21-2009, 01:51 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Seasoned Rider
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 81
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Hmmm, maybe I should pull my SE tapered and reinstall my S&S pushrods just to be on the safe side. BTW, after installing the SE pushrods it seemed like my oil pressure dropped a little. But then again, it could be just me  
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10-21-2009, 01:53 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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0043--Licensed to Doof!
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Doofishul Flight Medic
Posts: 3,975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kemo
I also broke a nut on these p/r's. I was in a bind and needed the bike for a trip so I took a good quality nut 1/2 across the flats and drilled it to 21/64 and taped it with a 3/8 x 24 tap. I have 5000 miles on that nut now and no problem. I don't know if I should continue trusting that nut or the s/e nuts.
kemo
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It's important to trust your nuts.........
On the other hand, I have Zippers tapered adjustable pushrods in mine. No problems with them.
__________________
Seat, frame, stroker motor, paint, chrome, wheels, tires, road grime and a couple of old dead bugs. Fun meter.......PEGGED!!! 
I Doof, therefore I am.
D.F.F.D
THIS HAS BEEN A PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT. YOU MAY NOW RETURN TO YOUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED PROGRAMMING. THANK YOU.
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10-21-2009, 03:51 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: montana
Posts: 1,986
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would the jam nuts off the old style SE adjustables work on the new style adjustables? I can not remember if they are the same tpi.
Txchop what did you find that might work? thanks
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10-21-2009, 04:15 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: alabama
Posts: 9,325
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got a call about a month ago, fellow asked "do you know about SE tapered........." i said "did the nut crack?" yep, its a serious problem.
__________________
truth and equality for all. this is still AMERICA!
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10-21-2009, 04:37 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Premium octane member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Downstate NY
Posts: 5,164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwikt
Hmmm, maybe I should pull my SE tapered and reinstall my S&S pushrods just to be on the safe side. BTW, after installing the SE pushrods it seemed like my oil pressure dropped a little. But then again, it could be just me  
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Your choice on them...I was just pointing out to have guys periodically take a look at them.
The oil pressure difference might be due to the different size oil hole in the pushrod? Would be the only thing i can think of.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer-Glide
It's important to trust your nuts.........
On the other hand, I have Zippers tapered adjustable pushrods in mine. No problems with them.
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Oh, i do trust that your nutz!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtclassic
would the jam nuts off the old style SE adjustables work on the new style adjustables? I can not remember if they are the same tpi.
Txchop what did you find that might work? thanks
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No the old and new S/E's are different TPi i think. The new ones are 24 tpi, fwiw. I found what kemo did. Drill and tap out another nut to fit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by claydbal
got a call about a month ago, fellow asked "do you know about SE tapered........." i said "did the nut crack?" yep, its a serious problem.
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Guess it is kinda common. Of course my local dealer all 3 sets were purchsed from never heard of it, nor can find the nut separately. Just giving the forum a heads up...
Howya been Dennis?
__________________
Hillside Cycle custom head work
S/E 4.375 forged crank Darkhorsed
Axtell 117 cyls and pistons
Mikuni HSR48
S+S Super D manifold
Black Boarzilla
Wood's TW9BG cams and KF325 filter
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10-21-2009, 05:13 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 522
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Class
Quote:
Originally Posted by TXCHOP
Hey guys, just figured i would give a heads up as i havent seen anything on this board about this. Have had a few member on other boards confirm my findings though.
I have installed 3 sets of S/e Tapered adjustable pushrods since they came out not to long ago. On first inspection, they looked like a decent quality part. Here are the problems i have ran into with them though. Of the 16 individual pushrods i have installed, 6 of the oil feed holes have been either partially clogged or completely clogged with what i assume is anodizing flash or packaging materials. So check, clean and inspect them all very good when using these. Should be done either way when doing a build, but especially with these, use caution, you dont want to burn up you new top end.
Also, although they are tapered, they still have the ability to rub on the tube. So use caution when installing.
The other BIG problem i see with these is over a few heat cycles, the jam nuts become really brittle. Not sure why i am not a metalurgist, but they do. So far 4 of the 16 nuts have cracked completely in half, and 2 show signs of cracking. Luckily they did not do this while in service, but when i install adjustables in a customers bike, i ask them to come back after 250 miles for a routing check, service, and inspection. So, while loosening/tightening them, the jam nuts they can snap in half. Just letting you guys know to keep any eye out or to inspect them periodicaly. Also, no replacement nuts seem to be availible from the MOCO, but i am wokring on that.
For reference the S/e part # is 18404-08
These pushrods werent abused either. One set was a 103/tw6hg build, the other 2 were both just andrews 26's and nothing else. So no crazy spring pressure or racing or anything like that. And if it matters, I do recomend using either S+S or Smith Brothers pushrods(or any relabled Smith brothers), or of course stock where possible..
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Dan,
This is a first!..
A service guy that asks you to come back after 250miles...
I went back to the shop I had worked done he said fvckoff and don't return..
You Da Man Dan!!!
Cheers!
__________________
Those who fail to stand behind our Troops!
Feel free to stand in front!
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10-21-2009, 07:56 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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VTF Site Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Prescott AZ
Posts: 5,110
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Re checking that stuff is important that is a fact. I am not a fan of the SE push rods at all. Never have been never will be. Those are the parts the customer can have back. We use the Smith Bros that they make for us and have done so for this very reason. Not the taper from SE but we had issues with Taper lites in the past as well the old version SE quick install. Jims titanium version he he those did not work for chit.
Good post Dan thanks for the heads up. Could see a item like that creating a huge mess in a engine.
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