Crank options on 107. : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

Knighty-Knight · 07-13-2009, 07:40 AM

I'm looking into crank options for the build I'm presently looking into. I'm curious as to what crank options are offered for the B motors? Forged? Billet?

beaureed445 · 07-13-2009, 09:12 AM

Just my thoughts/opinions.....If you're looking to split cases and swap cranks, why stop at 107"? Take it out to a 117" or 124". As far as the crank goes, you can check into sending yours to Hoban/Darkhorse or going with the "new" R&R 5 piece.

Colonel Sanders · 07-13-2009, 09:55 AM

"If you're looking to split cases and swap cranks, why stop at 107"? Take it out to a 117" or 124"."

No way would I stop at 107" if I'm already paying for a crank and splitting the cases.

My 4.625" (4 5/8") is a Jims crank that I sent to Darkhorse for bulletproofing.

rbabos · 07-13-2009, 10:05 AM

There's a lot of additional cost to going bigger than 107. Case boring, timkin instal, throttle body. Shipping costs are brutal as well. R&R has no B option and is way overkill. Personally, I'm sending my stocker to Hoban/Darkhorse for rebuild ,proplug and tig weld. If you want to go big, do it, but don't get talked into something you may not need for your purposes. By the way, the stock crank is a cold forging, not cast as has been incorrectly reported many times. Done up right it is a strong mother.
Ron

Phat117 · 07-13-2009, 10:25 AM

Nothing wrong with going 107. There are some 107's on this forum that
will give the big boys a run for the money.

**KingofCubes** · 07-13-2009, 10:27 AM

Another option now is to send your crank to R&R (or here) for rebuilding, it can be lightened, pro pluged, welded, and 2 plane balanced.

Knighty-Knight · 07-13-2009, 10:33 AM

I'm not going to be spinning past 6k ever unless I hear a solid arguement as to why there is nothing to fear in these B motors. Personally I'd be happy with long gears and a ton of torque rather than something I have to shift 'regularly' haha

.

It would give me piece of mind to know that my crank was welded, balanced, and that I had a Timken installed....EVEN if it wasn't necessary.

Thanks RB, I didn't know the stock crank was forged and that is useful information.

Just so I understand this, if I do have a Timken installed, I will need to have my case bored?

Coolmaker · 07-13-2009, 10:46 AM

Send crank and cases to Darkhorse, John will do the crank work and install timken bearings and put the lower end back together for you.

Hillside · 07-13-2009, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coolmaker

Send crank and cases to Darkhorse, John will do the crank work and install timken bearings and put the lower end back together for you.

My thoughts as well.

Scott

Colonel Sanders · 07-13-2009, 10:57 AM

"There's a lot of additional cost to going bigger than 107. Case boring, timkin instal, throttle body."

Yeah, I guess it depends on what you're starting with and what you consider to be "a lot" of additional cost. In my case a 124" would cost me about the same as anything over 98".

Case boring was $350 if I recall. That's not much compared to the total. The Timken bearing should be done regardless, IMO. The labor and a worked crank are the biggies here and are the same at 107, 117, 120, 124.

One should also consider whether going small will ever lead to doing it all over again later down the road to go big.....how many times have I seen people do that? Many. It often happens like this...you rationalize a small CI based on a few less $$$ only to spend a whole lot more doing it a second time a year or two later after you rationalize doing what you really wanted to begin with. Just be honest with yourself....it's a whole lot cheaper to do it once.

BTW, 6200-6300 RPM is considered to be pretty safe on B motors. I spin mine to 6500...not that I recommend that.

Colonel Sanders · 07-13-2009, 11:01 AM

"Just so I understand this, if I do have a Timken installed, I will need to have my case bored?"

No. Case boring is a separate deal. If you find a shop that can do the case boring in house you can save the shipping charges. I did.

Having a worked crank should not be considered optional on these builds.

Phat117 · 07-13-2009, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colonel Sanders

One should also consider whether going small will ever lead to doing it all over again later down the road to go big.....how many times have I seen people do that?

Good point. Have to decide what the end goal is, and do it one time.

**HDWRENCH** · 07-13-2009, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colonel Sanders

"There's a lot of additional cost to going bigger than 107. Case boring, timkin instal, throttle body."

Yeah, I guess it depends on what you're starting with and what you consider to be "a lot" of additional cost. In my case a 124" would cost me about the same as anything over 98".

Case boring was $350 if I recall. That's not much compared to the total. The Timken bearing should be done regardless, IMO. The labor and a worked crank are the biggies here and are the same at 107, 117, 120, 124.

One should also consider whether going small will ever lead to doing it all over again later down the road to go big.....how many times have I seen people do that? Many. It often happens like this...you rationalize a small CI based on a few less $$$ only to spend a whole lot more doing it a second time a year or two later after you rationalize doing what you really wanted to begin with. Just be honest with yourself....it's a whole lot cheaper to do it once.

BTW, 6200-6300 RPM is considered to be pretty safe on B motors. I spin mine to 6500...not that I recommend that.

AAAA hAAAAA

cuaght you over revving engine, declined warranty page 654 paragraph 3 sub section 23 with footnote #3 no warranty for you......

Sorry got to make the Monday a happy one. you got good info run with it. A low compression some what budget 117 is a fun bike that will not break the bank run in any heat, and even 89 octane fuel. Still make 130+ tq and retain many stock parts. However stock crank is not one of them.

Colonel Sanders · 07-13-2009, 12:57 PM

D@MN! I was hoping Steve wouldn't read that.

ryanl · 07-13-2009, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colonel Sanders

No. Case boring is a separate deal. If you find a shop that can do the case boring in house you can save the shipping charges. I did.

Depends doesnt it? Thought case boring was required for zippers timken, but not jims. I think I just read that anyway.
Or are you suggesting he find someone local to do boring and timken?