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Old 01-19-2009, 10:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Twin Cam Engine Rebuild /70K

Hello members,
First post here,but I have been researching this site all winter. I own a 2000 FLSTF with 70,000 miles on the stock engine. I have the SE A/C and stock CV carb with V/H Big Shot Staggered exhaust.Thought I would tear down the engine this winter to rebuild it since the cam tensioners were a major concern of leaving me dead along the shoulder this summer. I have already torn the engine down to the case and have already ordered some parts. I'm posting this thread to get some input on the rebuild before I get to far into the build to learn some new and better suggestions on which way I should build it up.
I weigh in at 190 lbs. and 50% of my riding is two up. When I ride solo I'm VERY aggressive on the throttle and when two up riding I'm less aggressive.
I'm changing the cam system to the new roller chain conversion from Andrews. I have already bought the parts for the conversion except the cam grinds(I have not decided yet). I already purchased the SE cast flat top pistons for 95" (.010+). Planning on having the Jugs bored here locally. I will be taking the heads to Bill Bishop (Bishops Performance, Detroit) to rework and port the heads. I also have new Harley lifters and going to puchase SE adjustable push rods. I will also install new connecting rod bushings. I'm also going to purchase RB Racing Pro Stock C style exhaust system.
I was thinking about using Andrews 26N grind cams, but I'm now thinking that it might be a little mild for what I'm having done.
Would love to install the Woods TW6 cam, but he dosen't have conversion cams.
Is this the right road I'm taking? (camshaft grinds,26N,31N,or37N,exhaust,carb,compression,etc. ..)
Any other ideals/suggestions that I should consider? (carb,ignition,timing,clutch,etc...)

Thank you in advance for your input...DYCE from HELL, Forbidden Wheels M/C forever

Last edited by Dyce; 01-20-2009 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 01-20-2009, 05:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The Andrews 37's, set at near 10.1 will get the job done as well.
They just don't "strike" as hard as the Wood 6.
Cheers,
Scott
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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what about your crank, I'm in the same boat, I did the 95 " at 42000k. My next build comming soon will include a new crank and timken bearing. 70000 on an old crank and bearings, can that handle a whole new top end? and if so how long before you have to do the crank?
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Good question. I really didn't want to get into the case, unless I was having any problems. I really don't know how well the crank and bearings hold up in these twin cams. I guess I should put a dial indicator on the crank and check for run out first before going ahead with assembly.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:00 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Do a web search on L-10 Bearing life. You'll be amazed...
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by plongson View Post
Do a web search on L-10 Bearing life. You'll be amazed...
many links returned on that search. Could you recommend one or two for reading?

Thanks
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes, lots to read and look at. Kind of need a masters degree in physics to make sense..lol
So are you saying that the bearing should hold up or should I replace it since I'm there already.
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Old 01-20-2009, 05:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Woods cam and info.

Just got off the phone with Bob Woods and he told me that he makes his cams for the roller chain conversion. He just takes the new roller chain cams and grinds the shaft down to fit the older 7/8" dia. inner bearing. He also recommends the TW7 grind cams. He said that the heads will need new NASCAR style springs (W160's) since they have so many miles on the stock ones. He also said to take off .020 /.030 off the heads and use Cometic .030 gaskets and install compression releases. He also said to shorten the valve guides and make it like a SE head. Has anyone here used the TW7 cams in their build?

Last edited by Dyce; 01-22-2009 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 01-20-2009, 06:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyce View Post
Just got off the phone with Bob Woods and he told me that he makes his cams for the roller chain conversion. He just takes the new roller chain cams and grinds the shaft down to fit the older 7/8" dia. inner bearing. He also recommends the TW7 grind cams. He said that the heads will need new NASCAR style springs (W160's) since they have so many miles on the stock ones. He also said to take off .030 off the deck and use Cometic .030 gaskets and install compression releases. He also said to shorten the valve guides and make it like a SE head. Has anyone here used the TW7 cams in their build?
Now were talkin'!
We have machined the cams for Bob on several occasions.
The 7H is the same cam as the famous 6H, except with .015" less lift.
All of the above, as he suggests, and also a 1.900" intake valve.
Day after day here.
Big broad torque.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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i have the tw7 in my 06 dyna the 6hg in my dresser and the 6 in my evo dresser you will not be disapointed ,the dyno sheet for my dyna is in dyno section ,pete
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Pete, I could not look at the dyno sheet, I have to be a subcriber, but I noticed the #'s, VERY impressive Pete. I have a question for you.
Is yours EFI?
I will be running a carb. and I wonder now if my stock CV carb would be to small for that compression and that kind of head work and cam. I thought I read somewhere here that if you use a carb you should keep compression down to 9.5 to 1 or lower.
What do you think Scott

Last edited by Dyce; 01-20-2009 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyce View Post
Good question. I really didn't want to get into the case, unless I was having any problems. I really don't know how well the crank and bearings hold up in these twin cams. I guess I should put a dial indicator on the crank and check for run out first before going ahead with assembly.
you have the torrington bearings in there, so your crank should be ok.
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Old 01-21-2009, 06:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyce View Post
Pete, I could not look at the dyno sheet, I have to be a subcriber, but I noticed the #'s, VERY impressive Pete. I have a question for you.
Is yours EFI?
I will be running a carb. and I wonder now if my stock CV carb would be to small for that compression and that kind of head work and cam. I thought I read somewhere here that if you use a carb you should keep compression down to 9.5 to 1 or lower.
What do you think Scott
Dyce,
The CV carb will work great, 45 pilot/185-190 main, and 10-10.2 is where you want to be, once cc'd.
Cheers,
Scott
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Old 01-21-2009, 06:46 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyce View Post
Yes, lots to read and look at. Kind of need a masters degree in physics to make sense..lol
So are you saying that the bearing should hold up or should I replace it since I'm there already.

Rolling element bearings are designed to live a "L10" life if used within the design parameters. Industry wouldn't have it any other way...we run 24/7.

BUT, $hit happens and bearings fail, sometimes L-10 sometimes unexpectedly. SO, what should one do?? A couple of things come to mind. How lucky do you feel and how much money/time do you have.

I'd say...inspect where you can, then replace what is worn. Replace the easy stuff and gamble on the rest.

For example, I wouldn't change the big end rod when doing cams...

The problem with the whole L10 scenario is "Design and Application". When MOCO designs and installs a bearing that is marginal for the application, the L10 goes way down. Look at the INA cam needle bearings. They are just not in the same league as the Torringtons. INA's probably have a L10 application out there some where, but not in our application. ALSO, all bearings are not created equal, I'd NEVER install anything from India or Pakistan. USA, Japan, Germany...would be generally acceptable.

But if nothing else, going by a L10 life schedule gives you piece of mind, 100,000 hours of service (thats 11 years at 24/7, I believe 1800 rpm)... Whew...
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Last edited by plongson; 01-21-2009 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 01-21-2009, 09:21 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Should I also install that Sportster needle for the carb that I read so much about? Thanks for the replies
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2000 FLSTF
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Bishop's Performance,
Stage 2, Hammerheads.
SE HC Pistons
SE Head Gaskets
Woods TW7HR
SE tapered adj. push rods
SE 44MM CV
DTT ignition
Dohtery Power Pacc AC
RB Racing LSR Challenge ProStock "B" Style exhaust
Rivera Pro Clutch w/TPP
Barnett cables
RB Racing A/F gauge and O2 sensor

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