Oops

[jim t]

I don't know just went wrong. I picked up a set of o5 heads from a forum member, did some port work, had my machinest fit 1.9 intake valves and buttoned it up with .0030 Cometic gaskets. I ran it for about 100mi. and then $%*, it blew a push rod. I'm not sure what happened. All I can see without pulling the head again is the exhaust valve and the stem doesn't look galled so? I had to put a molly Crane adjustable push rod in so I can get it running. The one I blew and the rest of the set are Andrews for 99 to 01. I sure would like to find someone with a broken up set so I can get an intake. They are the gold colored ones. I can't afford to buy an other set and I don't want to put the whole molly set back in because of their weight.

[HDWRENCH]

I would say that the small amount of increase in weight is worth the extra strength and rigidity that comes with a C/M rod. You could try a set that are 3/8 vs 7/16 . I have never weighed the push rods that smith bros makes for us. I cannot think for a normal street engine that you need to be worried about valve train weight. I may have one of the gold ones you are looking for. I will check for you.

[jim t]

I know I would probably never notice the difference but I'd kind of like to stay with the Andrews. If you have one that would match, that would really help me. Thanks for looking. Let me know.

[hdryder]

I have never had any luck with Andrews pushrods on the builds I have done(gonna get some heat for this I'm sure). I have had a few now bend. After further inspection almost everyone of them cracked at the threaded rod going into the tube, then bent as a result of the break. Change brands and havent had an issue for a few years now. I currently use the SE's and Baisley's (which are smith brothers if I'm not mistaken).

[BVBOB]

Bent pushrod? you stated that you installed bigger intake valves, did you address possible piston to valve clearance at time of the build, clay?

[jim t]

I think I probably created the problem my self. I had crane lifters in the bike before did this work. When I built the top end before I ended up with too heavy of springs. I think orders got mixed up where I bought the springs. I discovered that they were 185lb. closed. They were comp cam springs. I started loosing power and tore it dowm. What I found was that the valve had sucked down into the keepers. I came close to scattering the whole top end. I also found the map sensor melted closed probably from hot soak kick back. I went from 37G's to 50's. Having read a lot about the superiority of the Johnson lifters I decided to use the 99 lifters. I'm still a little suspicious of the dammage those Comp springs may have done to the Crane lifters. The Johnsons were dry when I put them in and I think I may have miscalculated the start point with my adjustment the first time. At any rate I took a test ride jus a while ago and it's running great. If I have to, I'll just put the whole Crane pushrod set back in but I'd like to stay with the lighter ones if I can. After all, I just bought the damn things. I didn't clay the clearance but my advisors said I shuld not have to worry with my SE. flat tops. Thanks for the input guys.

[hdmarsh77]

Depending on your squish, with those 1.9 valves there's a chance your valve is hitting the SE piston. They aren't clearanced for larger valves.

[jim t]

During my test ride a while ago I took it up to the limiter on the stock ECM with no problem. I'm kind of concerned what will happen whed I put my DTT back in and limit it at 6100 though. In retrospect, I should have clayed it. In my defense I have to say that three of my advisors said not to worry. Believe it or not I went looking for clay in this one horse area and couldn't find any. Play dough but no clay. Hobby shop, k-mart, Wall Mart, even Longs, couldn't find any so I gave up. Not too smart I guess. I would think if I hit the piston it would have bent a valve and it didn't as far as I can tell. I'm getting lower ccp readings than with my old heads but have been told it is likely because of overlap difference between the 37's and the 50's.

[route66paul]

solder works, if you are care ful, you can even set it through the plug hole, ans then pull it out to check clearence.

[jim t]

Wow, never thought of that. Kind of risky though.

[HDWRENCH]

I did find one that , but the lower end has a crack in it. Sorry, we have tried a bunch of pushrods and the smith bros have been the best thus far. I have several sets of take out SE rods that customers dont even want back you can have a set of them LOL

[jim t]

I guess your saying the crack is in the alloy? My ferus portion, the adjuster, is salvagable. It looks like I'm going back to the Crane mollys. Thanks for looking.

[DADAWG]

Originally Posted by HDWRENCH

I did find one that , but the lower end has a crack in it. Sorry, we have tried a bunch of pushrods and the smith bros have been the best thus far. I have several sets of take out SE rods that customers dont even want back you can have a set of them LOL

nice effort , decent of you .

[pwmorris]

You are not totally sure about the clearances so PULL THE HEADS BACK OFF. Yeah it's a hassle but pull em' am clay em-if you just replace the pushrods, you arent 100% sure if you have proper clearances and you could have a big mess down the road-esspecially when you really bring up the RPM's-also you are not confident with your springs as well so check them again. It's got to go back together with confidence or you are never goin' to really feel good about it.

As far as pushrods, the Smith Bros or Rivera taper light pushrods work well for me.

[jim t]

I'm not worried about the springs I have in there now. I put in Comp Cams bee hives @ about 145lb. on the seat. The 50'sare only510 lift so they'll work fine. My machinest even remarke how good the new ones are. I'm going to toss or give away the 185lbers. I won't be running anything I could use them for. I really don;t think clearance was the problem. I think I just screwed up on the adjustments, too loose.