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Old 04-16-2008, 08:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Compensator Question

Hi all...This question stems from another thread I started in this forum where I described a very nasty noise and vibration coming from the bike last time I rode her. I got a lot of really good feedback that it may be a compensator problem.

I pulled my primary inspection cover off to view my compensator for damage and to see if it was loose.

The compensator looks to be in good shape. There are some savings in the primary oil, nothing really bad, mostly at the primary drain. My question is should you be able to turn the compensator with your fingers? Also, should there be any plan in the outer shell of the compensator?

I can turn the outer housing of the compensator with my fingertips fairly easy. Also, if I put pressure on the edge of the outer housing, there is a small amount of play in the compensator...enough to make it rattle back and forth.

Is this normal for the compensator?

Thanks again for your help everyone
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Old 04-17-2008, 01:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Nope.

Bruce
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Old 04-17-2008, 04:26 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You are going to have to take the comp all apart, clean thoroughly and reassemble to spec. I think you will also want to inspect and clean all the threads on the shaft...if you have metal shavings you need to ID where they came from and give that part some attention.

Hopefully you have not stuffed your crank bearing.....

You will need the locking tools and a review of the procedure to retension everything properly. I cannot recall which sprocket is reverse threaded....I think its the clutch basket one and the comp sprocket is right hand threaded....

Some reckon you can use a wadded up rag to lock the chain/gears but I have heard stories of things getting "caddy-wampus" and the chain breaking as a result....

Some people have problems getting the right clamp load on the comp sprocket nut and there is actually a shim that can go underneath/behind it. Make note of any shims and their locations at disassembly and make sure you get the right tension specs across the board.

I think the tension procedure for the comp sprocket now involves a "Torque-Turn", after setting the clamp load with a tension wrench....FIND OUT.

My stealer fitted my new comp sprocket and clutch basket and failed to get it right. The freegin thing came loose at a big rally and nobody there (had a mechanics tent/workshop) had the locking tools or would tighten it up for me. Mind you this was at a State Hog Rally....pretty lame. Coulda bought new tyres..and had them mounted....but no comp sprocket attention??

Making matters worse, the Stealers Service manager was onsite, told him about it and he told me...."I am off the clock....bring it in...." This was about 18hours from "his shop"....

Its not a defect you want to keep operating your scoot with....

Let us know what you find when you get it all apart and cleaned up!!

Good Luck
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Old 04-17-2008, 09:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/belt%20install%201.htm

Tool for you on page two I believe...
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Old 04-18-2008, 03:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Ok, I drained the primary fluid and pulled the outer primary cover off.

The compensator nut was indeed loose...I could loosen it up with my fingers.

I backed off the compensator nut and pulled the assembly off. It doesn't appear chewed up...the spring pack in the outer assemble is there, but can't tell if its good or bad.

I'm going to wait on going any farther on the tear down until I get my service manuel. It should be comming any day now. Then it's back to business.
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Old 04-18-2008, 03:40 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayDee5150 View Post
Ok, I drained the primary fluid and pulled the outer primary cover off.

The compensator nut was indeed loose...I could loosen it up with my fingers.

I backed off the compensator nut and pulled the assembly off. It doesn't appear chewed up...the spring pack in the outer assemble is there, but can't tell if its good or bad.

I'm going to wait on going any farther on the tear down until I get my service manuel. It should be comming any day now. Then it's back to business.
Another possibility where shavings came from is your rotor. Check that the splines are not eaten away.
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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If the compensator has come loose then the rotor (stator shell) is loose as well and could have contacted the stator. Be sure to check this.
the shell will come off fairly easily.
Just get a couple hooks (anything with a right angle on it will work) and draw the shell (rotor) straight out, it is magnetic so it will take a little effort.

Once you get this off look for any contact inside the rotor and on the stator.
Pay special attention to the grooves where the rotor mets the shaft.. These have been known to be rounded off and will allow the rotor to free spin on the shaft.
Be sure to check any of the thrust washers you take off and remember where they came from.

If you dont have the locking tool (35 dollar at the stealer) you will not be able to get the proper torque on the compensator nut... and use locktite and be sure the threads are clean.
Use brake cleaner for this as it will not leave a residue behind ..


good luck.
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Old 04-18-2008, 11:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the great info seamonkeyman and ktwillys, I just got my 2004 Softail service manual in the mail today...gonna break it out and start reading up.

I'll post pictures as I go for anybody who want to view them...if they can. I'm really hoping I caught this before I did any serious damage. I did ride the bike another 50 miles after I started hearing noise...but I really tried to baby her back home those 50 miles as best I could.

I'll definitely be pulling the clutch basked, compensator, and chain off so that I can get a good cleaning on those cam threads. I looked in the compensator nut and there was plenty of lock tight in there, Iím thinking it wasn't put on when the cam threads were completely clean.

I'll make sure to check the rotor and stator while it's apart as well.

I was wondering, is there any "meaningful" way to check the condition of cam bearing behind the stator at this point? Or would I need to tear the bike down farther to get a realistic view of the bearing?
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Old 04-19-2008, 12:30 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayDee5150 View Post
I'll make sure to check the rotor and stator while it's apart as well.

I was wondering, is there any "meaningful" way to check the condition of cam bearing behind the stator at this point? Or would I need to tear the bike down farther to get a realistic view of the bearing?
JayDee,, sorry to say that no you will not get a look at the flywheel bearing. It is behind a seal and you would have to pull the seal and stator out to see the bearing and even then you would not get a good look at it..

have fun with this project....

make sure you have a good torque wrench in hand as well and dont over torque anybolts that go into aluminum.
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Old 05-03-2008, 01:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ok, I finally got some work done on the bike. I pulled the primary drive assembly out of the bike and had a good look around.

Everything looked ok except for the rotor. The vibration took a toll on the rotor splines and they buggered up a bit. Luckily, no major damage to the crank splines...some slight marks from the vibration, but all in all they look ok. I am going to get a new rotor from the stealer today and pick up a shim to increase the thread bite on the compensator nut. I got all my loctite stuff together except for the primer spray.

Below are some new pic's of the work in progress. Check out the picture of the rotor, I set two 90 degree picks on top of it. That’s what I used to remove the rotor from the stator...no need to purchase one of those rotor pullers...it came off pretty easy with the picks...just be sure to apply equal pressure when you pull it.
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Last edited by JayDee5150; 05-03-2008 at 05:37 PM. Reason: Spelling!
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Old 05-03-2008, 05:11 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Compensator Loose

Mine came loose lat year under warrantee. It wiped out the rotor and Stator.

The Stealer fixed it under warrantee. 3 months later loose again -not under warrantee. took it apart myself, made a locking tool out of a piece of solid nylon stock. Bought the spacer. It appears that one of the problems is that the nut bottoms out before proper torque is reached. The spacer solves that problem . Others have even staked the nut with a roll pin to prevent recurrence.

I torqued my to a 150 ft lbs and no problem since. Very important to clean th assembly and degrease then use plenty of red locktite..
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Old 05-10-2008, 12:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Ok, all of my parts came in. I installed the new rotor and the spacer to increase the thread bite of the compensator nut. All threads were cleaned thoroughly and primed with loctite primer before red loctite was applied.

I did everything to factory specs...applied to drops of red loctite to the comp nut and clutch basked nut...torqued everything to specs...I hope this does it!

I'm going to let the loctite cure for 24 hours before putting the primary back on and filling her up with oil.

Here are a couple of pictures of the primary assembly back together and the spacer behind the comp nut.
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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good luck i was able to get my rotor off using a paint bucket handle and the compensating nut and chain off by loosening the cahin adjuster dept me from having to pull clutch basket
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Old 06-06-2008, 10:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Great post, wondering were I could get one of these spacers for the nut?
Thanks, Harless
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Old 06-06-2008, 10:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Great post, wondering were I could get one of these spacers for the nut?
Thanks, Harless
It's a dealer part bro...if you go to the parts counter at the dealer they should know which one you should use. I'll dig up the one I used and shoot you the part number if you'd like.

PM me to remind me because I'll probably forget!
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