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Old 12-07-2007, 09:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Crankshaft Pro-plug ???

Can anyone elaborate on exactly what this pro-plug is ???
I understand the welding of the crank pin. What is with the pro-plug
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Old 12-07-2007, 10:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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HDMD88 is reading this now saying WTF is this? HDMD88 is reading this now saying WTF is this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TOMPAGLIA2
Can anyone elaborate on exactly what this pro-plug is ???
I understand the welding of the crank pin. What is with the pro-plug
From my understanding it is pressed inside the crank pin which puts more pressure on the flywheel/crankpin mating surface. I never seen it but that's the way I believe it works
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Old 12-07-2007, 03:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The end of the stock pin is not solid it has a shallow area that is bored from the factory, the pro plug press fits in the end of the crank pin to increases the pin to wheel press fit.
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Old 12-07-2007, 03:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDMD88
From my understanding it is pressed inside the crank pin which puts more pressure on the flywheel/crankpin mating surface. I never seen it but that's the way I believe it works

Thats exactly how it's done Doc.
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Old 12-08-2007, 02:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I will stick with tig welds in four places on each side of the pin. I do look forward to seeing Reggie's when it comes out.
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Old 12-08-2007, 05:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darktrainer
I will stick with tig welds in four places on each side of the pin. I do look forward to seeing Reggie's when it comes out.


I wish R&R had theres ready now.... It would be in my build if it was...
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Old 12-08-2007, 07:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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And I quote.......

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Old 12-08-2007, 08:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darktrainer
I will stick with tig welds in four places on each side of the pin. I do look forward to seeing Reggie's when it comes out.
you and me both! factory is press fit---- press fit more for the extra bucks is reliable?
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Old 12-08-2007, 09:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darktrainer
I will stick with tig welds in four places on each side of the pin. I do look forward to seeing Reggie's when it comes out.
My crank and the other ones I've seen welded were done at 3:00 and 9:00.
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Old 12-09-2007, 07:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nc-renegade
My crank and the other ones I've seen welded were done at 3:00 and 9:00.
Interesting. Mine was welded in 2 places (each side) at 12:00 and 6:00. This was the direction that runout was off. This is the first my mechanic had welded. We'll see if welding locations make a difference, but I kinda doubt it. I'm not too hard on mine. I suspect that most of my runout was a factory installed "feature".

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Old 12-09-2007, 07:43 AM   #11 (permalink)
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HDMD88 is reading this now saying WTF is this? HDMD88 is reading this now saying WTF is this?
I haven't read in any of these post about welding flywheels if anyone has checked the trueness of the wheels after the weld.....
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:00 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Welding the flywheels causes them to move so you can use the weld to true the wheels up. just running a bead on them will knock them out. This is probably why you see it welded at 12 & 6. If it was welded in a jig it will be at 3 & 9.
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Related question: HD changed the fly wheel material from forged to cast ductile iron sometime in 2004. The cast wheels can be identified easily:




AFAIK cast iron and steel is next to impossible to weld together in a durable fashion. I happen to own one of the welded cast iron flywheel assemblies and wonder why I have noticed an increasing vibration level lately on my 107". Any thoughts on this are welcome

EDIT: Current crank looks like this (at assembly), run out was an unimpressive 0.002"


Last edited by ViennaHog; 12-09-2007 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:38 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfolarry
Welding the flywheels causes them to move so you can use the weld to true the wheels up. just running a bead on them will knock them out. This is probably why you see it welded at 12 & 6. If it was welded in a jig it will be at 3 & 9.
I think what you said here is exactly what my mech's thinking was. And each of the welds were maybe 3/8 to 7/16 long beads. After welding, back on the truing stand, these flywheels showed nearly zero runout. And in the case (with the new Timkin bearing) runout is nearly immeasurable. Now the cam gears (oversize on pinion shaft) are quiet as a church mouse.

Good pics there ViennaHog. And I was wondering about that. Fortunately mine from my 04 Softail look exactly like your early style pic.

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Old 12-09-2007, 03:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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R&R just got a set back from Hobans that were proplugged and welded, a better idea yet I believe because the weld is probably just a superfical fix that I do to every flywheel set I get my hands on. Doc, I usually have to pinch the wheels to get them in true so I over pinch them .001" now to compensate for the welding and they either don't move or come back true.
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