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Old 06-03-2007, 08:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cost of crankshaft balancing

What is a budgetary price for getting a TC88 crankshaft balanced, balancers wielded and the timken bearing installed?

I assume this will retrue the crank. I thought my crank runout was okay until I used an accurate jig to measure it. I have .00375" rounout. It is on a 2005 TC88 that is basically stock with 40,000 miles.

I want to build a reliable engine, since my wife and I spend a lot of time on the road with it.

Also, I looked at an 95ci engine tonight that has Branch heads, Branch/Andrews chain cam kit with alloy adj. pushrods and Branch JE pistons for 10.5:1 compression. The bottom was destroyed due to cam roller bearing failure. He is asking $1000 for complete engine. Not sure if this is a good deal or not? (Had about 10k miles before it destroyed).

So my thoughts are to get my engine's bottom end fixed and use the Branch heads, pistons and cly. for the upper end. I just bought Andrews 26A cams and will use them in this build or go with the andrews conversion camplate and 06/07 HD chain drive cams; since I have to buy a new oil pump.

Reliablity is more important then back breaking power. Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Old 06-03-2007, 09:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Branch heads are expensive. If I was to buy that engine, I would send it out to one of our sponsers and have him do the deed to the bottom end, changing the bearings and put in a 98 or 114 kit with suitable cams and have the stock heads done per thier kit. That way, you can be pretty sure that the engine will be done correctly, and if it is not, you will know who to blame.
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Old 06-03-2007, 10:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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http://www.revperf.com/Products/products.html

Just a quick reference of what i have been looking in to.

I am sure GMR, Hillside, King of Cubes, or Rev Perf could also help you out....May have to call though as you want balancer welded as well...
The link was just to give a ballpark cost. I sure everyone will vary a little and have some advice to add. I.e. timken conversion depending on year of motor...etc...etc.
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Old 06-04-2007, 05:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by route66paul
Branch heads are expensive. If I was to buy that engine, I would send it out to one of our sponsers and have him do the deed to the bottom end, changing the bearings and put in a 98 or 114 kit with suitable cams and have the stock heads done per thier kit. That way, you can be pretty sure that the engine will be done correctly, and if it is not, you will know who to blame.
I was just going to buy that engine for the heads, pistons, pushrods and 95CI cylinders; the bottom end is already the roller bearings.

However, I think I'm going to build my engine...2005 TC88B and go to the 98 and get my crank balanced and trued and the Timken roller bearing installed in the case.

I want a reliable and smooth engine, more than power. I put on an average of 20,000 miles per year and until I buy a classic, I need this engine to be very reliable.

I'm going to make a few calls to our sponsers today and make a decision.

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Old 06-04-2007, 05:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXCHOP
I am sure GMR, Hillside, King of Cubes, or Rev Perf could also help you out....May have to call though as you want balancer welded as well...
Thanks for the info.

Not sure if it is important to weld the balancer since I rarely rev above 4500. I just want to eliminate another source of potential problem. I am not at the point of removing the balancer from the engine as others have done.

My thoughts are with a well balanced crank, a timken bearing to control runout and a worry free balancer, then the engine should be super smooth and reliable. This is all I care about.
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Old 06-04-2007, 10:08 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Since you are going the split the cases and they will be in the shop, you can bore for 4.125 or the 4.250 pistons and cylinders. Which will give you 107 or 114.
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Old 06-04-2007, 08:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by route66paul
Since you are going the split the cases and they will be in the shop, you can bore for 4.125 or the 4.250 pistons and cylinders. Which will give you 107 or 114.
I hear what you say, however I don't want to do anything to make it less reliable and IMO, increasing the displacement to 107 or 114 does that. I'm am leaning toward a Darkhorse crank rebuild/balance, timken bearing installation, 95 jugs and flattop pistons and a Baisley street performance head port and rocker arms. Coupled with gear cams, feuling pump and camplate..I think this will provide a good build.


I also plan to start contacting some of the site sponsors tomorrow to discuss this build and see what they recommend.

Regards
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Old 06-05-2007, 06:25 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nc-renegade
I also plan to start contacting some of the site sponsors tomorrow to discuss this build and see what they recommend.
Regards

Call GMR 928-445-3473< Steve got mine lightened and balanced.

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Old 06-06-2007, 07:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Depending on you timing and budjet if you only have .00375" runout you may want to consider one of our R&R cam plate/ cam covers to stablize the crank and save your new oil pump untill such time as you can get one of the better cranks like the new 5 piece R&R rebuildable that will be comming out in a few months.
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingofCubes
Depending on you timing and budjet if you only have .00375" runout you may want to consider one of our R&R cam plate/ cam covers to stablize the crank
How would a camplate stablize my crank runout? I would think that my crank would just score the bearing on it too.

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Old 06-07-2007, 01:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Not so, The R&R cam plates we use bolt down solid to the case and turn the whipping motion of the pinoin shaft into a slight in and out motion. We have no oil pump scoring issues and the gear drive cams are whisper quiet.
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Old 06-07-2007, 03:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingofCubes
Not so, The R&R cam plates we use bolt down solid to the case and turn the whipping motion of the pinoin shaft into a slight in and out motion. We have no oil pump scoring issues and the gear drive cams are whisper quiet.
What would the safe limit be on runout using the R&R camplate? Is there any damage to crankbearing (on a 2004 TC88A) with the "slight in and out motion"
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Old 06-07-2007, 06:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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R&R took a flywheel assembly that distroyed an oil pump and had .011" run out and put 1,500 miles on it with a new pump and their cam plate and took it apart and no scoring.
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