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Old 04-27-2007, 09:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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keith black pistons

Bought a set of KB pistons(9.2 to 1) for my build and curious if anyone knows what the 2 extra rings that came with the set are for. They came in a package with the numbers R108 on the outside. They have a slight overlap in the ring ends and a punch dot designating the top side. Need to know if these replace one of the original rings already designated for use in the 1st, 2nd or 3rd ring groove. Any insite would be appreciated as I want to get the build going this week.
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Old 04-27-2007, 09:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Have you considered calling KB and asking them? Just a thought.
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Old 04-27-2007, 09:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Sent an email but thought someone that has used them might know off hand. Figured I might get a quicker response from the forum.
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The rings go beneath the lower oil ring rail to support it over the exposed pin area. Just install them under the lower rail and all will be fine.
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That is exactly what they are for. btw, have fun with the spiral wrist pin retaining rings.....
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yes, those "extra" rings go above and below the oil ring in the same groove.

I actually had no problem with the wrist pin retaining rings. You just have to stretch them out first. Then start feeding them in the hole starting at one end. I used a small screwdriver to gradually feed it in. Went in real easy.
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks guy's. I appreciate the responses. I heard back from KB and it turns out the extra rings are spacers that indeed do go in the oil groove as support for the rings. The spacer goes on the bottom and the 3 other rings go on top of it. They said the spacer supports the rings seeing as the oil groove extends down into the pin axis.

For you guy's that have used KB pistons, did you have to install the pistons on the connecting rod prior to compressing the rings and sliding on the jug? I see where some say it is easier to install the piston into the jugs while still on a bench but that seems like it won't work in this situation seeing as the oil groove does entend down into the pin axis. Seems like the only way to do it with the KB pistons is to install the piston onto the connecting rod, install the rings in correct order, compress the rings and then tap the jug down onto the piston. Does this seem correct?
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Old 04-27-2007, 07:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rollover
Thanks guy's. I appreciate the responses. I heard back from KB and it turns out the extra rings are spacers that indeed do go in the oil groove as support for the rings. The spacer goes on the bottom and the 3 other rings go on top of it. They said the spacer supports the rings seeing as the oil groove extends down into the pin axis.

For you guy's that have used KB pistons, did you have to install the pistons on the connecting rod prior to compressing the rings and sliding on the jug? I see where some say it is easier to install the piston into the jugs while still on a bench but that seems like it won't work in this situation seeing as the oil groove does entend down into the pin axis. Seems like the only way to do it with the KB pistons is to install the piston onto the connecting rod, install the rings in correct order, compress the rings and then tap the jug down onto the piston. Does this seem correct?
You have to install the KB's (at least the 10.5 comp's) on the rods before you can get the oil rail rings in. The top two can be fit beforhand, but these latter ones must be installed after the wrist pin goes in. You've got it figured out.

And the retainers are no problem. Just pull (stretch) them out to get them out but not much more than an inch, and work them back in with a small screwdriver a little bit at a time. Not really difficult. Make sure they are seated on both sides-inspect close up with lots of light. Good luck
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Be sure to follow their recomendations for ring end gap and piston to wall clearance.
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Kb

Quote:
Originally Posted by nw_guy4_fun
Be sure to follow their recomendations for ring end gap and piston to wall clearance.
Yes, don't underestimate the value of this comment. It makes a huge difference when in spec. I know because my original builder installed mine loose, and the gap was too small. The top ring gap is paramount.
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05' Deluxe EFI/BC Pearl
95" KB 374 domed pistons (10.8 comp.-215 HCP)
.030" commetic/.035" quench
HD cyl's .001" piston fit
06' modded heads
B Diamond high lift springs
TW55 chain drive cams
S&S adj. pushrods
Limiters
Barnett heavy clutch diaphram spring
Hi comp A Balls starter
Rivera 10/84 Ring gear
polished TB/manifold
Doherty w/Power Vents
Pro Pipe HS header w/Cycle Shack Rocket tip muff.
PCIII & Dyno
Jagg oil cooler
92HP/99TQ
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Old 04-28-2007, 12:12 AM   #11 (permalink)
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My KB pistons are flat tops. As I recall, I was able to install all of the rings, including the oil rings, before attaching them to the connecting rods. Yes! Make sure you have secured both ends of all the wrist pin keeper springs. If one end of the keeper spring is not secure, and it gets loose, it will cost you at least a cylinder and piston...maybe more. After securing the pistons to the connecting rods, then slide on your juggs.
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Old 04-28-2007, 01:14 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks again guy's. The directions mention that the top ring gap is the only one to be concerned with. I'll check the others but will definitely make sure the top one is exact.
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
And the retainers are no problem. Just pull (stretch) them out to get them out but not much more than an inch, and work them back in with a small screwdriver a little bit at a time. Not really difficult.
I guess I must have done something wrong 'cause I had a heck of a time just getting them started but once it did, it was easy from there. Oh well...
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