Anyone running high torque starter like spyke etc?

[Chuck K.]

The kick back issue has finally taken its toll on my starter it puked on me this weekend luckily I made it back into town before it croaked.

What is some of the preferred high torque starters? Are they worth it?

Thanks for any help, Chuck.

[Booggerbe]

Check out the All-Balls starters. Cant go wrong with them and the price is good. You might also look at the Big boar batteries also. just thought i would throw some hints to you. booggerbe

[woodwalkertc88]

i have 98'' with 37gs and a terry 1.8 kw ,, i claims to fit without clearence on the frame but its not true , grinding is required ,,, i still have hot start kick back ,but no grunt when i thumb the starter ,, i will be installing comp releases

funny thing is i bought a black one which is cheaper and while on the lift i noticed a shiny spot , i took an air hose and blew the wrinkle black paint off and now have a chrome starter

i bet those heads set you back some

[HDWRENCH]

Reading your set up I see no reason for the starter to fail. Check timing first then go onto the cables you are going to have trouble installing a big starter with the little stock cables. We use the terry cables or all balls for direct fit stuff.. Or I make them from welding cable the all time black look nothing fancy but they work extremely well. If you get a spyke you need a 200 cca battery and opt for the K-9 drive ( lifetime warranty) you can get it in black, chrom, polished and silver. You are in the 400 range for that starter. There are others out there that work very good also. I would upgrade the cables and make the battery is up to snuff, then choose a starter a 1.4 or 1.8 would be fine

[hivolt132]

I used a cheap Ultima chrome one, and no problems. 149. ebay i think. comes with end cap push button also. just be aware that the highest kilowat # means longer body on starter. you might not need 2.4 maybe 1.6 will get it done and should fit in without any problems.

[MilesToGo]

Put an All Balls starter on my shovelhead this year and it made a big difference. With my old starter, the battery had to be fully charged and it still would barely turn the engine over fast enough to start. Now, with the All Balls it cranks over much faster and starts easier.

[Hillside]

Originally Posted by Chuck K.

The kick back issue has finally taken its toll on my starter it puked on me this weekend luckily I made it back into town before it croaked.

What is some of the preferred high torque starters? Are they worth it?

Thanks for any help, Chuck.

THE BEST starters are made by Tech Cycle. All the rest are Chinese junk. Trust me on this. Check the links page on our site. Combine that with a good Interstate 300 CCA battery and your all set.
Scott Palmer
www.hillsidecycle.com

[Geezer-Glide]

I'm running Harley's 1.4 Hi Torque with a DTT starter clutch. Just put on Yoober Cables. Nice.

[Friday1]

Wish I could post a pic of the starter I built for the Pro Stock dragbike. It weighs about 300 lbs and will produce about 40 horsepower. It started life as a 24 volt diesel starter model # M-42. I took the starter drive off and mounted it on a jackshaft with a 60 tooth double row #35 chain sprocket. On the shaft of the starter I put a 20 tooth double row sprocket and then mounted the starter itself to one of three 1/2" thick by 18" by 18" aluminum plates. Two of the plates are 3" apart and the sprockets and chain are in between them with an HD primary chain rubbing block to adjust the chain tension. I have ball bearing flange bearings on both shafts and a 1 1/8" deepwell impact socket on a solid 1" shaft that connects to the nut on the crankshaft. I have two 12 volt 750 amp batteries in series and the whole thing is on pneumatic 10" tires. We affectionately call this the "Battlebot" and it has served us well. Before using the gear reduction, we just put the starter on the crank and an aluminum reaction bar against the asphalt, but it was not real dependable. The voltage would drop from 30 to below 11 when the button was hit! With gear reduction it just dips to about 22 or so. We still have to roll the motor over with a 24" long bar, to its sweet spot for a trouble free start up at the starting line. Compression ratio is about 15 to 1. Friday

[biggyD]

powermaster 1.4 is all I ever use .spykes are junk

[jkeenan213]

I seem to remember a post where someone actually cut apart one of the aftermarket starters and found it to be no more "beefier" than stock. That being said, I wanted to upgrade to chrome, got a deal on AllBalls 2.0 for about the same price as HD. Same time upgraded to 2 guage cables. Big difference. Cables are key, particularly if you upgrade. Also, a trick I learned here: I use one or two of the thin internal tooth lockwashers on each of the cable/wire/bolt connections throughout the bike, one under the wire/cable and one under the head of the bolt. They really bite when the bolt is cranked down and ensure both a strong electrical and mechanical bond.

[onsta]

Originally Posted by biggyD

powermaster 1.4 is all I ever use .spykes are junk

I have to agree with BiggyD, I had 3 Spike 1.4kw starters replaced under warranty before I spat the dummy and got the bike shop I purchaced it from to swap it for an All Balls, end of problem period.

[Bruce Woltz]

Been running a Spyke 1.5 in a 113 with 11 to 1 cr (no compression releases) and it's been running fine for the last 6 years. Compufire is a different story for me. Bruce

[Handfiler]

I've gone through 1 stock starter, 2 Spyke 1.4's (junk) and am now running a Terry Components 1.6 kw that is on the second clutch. I've also chewed up one ring gear in the process.
Moral of the story. If you're running big cubes or compression install compression releases. End of problem.
One last thing: never release the starter button if the starter stalls out on you when starting a hot motor. Keep holding it till it gets past TDC.
Otherwise you'll be spitting teeth for sure.

[RidingJerry]

Friday1,
How often do you have to replace the impact socket
on your starter?