2007 crankmare, noisey

[Sir Fig]

Help,,,

2007 Electra glide classic has been a real nighmare, partially my stupidity for listening to others...

First problem was the lean, heat condition..taken care of with Vance and Hines duals and Daytona twin tec...
Then I wanted to up the torque a little, fearing a crank problem I did not want to go too far..After deciding to have the heads built, I noticed the cyls were already blue, due to heat, so I went with a bigger bore, taken to 103...Aftermarket head porting went bad (so called reputable builder) Exhaust guide protuded too much, and front exhaust valve stuck closed when hot, very slight noise between 2000 and 3000 rpm under a load, any load...this was on the initial test run..Of course it took out the pushrod, tube and tweaked the crank,,Well it was well past tweaked...

Decided to replace the crank, went with S and S..and wiseco pistons...Reassembled and tested, ran great, strong but noise still there...

The noise is valve speed, but under load, sounds like a valve out of adjustment but only does it under a load... only thing done other than engine was a stronger clutch spring...

This is really starting to piss me off...I can find nothing grounding out, no metal no contact marks in rocker housing or covers..Cant ride down the road with stethescope...

Basically everything was changed except the heads, Re worked guides, valves not too tight or loose in guides,,,oil pressure good, Feuling pump and plate..sounds like a bad lifter in a Ford but only does it under a load..Exhaust not leaking, dont see any carbon tracks on pipes or heads, exhaust gaskets show no distortion or carbon tracking....

HELP!!!!!
Bill

[Seadub2]

Well, as a basically stock '07 Ultra owner I'd have to go with the old "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Mine has so many rattles and noises I wouldn't begin to list them. But it keeps on running fine. The lack of lowers and wind deflectors, some loud pipes and butt-kicking rock & roll keeps my mind off the noises anyway.

Best of luck!!

C.W.

[Texas Tom]

Man if you would of left it alone and drove the crap out of it and it broke it would be under warranty,I suggest you take it to a good indy that you trust ,that would be cheaper than taking it back to hd..good luck...

[Sir Fig]

Yeah, but it would still be a weak cranked no torque, overheating piece of junk...

[arealinvestor]

Originally Posted by Sir Fig

Yeah, but it would still be a weak cranked no torque, overheating piece of junk...

Overheating!!! That's a easy fix.Aftermarket pipe with Power commander and a custom map along with a good tunning indy and thats a done deal.You want more tq,easy fix, get a good bolt on cam installed.Stay with chain drives unless you want a gear drive.With a gear drive, crank runout has to be checked and be within tolerance.Again a good tune from indy a done deal.You went to far with the head work(you dont need head work for bolt in cams).You start doing head work , then you have to match pistons to benefit from the extra flow.Then you should do the whole motor to really see the benefit.Intake needs to be looked at,A/C kit needs to be changed,Crank needs to be checked,balanced,welded.On top of all that, you have to figure out where you want power to be,your riding style????????

[ceraaa42]

Just to be clear, does this have the stock cams in it?

Chris

[Sir Fig]

No, first cams were a mild Crane,noise was there then,,,After the new crank I went with a woods tw7 Stock chains,,Andrews adj pushrods.

I will gladly volunteer any information for some ideas...

Thanks,
Bill

[vafatboy]

Originally Posted by Sir Fig

Help,,,
The noise is valve speed, but under load, sounds like a valve out of adjustment but only does it under a load... only thing done other than engine was a stronger clutch spring...HELP!!!!!
Bill

Sounds like detonation to me, if it's truly only under load.

You still running the DTT? Don't know anything about that unit, can you data log and does it show the knock sensor? If you can't, I would still look and timing/fuel/dyno tune to be sure that it's not detonation. Might explain the excessive heat that stuck the valve in the first place.

[arealinvestor]

Could be either a push rod bad/needs adjusting or bad tappet!!!!!!!!

[Pikeslayer]

Woods = noise. Get used to it, I did.

[Sir Fig]

Definitely not spark knock (detonation): not lean at all, logged data from DTT.. no afr problems when noise occurs,,Air/fuel definitely lower than stocheometric,,13.8 area when knocking occurs... pushrods not hitting anywhere, tried different lifters, all adjustment ranges...
As I mentioned before, noise was there on first light build with stock crankshaft..different pistons and much lower lift cam...

Plenty of valve relief, deck height fine (should increase with heat anyway).. compression around 10.4

Anyone heard of any problems with the new type compensators?? Dont know what one would sound like, seems that the pitch of a compensator noise would be much lower...THIS NOISE IS MORE LIKE A LIFTER, BUT ONLY UNDER A LOAD..

I am quite familiar with water cooled engines, having worked on Toyotas for 30 years, very familiar with EFI, engine noises, trans problems and knock sensors (did not know that harley had a knock sensor, mine doesnt) cant see why someone would put a knock sensor on an air cooled engine NO WATER JACKET FOR NOISE SUPPRESION)

What gets me is the differences in metal expansion on the harley engines,,A good friend put a dial indicator on the cylinder and let the engine heat up,, the cylinder grew about .050..UNBELIEVABLE..

The Daytona twin tech is extrememly complicated but I find that it has the most adjustable parameters..You really need to know the Bosch system to understand this thing...Wide band O2 sensors...The thing is extremely accurate..I tried our 5 gas analyzer and AFR meters at work and the DTT system is extremely accurate..

I understand that harleys are noisey,,I have an 02 wideglide that I took up to 95 ci.. Same jugs, same bore, same clearance on the pistons about .0025, most cars run about a thousandth less...(yeah the cylinders were bored with torque plates) and the dyna is whisper quiet compared to this thing..I know the stroke is longer but DAMN!!!

I guess the noise could be compensator related, with the added torque that this thing has, I suppose its possible, but as mentioned before..The noise is a higher pitch, like a loose valve or bad lifter...What gets me is that it is only under a load, when riding...Noise will not show up sitting still...sounds louder on the left side of the engine..course there is a lot more going on on the left side...

I am not ruling out anything, but after 2 builds, the nioise is still there..and the only thing that is common between the 2 builds is the case halves and the heads...The thing that gets me is WHY ONLY UNDER A LOAD...

I have heard that valve spring harmonics cause a noise (wouldnt know what it sounds like) but again (WHY JUST UNDER A LOAD)

THANKS AGAIN, ALL IDEAS WILL BE APPRECIATED...

[Otto]

i would check to see it a pushrod is rubbing on a tube or the step where it gets larger is hitting the inner tube most quik install type hit the inner at lift i would recommend a 3/8 diameter like crane EVO NON Quik install would elliminate the problem as any rub will not allow the lifters to fully pump up and will make noise.. take a look

[arealinvestor]

A tranny problem? belt drive or primary chain?

[crewchief25]

How about a lifter bore being on the large size of spec?

[Geezer-Glide]

Wood cams, adjust your pushrods out 3 to 3 1/4 turns.

2007 bike. Wasn't there something out there about a noise, and after an IDS install it went away?

What do I know? I have a 2003!