Changing my IAC

[jpilone]

I've repeatedly cleaned my IAC motor, and I've had enough of the stalling.

I'm going to replace it this weekend (Got one coming, it'll be here today at my dealer).

I've got the manual, it appears to be a bit of a job to do. Also going to change my fuel filter during the process.

Any tips? Or just wish me luck?

[claydbal]

have fun! good luck!

[jpilone]

Yeah, I'm not looking forward to it. You need to partially remove the fuel tank and remove the induction module (a/k/a intake manifold).

And I need to go to Harbor Freight and get a long-shank ball end hex head socket set.

But, in the end, I'll have a bike that will stay running...

[bbrowncods]

I did it on my '05. It is slightly different but here are a couple of tips.
1. No need in removing the tank just raise the back and prop up with a rubber mallet or piece of wood. That allows better access.
2. Use a T25 angle wrench to avoid removing the TB. It will be slower but easier than the TB removal.
3. You will get new bolts in the kit with lock tight already on them.
4. Before installing the IAC, don't connect the plug to the new IAC to "see if it works". It uses the TB as a stop and will run all the way out and come apart. Don't ask how I know.

[mark_bert]

JP, I haven't seen a post describing your symptoms other than here saying you're having problems with the bike stalling. I had a similar issue with my bike stalling but it was only after it warmed up. Cold idle was fine, warm idle it would die. It turned out that the connectors on the fuel injectors had been swapped. This cause the front injector to fire on the rear intake stroke and vice versa. when cold, there was enough fuel that it wasn't a problem but once the ecm leaned things out, it would die.

I don't know if there has been any work in that area recently (mine was like that when I bought it after being rebuilt) but it only takes a minute to check the wire color against a diagram to be sure.

Mark B

[1949shoebox]

be sure to heat the bolts before taking them out or they'll break in the manifold... when you break in to your heads for work, there's two breather holes in the rocker arm support drill those bigger to about 1/8 and it'll do pretty good for your bikes breathing clears up blow by in your filter too

[jpilone]

The stalling is intermittent, and only happens when the bike is up to temp, but it's just too damn anoying to deal with.

Thanks for the tips so far! Thanks for the heating the bolts tip, I surely don't want to deal with that!

[rbabos]

Originally Posted by bbrowncods

I did it on my '05. It is slightly different but here are a couple of tips.
1. No need in removing the tank just raise the back and prop up with a rubber mallet or piece of wood. That allows better access.
2. Use a T25 angle wrench to avoid removing the TB. It will be slower but easier than the TB removal.
3. You will get new bolts in the kit with lock tight already on them.
4. Before installing the IAC, don't connect the plug to the new IAC to "see if it works". It uses the TB as a stop and will run all the way out and come apart. Don't ask how I know.

#4 is hillarious. I can just imagine the look on your face.
Ron

[bbrowncods]

Originally Posted by rbabos

#4 is hillarious. I can just imagine the look on your face.
Ron

Yah, I know! Luckily it was on the old one I was replacing. I got it back together but it didn't sound right after that. I already had the new one though.

[jpilone]

After looking closer at the bike, it appears that if I completely remove the fuel tank and the upper engine mount w/ bracket I have a straight shot to the IAC from the left side of the engine without having to remove the manifold.

Anyone?

[Krayven Sumhead]

Originally Posted by mark_bert

JP, I haven't seen a post describing your symptoms other than here saying you're having problems with the bike stalling. I had a similar issue with my bike stalling but it was only after it warmed up. Cold idle was fine, warm idle it would die. It turned out that the connectors on the fuel injectors had been swapped. This cause the front injector to fire on the rear intake stroke and vice versa. when cold, there was enough fuel that it wasn't a problem but once the ecm leaned things out, it would die.

I don't know if there has been any work in that area recently (mine was like that when I bought it after being rebuilt) but it only takes a minute to check the wire color against a diagram to be sure.

Mark B

How was your mileage with the reverse hook-up? Bet it ran lots cooler, too. With Harley's engineering, you were probably lucky it didn't take off traveling in reverse.

[mfalba]

Originally Posted by jpilone

After looking closer at the bike, it appears that if I completely remove the fuel tank and the upper engine mount w/ bracket I have a straight shot to the IAC from the left side of the engine without having to remove the manifold.

Anyone?

Did mine this morning to try and correct the mysterious stalling issue.

I have a 2006 Heritage Softail Classic. Jacked up rear of tank with a wood block and approached bike from the right side. One plug off the IAC Motor, two screws out with a 20 Torx 1/4" socket. New motor in and plug back on. Did not remove fuel tank or the air cleaner took 30 minutes.

Cycled the bike on and off three times to calibrate, started and rode off.

Rode the entire day without a stall and the idle seems smoother.

[rtb]

Originally Posted by jpilone

I've repeatedly cleaned my IAC motor, and I've had enough of the stalling.

I'm going to replace it this weekend (Got one coming, it'll be here today at my dealer).

I've got the manual, it appears to be a bit of a job to do. Also going to change my fuel filter during the process.

Any tips? Or just wish me luck?

If you remove the horn, you can use a long wrench from the right side to remove the throttle body. Lot less work. Sears sells the wrench...I can't remember the size.

Later....Sears sells a 10" long T20 Torx screwdriver is part number 47182. $6.99. Makes the job much easier.