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Old 02-27-2009, 10:35 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmc115 View Post
No question that the comp is worth the money. The stock one is crap. Now the starter clank is gone and the rotor can be removed without the inner primary coming off for stator replacement.
News to me..
Just got back from a HD dealer 60 miles north of home, talking about cam and pipe change. During the talk I asked about issue with compensator, he asked me if I had the HD download that takes care of the clunk on 07-08's start up, it changes the timing on start up and is suppose to solve problem.
I have not heard of this download, now I have app. to do cams and patch next week, Probably take couple weeks to get to engine work then I will know if the patch solves the clunk....
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Last edited by grandpa Tom; 03-28-2009 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 02-27-2009, 01:04 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Why can't HD make an SE compensator in a 30T sprocket size. The SE stuff is supposed to be performance isn't it?
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Old 02-27-2009, 06:11 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpa Tom View Post
News to me..
Just got back from a HD dealer 60 miles north of home, talking about cam and pipe change. During the talk I asked about issue with compensator, he asked me if I had the HD download that takes care of the clunk on 07-08's start up, it changes the timing on start up and is suppose to solve problem.
I have never heard of this download and the dealer where I bought bike hasn't said sheet about it, and I ve been in there probably a dozen time since fall....
the dealer up north said they called all their 07 owners and had them come in for patch, wish Mine did that....
now I have app. to do work and patch next week, Probably take couple - three week to do engine work then I will know if the patch solves the clunk....
if it's the 0903 flash, it didn't help and if your bike is tuned you don't want them wiping your tune out. Mike
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:24 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Hard to believe that the flash would do anything in that area. But what do I know.
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Old 02-28-2009, 08:32 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Hard to believe that the flash would do anything in that area. But what do I know.
Basically the way it works is the timing at startup rpms is dropped. The less advance there is at this point the softer the engine will spool up when it starts. By not quickly banging to life it the comp gets a slower rebound from the engine and softens the blow. Just another way to cover up a faulty comp design, but it will reduce starting shock loads in the whole primary area as well. Did it way back when I installed the tmax to get a softer startup. Any engine will start at 1-2 degrees advance instead of whatever stock would be, likely 5-8.
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Old 02-28-2009, 08:09 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Basically the way it works is the timing at startup rpms is dropped. The less advance there is at this point the softer the engine will spool up when it starts. By not quickly banging to life it the comp gets a slower rebound from the engine and softens the blow. Just another way to cover up a faulty comp design, but it will reduce starting shock loads in the whole primary area as well. Did it way back when I installed the tmax to get a softer startup. Any engine will start at 1-2 degrees advance instead of whatever stock would be, likely 5-8.
Ron
Hey Ron,
I'd like to do that to my TMAX, How's it done?

Al
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Old 03-06-2009, 07:23 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Hey Ron,
I'd like to do that to my TMAX, How's it done?

Al
Open your timing verses rpm page and drop the 0 rpm block to 2 degrees. Drop the 256 rpm block to 3 and the 512 rpm to 5. Leave the 768 and above as is. With the cursor click on the block you wish to move and it will highlight it. Hit the keyboard space bar once and it's value will be shown. With keyboard up and down buttons move the direction you want. You basically just link up with read module maps and settings, make changes and click the link button again to unlink when done. Turn switch off and pull the cable off. Save changes when you close the software and go ride. No initialize is needed for live edit afrs or timing changes. If it didn't have the effect you wanted all you need to do is link up again, open the same timing vrs rpm page and in map editing click on undo edits. It will ask you from this page only. Proceed. You are now back to stock map again once you save the changes.
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Last edited by rbabos; 03-06-2009 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 03-06-2009, 08:54 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thanks Ron
I've noticed TMax doesn't upgrade the manual with the firmware upgrade. Is there any difference that should be noted?

Al
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:57 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Thanks Ron
I've noticed TMax doesn't upgrade the manual with the firmware upgrade. Is there any difference that should be noted?

Al
There are two seperate updates. Software and firmware that can be done from the configure tab in the software. Unless something snuck by me, the latest software update is 2008.1.7.0 and latest firmware is 4.8. Only a few additions to the manual with fuel offsets viewing and writing plus online help, and more colourful with software updated to latest version. With writing fuel offsets you will end up with a custom map to your application.That gives it a new baseline for auto tuning with probably less required per session with the rewritten map.
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Old 03-07-2009, 02:32 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Hey Ron,
My latest is 2008 1.9

I reset the as per your direction, works OK although the compensator still bangs but not as loud.

Just got back from 75 mile ride, the bike looks like it was sprayed with cement.

Thanks, Al
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Old 03-09-2009, 09:08 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Hey Ron,
My latest is 2008 1.9

I reset the as per your direction, works OK although the compensator still bangs but not as loud.

Just got back from 75 mile ride, the bike looks like it was sprayed with cement.

Thanks, Al
The only real fix for the bang, plus way better driveline feel and sound is the SE big twin comp. I may have fudged the cold start idle down as well as the start timing and took about 90% of the bang out, at least to the point where people stopped running everytime I started it, but the new comp took all of it out plus a bunch of other noises, like the chattery fifth gear.
Damn, looks like I need another software update again. That's what happens when the bike is working and you don't use the software and keep up with it.
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Old 03-20-2009, 04:43 PM   #27 (permalink)
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The se comp is night and day better than the stocker. The new setup just shows how undersized the production unit was. You will not bottom the SE unit out on start-up.If the IDS didnt cure your rocks in the can sound then this will. The only thing the new new unit lacks is again good machine work.The bore on the spring packs are alittle larger than the shaft it slips over. Some owners have welded these bores and had them machined for a tighter fit.Thus ending the possibility of creating even more runout/wobble/vibration issues. Those that havent have taken care to center these spring packs upon installation.Not sure if that is the answer. The newer releases may have better tolerances but knowing HD---I doubt it.
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:18 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Yes the large springs centering could use some improvement but overall it's a good working unit. At least for the time being the installer should make the effort to center these the best they can with a dial indicator. Only use enough pressure on the bolt to hold the springs in positon while tapping them into center. Follow up with final torquing. As to whether they remain in relative center in operation, who knows, but at least you tried. As for welding, and being a welder I'm somewhat reluctant to do it . If I were to pursue a reduction in the id of the disc, I would look more into a machining solution. I will eventually pursue this and post the method. I would not hold my breath on HDs spring source tighening up the tolerance on the spring id.
Ron
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:33 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Update to POST # 16 above,

Talked to service Mgr prior to getting my bike back he found out that the factory had installed the down load in late 07 bikes, mine was build early 08 & had it installed. Still it clunked before.
I read elsewhere that on the SERT tuner One fix was to reduce the HD setting on "0" throttle from 25 to 19. The tuner at the dealership doing the work had heard of that but never tried it.
So he tried it and so far I can't hear any clunking and it seems the same turning starter over,not slow or sluggest. So this has helped!

But Now on down shifts under 2500 it slows down slowly, No decompression braking from the engine. This is not bad, just can tell its not right on the money.
Above 2500 downshifting seems fine, don't know if its the new setting at O throttle, dyno tune itself, or the new cam is different.. also when revving the motor it comes back to Idle a little bit slower than normal, revs up fine & no hesitation anywhere.
So any tuning guys here have any answers or help?? I'am going to talk to the tuner see if he can get it dialed in.

UPDATE 3-27-09;
Just got back from dealer, spent 2hrs with dyno tuner again and got it all dailed in now.
Can't hear any clunk on starting and it starts the same not sluggish at all, the decompression braking of motor at down shifts it like it should be. he said he had to take out more throttle on deceleration, didn't ask to much detail but it worked and runs great.
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Last edited by grandpa Tom; 03-28-2009 at 11:43 AM. Reason: add update
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