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02-28-2008, 06:38 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Pay Up!
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 206
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Labor Costs @ Dealership
I want to add new handlebars to my 2007 FLHRC that will require all longer cables/wires to install. Would someone give me an low and high hourly estimate on what to expect for this type of work at my local HD shop?
I'm planning on buying the bars from Wild1 and providing them to the dealer to install using HD cables. If anyone has done this, what was the damage?
Thanks! Much Appreciated! :-)
__________________
2007 FLHRC
ThunderMax EFI
Stage 1 (29440-99D)
SE Slip-Ons (80491-07)
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02-28-2008, 07:27 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: covington, tn
Posts: 148
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Depending on where you are located...most shops get around $75 per hour labor...then there is the "this is a pain in the arse" factor...If you are adding apes, I wouldn't be suprised to see a $400-500 bill. I have a friend that owns an independent shop, he will not touch them for less than $500 (maybe because it's such a b1tch of a job).
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03-04-2008, 06:00 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Danksville, near Budsburg, USA
Posts: 2,337
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In Napolean OH labor runs $60 per hour. In Longmont CO it was $95 per hour.
I paid just less than $140 for a crankcase oil change and filter with Syn3 in Bangor ME.
Last edited by Krayven Sumhead; 03-19-2008 at 04:34 AM.
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03-04-2008, 07:00 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Liker of Mid 60's FLH's
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonrober
I want to add new handlebars to my 2007 FLHRC that will require all longer cables/wires to install. Would someone give me an low and high hourly estimate on what to expect for this type of work at my local HD shop?
I'm planning on buying the bars from Wild1 and providing them to the dealer to install using HD cables. If anyone has done this, what was the damage?
Thanks! Much Appreciated! :-)
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If you're going to go that route, you should identify a shop that you know and respect first, and then call them to find out what their hourly rate is and the number of hours. You should know that many shops only install the parts that have been ordered through their parts desk.
What model number Wild 1 bars are you going with?
__________________
Near Ouray Colorado...June 2009
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03-04-2008, 07:04 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Liker of Mid 60's FLH's
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,207
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Double Post
__________________
Near Ouray Colorado...June 2009
Last edited by ChromeWelder; 03-04-2008 at 07:05 PM.
Reason: Double Post
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03-04-2008, 07:25 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: so ca
Posts: 13,064
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If you are going new with the isolators up and chrome everything, I got a quote of 2700 from HD. It was about $1000 total from my indy. That is everything to the front calipers, mirrors, controls, grips, bars, internal wireing, stainless braided cables and lines.
It adds up quickly, but if you want chrome controls and braided stainless, this is the time to do it.
__________________
Quote:
43%er
Bi-polar and loving it!!
Bi-polar and hating it!!
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Take you a glass of water. Make it against the law. See how good the water tastes. When you can't have any at all.
Just sayin..........
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03-04-2008, 07:35 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Longview, Washington
Posts: 1,648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Don
Depending on where you are located...most shops get around $75 per hour labor...then there is the "this is a pain in the arse" factor...If you are adding apes, I wouldn't be suprised to see a $400-500 bill. I have a friend that owns an independent shop, he will not touch them for less than $500 (maybe because it's such a b1tch of a job).
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 AND be sure you are there when the bars and controls are "set"...{sit on the bike, CLOSE YOUR EYES, and feel the position...otherwise you will be back {PAIN IN THE ARSE FACTOR} to get them adjusted.
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03-05-2008, 09:46 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pa.
Posts: 259
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The HD shop where I work part time, we charge a labor rate of $75 per hour. Time and materials for handlebar jobs using customer supplied parts. (no time quotes) Reason, is when customers order and purchase parts from after market on their own or other HD dealers, alot of the time, they get the wrong stuff. The cables are to short/long, wiring not right, handlebars won't match up with bike or controls. It goes on and on. I had a bike it took 9-10 hrs total to do over period of 3 weeks! Because the customer kept bringing in stuff off Ebay that didn't fit. I had this bike on my lift at least 5 times. His bill was over $1000.00 in parts/labor/sales taxes. 
Now if you buy your stuff from us. Aftermarket or HD, because our parts guys pick the right stuff for your particular bike with you. (usually) We then give you a time and parts quote up front for your job. Because its our fault then if the stuff isn't right. Then if the job takes longer then the quote it's on us.
At my own shop I work strictly time & materials (parts) only. I give no quotes. I do give quess-timent's though...
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Ride just Ride....
Last edited by Butch Usner; 03-05-2008 at 09:57 AM.
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03-05-2008, 09:54 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 4,234
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Safe to say you can count on 6-8 hours of labor (anywhere from $75-95) + extended cables....you're easily looking at $500-600 on the low end, and probably $800 or so. Who knows maybe less if you luck out...but it is a labor-intensive job.
But the end result will sure be worth it! I sport 16" psycho chubbys on my Heritage, before that I had 18", and I just love em!
Good luck...
Pat
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" Life's too Short for Bad Paint"
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03-18-2008, 06:45 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Pay Up!
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 206
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Thanks for the info!
I've since decided (price!) that I'll skip the handlebar upgrade this year. Was looking to put on Wild1 wo515 bars with all braided cables.
I did get a couple mods recently including a new Mustang touring seat and the thundermax EFI witch is amazing!... so is the saddle! Couldn't be happier with either.
Even though I'm happier than a pig in ****, still dont understand why I need to drop a grand +++ to make it run the way it should and be able to ride longer that 50 miles without my ass burning!
I digress...
__________________
2007 FLHRC
ThunderMax EFI
Stage 1 (29440-99D)
SE Slip-Ons (80491-07)
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03-18-2008, 07:01 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 615
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Do it yourself its not so much thats its impossible just takes a lot of time,buy the HD manual for your bike and look it over.In the long run im allways happier doing it myself and have more money to do other stuff...
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03-22-2008, 11:52 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Tom
Do it yourself its not so much thats its impossible just takes a lot of time,buy the HD manual for your bike and look it over.In the long run im allways happier doing it myself and have more money to do other stuff...
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Couldn't agree with you more. Now is the time to buy a Harley service manual & learn a little about your bike. Save some money too.
BP
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03-23-2008, 12:45 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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FNG :)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saskatoon
Posts: 17
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BUY A SERVICE MANUAL!! BEST INVESTMENT FOR YOUR RIDE................EVER!!
Why give the shop more $$ when you can learn to do it yourself. Plus changing out bars and cables isn't as hard as it seems.....did it myself last year. Piece of cake!
I know it didn't cost me $800-$1000!! Just my time, but it was worth it to learn the in's and out's of my bike.
Just my $.02..........it's your $$$$$$$$$$
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03-23-2008, 06:56 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: virginia
Posts: 405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krayven Sumhead
In Napolean OH labor runs $60 per hour. In Longmont CO it was $95 per hour.
I paid just less than $140 for a crankcase oil change and filter with Syn3 in Bangor ME.
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Sheeeit - really? I'm in the wrong business . . .
I have to ask (and I'm sure there's a good reason): Why don't you change the oil yourself?
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03-24-2008, 03:51 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Danksville, near Budsburg, USA
Posts: 2,337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glidemonkey
Sheeeit - really? I'm in the wrong business . . .
I have to ask (and I'm sure there's a good reason): Why don't you change the oil yourself?
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It's too hard to change the oil when you are 1500 miles from home, camping. Guess I could just drain it onto the ground.........but I know better. My crankcase gets changed every 5,000 miles no matter where I am.
Last edited by Krayven Sumhead; 03-24-2008 at 03:55 AM.
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