Installed Baisley spring-BIG DIFFERENCE!!!!!!

[DLRVelocity1]

Mine idles approx 18-19 psi at 1000 rpms, @ 195 deg F. Running down the road 45-50 mph at 195-200 deg F. Running Valvoline 20x50 Dino on a new 95 BB with 100 miles on it. Installed the spring when I put the cams in.


Cold, (Room temperature), I have to be careful. Will peg the 60 psi HD gauge if you rev it even slightly. Always allow it to warm up before I ride anyhow so this isn't a problem, more of an FYI thing...

Trying not to let this turn into another Dino vs Syn thread...

DLR

[McClendons]

DLRVelocity 1,

Thanks for the info. Do you have the number while running down the road (looks like you may have missed it). The numbers you have so far seem to match mine, but the pegging of the presure guage (as you cite) suprised me. Was also surprised while crusing at 50 or so

Thanks again

[DLRVelocity1]

Mc,
Rode today and observed the oil pressure at 50 mph. Runs at approx. 42-45. Rpms are at about 2500 with the 3.37 gearing and low profile tire I'm running. Readjusted my idle to 1150-1200 rpms using my tach, and when hot, (200 deg.), it idles at 19-20 psi. The gauge pegging only occurs when you start it up dead cold. You can see the pressure relief valve working as it will vary between 50-55 psi at a fast idle off the enricher at approx. 1400 rpms. Hope this helps clarify what I was trying to say in my last post. Motor is quiet other than you can here the expected "whir" of the gear driven cams.

I rolled into the throttle today, 2nd and 3rd gear and it will drive right out from under you. Got into 4th and had 90 mph showing on the speedo faster than I'm used to seeing and I hadn't even wound it up.

Probably the most impressive aspect of the whole build is the 5th gear roll on feels like the 4th gear roll on used to. I'm pretty happy with the work I did this winter. The 37 cams seem to work great.

DLR

[McClendons]

DLR

Thanks for the numbers, exactly what I needed. Mine is fairly close, although I am running SYN. My pressure increased more than "10-15%". so was a little worried. Now see I am in the right ballpark, but will have to watch it when cold--you are right, it will easily peg the gauge even though "room temp" in Tampa Fl is now Hot!

I am amazed at how much quieter mine is. It picked up allot of clatter when I went with the orginal 95 build, but sounds much better now.

Once again, thanks for the help and the specific #s

[Peacekeeper]

Installed the LMR2 spring Sunday, simple install although the exhaust was a major pain in the butt. Idle @ 1000 rpm cold pegs the gauge at 60 lbs, unknown actual pressure. Hot full operating temp idle @ 180 deg oil temp = 32 psi. Cruising 2500 rpm and up = 55psi constant with little fluctuation. Top end noise is gone completely, she purrs like a kitten. 3000 rpm vibration gone but I think that was exhaust related. Running Amsoil 20-50 with a Jagg premium cooler and crash bar conversion. The spring worked great for me.

[tolson1948]

Originally Posted by jlight

It's really not that difficult. Here are some quick instructions for a Road King Classic:

1) Remove right side floorboard.
2) Remove right side hard bag.
3) Remove right side exhaust. (Note: It helps to spray the header flange bolts and muffler-to-header joint with a good "liquid penetrant" spray a couple of hours prior to disassembly.
4) Drain oil. Note: Not sure if this is required but I needed to change my oil anyway.
5) Remove cam cover. Note: Take care in removing cam cover screws! Mine had some type of Loctite on them and I had to work them in and out slowly until they turned freely.
6) Drive the existing roll pin out using a 1/8" pin punch. Note: Drive the roll pin out slowly and make sure you catch it when it comes out.
7) Take a small hook and pull the old spring out enough that you can roll it past the cam chain tensioner spring. Note: Getting the old spring out enough so you can spin it out can be tricky.
8) Install the new spring and roll pin. Note: It is much eaiser to have help on this step. Have one person hold the spring past the roll pin hole using a small screwdriver. The other person can drive the roll pin thru. I used a new roll pin and turned the split away from the spring.
9) Reassemble in reverse order. Note: Be extra careful while torquing the cam cover screws. It is very easy to crack your case or strip theads if you over-torque the screws. I used a quality torque wrench (Snap-On) and torqued to 95 in-lbs. using 4 passes in the order specified in the service manual. I started out at 25 in. lbs. first pass, 65 in. lbs. second pass, 95 in. lbs. third pass and check pass.
10) Don't forget to refill with oil!!!!!

Hope this helps if you decide to do it yourself. It does take a little bit of mechanical skill. Old hdmd88 has been wrenching so long that everything seems simple to him!!!!! What'da ya say Old Coot???????? Anything you can add to these instructions to help him out???

I realize I am joining the "Spring" users a little late although that is somewhat normal for me. Thanks for the insight and I only hope I won't do any harm due to my not being a great mechanic but somewhat of a great destructer of once good parts.

[fattmann]

Originally Posted by Geezer-Glide

How many money?? And, does it REALLY[i]quiet up the "clatter" in the top end? I have an '03 FLHTC with 24,000 miles on her. S&S 510G cams. Will it be harder to install the spring since I do not have the cam chain? Can I sneak it behind the gear??

I believe it would be a lot easier without the tensioner in the way.
it will be a little more dificult with the cam plate in bike. but can be done.
make sure you do not run roll pin in between the spring coils.

with the spring, my idle pressure is about 25lbs
on the hiway 50lbs these are on hot days. higher in the winter.
starting the engine dead cold guage pegs.(over 60lbs)
it is nice to have some oil pressure.
(some one asked about stretching the stock spring. stretching a spring is a mickey mouse way IMHO to do things. fueling should include a shim or new spring with their pumps.)

this means the lifters will not bleed down intermitantly, and the piston cooling jets will keep working even at idle. my top end is a lot more quiet with the spring.

when you bolt the cam cover back on. make sure the bolt holes have NO oil in them. if oil is in them and you torque the bolts down, something will break. I used brake cleaner and compressed air to clean out the bolt holes

[tolson1948]

I ordered my spring from Latus HD last week and just got around to doing the switch yesterday. Not really sure if putting a little oil on the bolt threads when re-installing cover was a good idea but after using the brake clean and blowing out the holes I was able to torque them in three stages and did not notice any difficulty. The manual said low end of torque was 125 inch pounds so that is all the tighter I made them. Started @ 50 then 90 then stopped @ 125"#'s. I was going to use some blue loctite but did not feel comfortable doing that so if I check the tightness after a ride and all is still 125"#'s maybe it was not a bad idea. I am grateful to have access to this thread and the good reading it provided. Thanks

[Mikie]

The Service Manual was a misprint or just plain wrong. The proper torque spec is 90-120 inch pounds. Most guys use a value around 100. Grim tales of cracked cases abound from those who overtightened. You might want to re-do it.

Lots of prior posts about correct specification for the cover.

[8-Ball]

Originally Posted by tolson1948

I ordered my spring from Latus HD last week and just got around to doing the switch yesterday. Not really sure if putting a little oil on the bolt threads when re-installing cover was a good idea but after using the brake clean and blowing out the holes I was able to torque them in three stages and did not notice any difficulty. The manual said low end of torque was 125 inch pounds so that is all the tighter I made them. Started @ 50 then 90 then stopped @ 125"#'s. I was going to use some blue loctite but did not feel comfortable doing that so if I check the tightness after a ride and all is still 125"#'s maybe it was not a bad idea. I am grateful to have access to this thread and the good reading it provided. Thanks

agreed 90-120 inch pounds and maked damned sure the threaded holes are clean and dry!!!

[tolson1948]

Originally Posted by 8-Ball

agreed 90-120 inch pounds and maked damned sure the threaded holes are clean and dry!!!

Thanks for the reply concerning the torque#'s.
I will only put the torque to the 120 "#'s suggested when I button it up again. I had a thought this morning to go back in so I could actually see the cam lobes when I re-adjusted the SE adjustable push rods. Last year I noticed a little upper valve train noise that was starting to get to me. I picked up some new O rings already and can't really figure out why I didn't think about the adjustment when I had the cover off doing the spring. I had to take the exhaust off to get inside and have not looked forward to ever doing that again, but after being able to see both lobes on both cams and then sleeping on it I have decided to try that method of adjusting the push rods. I am not too concerned about needing another new gasket as I have not run the engine with the present one I just installed. P/n 25244-99A
I will re-read the instructions on how to find the compression stroke and go from there. Again, Thanks.

[tolson1948]

Originally Posted by Mikie

The Service Manual was a misprint or just plain wrong. The proper torque spec is 90-120 inch pounds. Most guys use a value around 100. Grim tales of cracked cases abound from those who overtightened. You might want to re-do it.

Lots of prior posts about correct specification for the cover.

I missed your response earlier so Thanks for your suggestion also. I'll be in it in a minute.