I have recently (May Of 2008) put together a PDF file providing installation/modification instructions for going from 3.15 gearing to 3.37 gearing in particular for my 2002 Road King Classic.
Should anyone desire a copy of such feel free to e~mail me and request a copy, I will forward it to you.
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Some of you may be like.....what are you talking about what is this whole thing about modifying one's gearing to a different gearing....so I have attached a couple of the best discussions I have read on the net about modifying one's 3.15 gearing to 3.37 gearing, just click and read:
http://groups.msn.com/HarleyTechTalk...lete=0&CDir=-2
http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/v-...ill-using.html
Back in 1999, 2000, and 2001 HD introduced the Twin Cam engine on touring bikes with either a carb set up or an EFI option. HD introduced those EFI bikes with the MM EFI throttle body. The carb Touring Bikes were given 3.15 gearing and the MM EFI Touring Bikes were given 3.37 gearing.
The question is why did HD do this, why did they offer a different gearing for the Carb (3.15 gearing) and the MM EFI (3.37) gearing in 1999, 2000, and 2001?
Some feel the reasoning was When HD started with the EFI in 1999 they were using the Marelli system, and I believe the difference in price was something like $750.00. Everything else being equal the carb bikes then had better performance then the MM EFI bikes. It just wouldn't do for a cheaper bike to blow the more expensive one away. In 2002 when they introduced the Delphi on the baggers, if you looked at Sales Literature and then at Owners Manuals there was conflicting information as far as primary ratios for different versions was concerned.
Click and read:
http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/tw...t-gearing.html
In 2002 HD introduced the Delphi EFI throttle body and HD went back to the 3.15 gearing for EFI bikes, while the carb bikes continued to run 3.15 gearing as well,, thus all Touring Bikes from 2002 to 2006 for sure have 3.15 gearing.
IF your bike falls between 2002 and 2006 and is a touring framed bike then you have a Compensating Sprocket with 25 Teeth HD# 40308-94 and you have a Clutch Shell Basket HD# 37707-98A which is a 36 Tooth Ring Gear, giving you 3.15 gearing.
The gearing of 3.37 which was placed in touring framed bikes in 1999, 2000, and 2001 Twin Cam MM EFI bikes have a Compensating Sprocket with 24 Teeth HD# 40269-85A and a Clutch Shell Basket HD# 37846-99A which is a 37 Tooth Sprocket.
Up until last year (2007) I thought I had the 3.37 gearing in my 2002 RKC (as my "owner's manual" says that I do)....it wasn't until I posted some advantages at Harley Tech Talk that I consider postives for a 2002 year model touring bike as I feel exists over other years and I mentioned the 3.37 gearing as one of those "advantages" for a 2002 Delphi EFI bike but then was informed I was incorrect. I began looking at my parts book and read my service manual and began to notice the presence of the 3.37 gearing was missing. It took calls to HD in Wisconsin to finally convince me that my 2002 Delphi EFI RKC didn't have 3.37 gearing....that is, of course, short of pulling the primary off and counting teeth....which I didn't do....it just became aparent that 3.37 gearing wasn't in the "cards".
So I tabled it, mulled it over, thought about it some more....and continued to research what I could about the "modification" and reached a conclusion that with my very mild 95" set up that I would enjoy the "bang" for the "buck" modification....
So this spring I began putting a part's list together. I haven't performed the modification myself "just yet" as of May of 2008 (but have just finished purchasing all of the parts necessary to perform the modification). After several hours of reading my 2002 service manual I have reached some conclusions about what is going on....
The directions that I have created are specific to a Road King Classic and as you will discover the part that is "specific" to a Road King Classic really is only the routing of a new clutch cable everything else is specific to any "twin cam" installation of the 3.37 gearing.
Last summer I changed my handle bars to Wild One WO515 which are the 10" baby apes and so while I am currently running the "stock" clutch cable, I see this specific modifcation the opportune time to make the change to a +2" over stock "black vinyl" clutch cable as well. The directions will take one through replacing their clutch cable, but obviously if that is not important to you it's easy to read over....just remember however that doing the clutch adjustment is very important.
I found that the Service Manual (and if you have one I am sure you would agree) is designed to deal with maintenance and replacement of parts which doesn't lend itself to a clear step by step chronological progression for doing modifcations. You end up reading a section in one place, to have to skip over to another place, to go to some where else to get it all together and while that works "ok" when reading at a desk, it's very distracting and frustrating when actually working on the bike. So whenever I do a "modification" I research it well enough to create my own directions, thus here we are. Some of you obviously do not need directions and see the "modification" as a very simple process while other's like me with the help of some "specific" directions may gain the confidence to even attempt the "modification" themselves.
Below you will see an attachement to a thread, all you need to do is click and read. I am bringing to your attention as it may have some application to this procedure, such as when to use "blue" loctite....You will see in my directions that I reference using Aviation Gasket Cement and sometimes the word "cement" can scare the heck out of someone, but....this thread will help to explain why I use what I use and where....so places where you might use say "anti~seize" I might use Aviation Gasket Cement....(except for spark plugs where I do use Anti~seize for example).
Also realize that these are directions as I see them making sense. I have cut, copied, and pasted different schematics ie: drawings and pasted them where I thought they should go, I believe the directions are clear enough that you will find really no need to reference a service manual. I did this with the idea that I could take a note book computer out to their garage and go through this step by step, or one could print the directions and work with them that way as well.
Before you purchase anything understand what you will be purchasing a 24 Tooth Compensating Sprocket HD# 40269-A which retails @ $135.00 and a 37 Tooth Clutch Shell Basket HD# 37846-99A which retails @ $320.00 (which includes the HD# 37906-90 KOYO 5207 CD3 FG Double Row Angular Contact Bearing and HD# 37905-00 which is the "Large" Retaining Ring that secures the HD #37904-90 KOYO 5207 CD3 FG Bearing into the Clutch Shell Basket). If you happen to have purchased the "Clutch Shell Basket" HD# 37846-99A "gently used / previously owned" then you may find these parts included as well depending on what the previous owner passes along to you.
SO, if you end up purchasing the Clutch Shell Basket HD# 37846-99A from HD you will now know you don't have to also buy the HD#37906-90 KOYO 5207 CDE FG Bearing, HD retail for this bearing is $62.00. On some things HD does that...you think you need this and that then you find out you only need that....lol...
Once you have purchased the Clutch Shell Basket and you have the HD# 37906-90 KOYO 5207 CD3 FG Bearing pressed into it, you will need to press the HD# 37550-98 Clutch Hub into the inner race of the HD# 37906-90 KOYO 5207 CD3 FG Bearing (don't worry this is explained more clearly in the directions) and you're good to go as you proceed through the project. HOWEVER, if in fact you have purchased the HD# 37846-99A Clutch Shell Basket [37 tooth] "gently used / previously owned" and you do see the HD# 37906-90 ball bearing remaining within the clutch shell basket, you will have a decision to make........
It seems there is very little information about what many are doing in regards to the pressing out and into the "radial" angular bearing. For your information this bearing is not an axial (thrust) bearing, thus it doesn't take much to "side load" and to ruin the bearing. So if again you are using a "gently used / previously owned" clutch shell basket which has the HD# 37906-90 Koyo 5207CD3 FG double row angular contact ball bearing already installed that would mean that the previous owner of the "clutch shell basket" pressed the "clutch hub" from or out of or away from the "clutch shell basket".
Pressing the bearing into the clutch shell basket is no problem as you introduce the pressure onto the outer race of the bearing. When you press the clutch hub into the inner race of the bearing, you support the inner race and press the clutch hub into the bearing, again no problem. However, to remove the clutch "hub" away from the bearing, there is no way to support the inner race and you can't get to the retaining ring for the outer race to remove it. Your only option is to press the clutch "hub" out of the bearing which puts significant side load on the balls and races and
MAY cause flat spots depending on the amount of pressure needed. Only as a last resort would I ever consider reusing the bearing. Thus it seems a logical thing to do which sounds extreme perhaps is to "potentially" replace the bearing.
Because I have been "gathering" parts for this "modification", I have been dealing recently with the bearing itself wondering if there might be a "better" bearing to install. Be aware that there are many choices for different bearings. HD chose to obviously "cool" / "lubricate" the bearing via the primary fluid being "slushed" on to it as the bearing is actually an "open faced" or "unsealed" bearing. The HD# 37906-90 KOYO 5207 CD3 FG Double Row Angular Contact Ball Bearing is considered a "PHENOLIC" bearing which basically identifies that the bearing has a sheet made from a resin that is a hard dense material which covers the bearings in part. If you have one of the 'bearings' in front of you, you will see a "black" shiny surface material in the center that wraps the bearing....this material is referred to as "polyamite" and serves to protect the bearing from some debrie as well as shielding it from excessive heat. I WILL say that obviously it hasn't been reported here or any other websites that I am familar with that anyone has had a "particular" problem with HD's# 37906-90 KOYO 5207 CD3 FG Bearing. After doing all of the research about different bearings to use, I have come to the conclusion to simply continue on the path with HD using the HD# 37906-90 Koyo 5207 CDE FG bearing and to purchase it from an HD dealer, perhaps using a HD 20% discount dealer to make the purchase more bearable.
So....deep breath what does all of this mean, when it comes to the bearing...it means you must reach a conclusion as to whether or not you feel it warrants changing out your bearing if you have secured a "gently used / previously owned" clutch shell basket which has the HD# 37906-90 KOYO 5207 CD3 FG Bearing currently installed. Some will say no, some will say yes, definitely. All I wanted to do was inform you of your choices and what you might consider....
Regardless of the path that you choose, be sure to PROPERLY adjust the primary chain as over tightening will cause shortened bearing life.
Here is the Thread I was referring to....Just Click and Read....I am "ClassicRider2002" at HTT with regards to the use of Aviation Gasket Cement:
http://groups.msn.com/HarleyTechTalk...73001162765620
Also note that I suggest using "rags" to lock the comp sprocket and clutch basic while removal and putting back together....while I did this a couple of years ago with my FXR2 (which by the way has many of the very same components with matching part numbers in the primary as does my 2002 Road King Classic) I recently did go to a local "iron" shop and had a actual primary tool made for $11.00 with tax (a photo of this tool is provided in the link you can click and see below)....I also went back to the same "iron" shop and had them cut a "breaker bar" out of a metal pipe approximately 36" long....(you will notice that it is referenced in the same photo journal below as well).....I also must state that I have successfully used a impact wrench before when taking off the compensating sprocket nut 1 1/2" since it is secured at 150+ ft lbs it's requires quite a bit of effort to remove it. The clutch basket nut 1 3/16" is only secured at approximately 80 ft lbs so it's not as difficult to remove and would never require the use of an impact wrench even with the use of red loctite/thread locker. I have photos of "mechanics" from American Iron Magazine using both the "rag" technique" to lock the comp sprocket as well as the clutch shell basket to remove and resecure the respected nuts. I also have similar photos from the same magazine showing the use of an impact wrench being used in the removal of the comp sprocket nut as well....so while people will 'cringe" at either of these being suggested in the "real" world they are definitely tools which are used....However, I would refrain from both if desiring to take the "most" safest path. So I finally as mentioned above "broke down" lol and went to my local "iron" shop and provided the measurements for the "primary tool" you will see below in the attached photo journal, for $11.00 I said what the heck and had one made....I was originally quoted $60.00 to have one on made on their CnC machine. I then went to the guys out in the shop and said can you do anything for me and in about 10 minutes I had what you will see in the photos like I said for $11.00. So if you haven't had one made don't be shy about being persistant if you hear a "outlandish" price....it doesn't need to be machined formed....lol, just a chop saw with a diamond blade able to cut steel and some 1 1/2" steel stock to start with....Just have them pay attention so when they cut it they don't intersect the cuts weakening the metal....(It will make sense when you see the photo).
Harley Hog's Lair who is a contributer to Harley Tech Talk has a web page that shows various "modifications" "procedures" being done to his bike, in this particular "photo thread" he is replacing a drive belt on his 2000 Road King Classic, while this is not the exact procedure you or I am preparing for he does show the use of a "specific" primary tool he made which has been mentioned many times since on HTT and referenced as a great tool to use for locking the Comp Sprocket and and the clutch basket while both removing and securing the respected nuts. (I will indeed wrap it with a thin "rag" so it doesn't scare the metal of the comp sprocket teeth or the clutch basket teeth.) He also mentions the use of a breaker bar too so just click and see, (I start this out on page 2 of his photo journal but you can go back to page 1 to the beginning if you so desire):
http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/belt%20install%202.htm
Hopefully this is helpful to others.
Regards,
"ClassicRider"
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