Fueling Oil Pump Install?

[Sleeps In Trees]

I have a superpump on the way for my '02 UG. Since I'm running TW26G gear drive cams, how much of a pain to install the pump? Any special tools needed? Haven't I read/heard something about a possibility of cracking the case when torqueing the cam cover bolts...hydro-locking em or something? How I can avoid this & any other tips on the install are much appreciated?

Thanks,

VicW.

[SYCLONE]

Originally Posted by Sleeps In Trees

I have a superpump on the way for my '02 UG. Since I'm running TW26G gear drive cams, how much of a pain to install the pump? Any special tools needed? Haven't I read/heard something about a possibility of cracking the case when torqueing the cam cover bolts...hydro-locking em or something? How I can avoid this & any other tips on the install are much appreciated?

Thanks,

VicW.

Cracking the case when re-installing the cam cover occurs when oil drips into and fills the lower bolt holes(s), especially the bottom right one. Then, since oil cant compress, as the fastener is installed and tightened, well.....
So, just spray some brake cleaner into the holes and blow them out before installing the 1/4 20's and tightening.

[LAF]

Originally Posted by SYCLONE

Cracking the case when re-installing the cam cover occurs when oil drips into and fills the lower bolt holes(s), especially the bottom right one. Then, since oil cant compress, as the fastener is installed and tightened, well.....
So, just spray some brake cleaner into the holes and blow them out before installing the 1/4 20's and tightening.

I think most who have not done this before make this mistake, especially since you can sit on a blanket without a lift in your way, and any oil comes out when you crack the cover head strait for those holes.

Get the longer set of alignment pins, if not have a friend spin the hell out of the rear wheel, after you jack it up, while you torque the screws.

I am very paranoid on a summping oil pump and I use that method to torque my cam plate which I do first.

I use HEAVY silicone grease in all the o-ring crevices (thank you Brother Rick) of the pump as I assemble it, including all metal surfaces. This lubes and holds the o-rings in place nicely, especially the one that hits the cam plate.

I then use the two alignment tools and the two screws to just hold it to the cam plate. I insert cams, and cam plate/oil pump onto pinion and make sure all is seated, then in my brake cleaner and air cleaned holes I put all the cam plate bolts in to hand tight. I then have someone spin the rear wheel as I torque to pattern, moving up to desired torque over a few patterns. Then spin the rear wheel as I torque the alignment pins and the the two screws to a lower torque then final, remove the alignment pins and torque the last two to lower spec,using alternating pattern, while spinning the rear wheel, then use the pattern to specified spec, again all the time spinning the wheel.

Plenty of assembly lube on the gyrators in the pump, pinion shaft, cam lobes.

I am just way paranoid on stuff............. Or maybe it was the way I was taught............... Too fussy for my own good

[Sleeps In Trees]

I got it SYCLONE, appreciate it! Very comprehesive description LAF, I feel like I'm finally ready to dive into the deep dark mysterious cam chest now. This place is awesome!

Thanks guys!

VicW.

[Sleeps In Trees]

I will need a small gear puller, right?

VicW.

[LittleBear]

Originally Posted by Sleeps In Trees

I will need a small gear puller, right?

VicW.

The Pinion Gear has 2 1/4-20 threaded holes in it. I believe that is the size hole and thread. You can use a steering wheel puller.

[LAF]

Originally Posted by Sleeps In Trees

I will need a small gear puller, right?

VicW.

You can use two screws in the pinion gear holes, put a piece of aluminum or something against the cam plate, turn the screws in the pinion gear going side to side and it will come off easy. Just use something behind the screws and against the cam plate so you don't scratch it up.

[BrianK]

I would also suggest using the lightest torque setting recommended for those oil pump bolts. E.g. if manual says torque to 90-120 inch-pounds, use 90 inch-pounds (with a little blue loctite).

[Sleeps In Trees]

Great info, thanks a LOT fellas!

VicW.

[pa-glazier]

If you use the 1/4 -20 bolts to remove the gear turn them only about an 1/8th of a turn at a time then move to the other bolt. If you try to turn the bolts more than this you will put more pressure on the cam plate. A piece of plastic milk jug works well between the end of the bolt and the cam plate.

[LAF]

Originally Posted by pa-glazier

If you use the 1/4 -20 bolts to remove the gear turn them only about an 1/8th of a turn at a time then move to the other bolt. If you try to turn the bolts more than this you will put more pressure on the cam plate. A piece of plastic milk jug works well between the end of the bolt and the cam plate.

Good point to make pa!!!!

It is VERY important not to cock the gear and to move to each bolt after small turns.

[Sleeps In Trees]

Well guys, the superpump showed up today & what a fine looking pc it is! It came w/o-rings & all. If it works half as good as it looks my oil pump troubles are over.

VicW.

[Sleeps In Trees]

Hey, are any of you guys using the Baisley (LMR) spring w/the Fueling pump? What idle/cruise oil pressures can I expect w/the Fueling & either spring?

Thanks,

VicW.

[fattmann]

I have the LMR spring. 25lb idle 45lb hwy. Lifters are much more quiet.
I guess if oil press. is over 11 lbs the jets keep cooling the pistons.
no more hot pistons at stop lights in august!! ya

[Sleeps In Trees]

Okee dokee, between company today I got the new pump installed. Have everything back together up to the lifters, & will put the pushrods in & air cleaner back on tomorrow. After dumping 1/2 tq of oil thru the lifter bores & rotating engine till oil pressure guage moves, anything else I can/should do insure a good 'prime' to the new pump?

Thanks,

VicW.