Howling noise on right side when hot '06 RKC

[Ned69]

I hope someone can help with this. My '06 Road King develops a howling type noise on the left side, sounds like it comes from the primary area. It only does it when torque is off...in other words, if throttle on, it will not do it. Also, it has to be cooking hot, short rides in mild temps won't get it going. Get down the Interstate at speeds for 20 plus miles, and it starts. Most noticeable after exiting off the Interstate/Freeway, and when the clutch is pulled in, but still does it when the clutch is out (just quieter and easier to hear with clutch pulled in). Gear doesn't matter, even neutral while coasting to a stop will produce it. Fuel stops on long rides (10 to 15 minutes), and it virtually goes away until it gets cooking again.
I thought my dealer was going to be able to hear it this weekend, I made a good ride, 35 miles or so, and stopped at an exit and called the service writer to let him know I'd be there in 5 minutes (we discussed doing this a few days earlier). I roll up and he is busy somewhere else, so a different service writer takes my bike, and drives into the shop, stops it and looks at the belt. He says, I think the belt is too tight. He says, give me 45 minutes, and we should have it back to you. I'm thinking either he can feel the belt and is pretty sure that's what was causing it, or someone is going to jump on it and test drive it. Well, a technician does take it for a test ride, after it sits there a half hour. Comes back after a few miles, says sounds good to me and everything is okay.
Dagummit! I've wasted two hours and got no where. Communication is key, and obviously it wasn't working on this visit to the dealer. Short of going thru this again, and hoping I can ride up and a tech hop on it while it's still hot and cooking, and he would only have to go around the block to hear the noise....does anyone have an idea what this may be?? I was hoping the belt issue was going to be the solution, but apparently its okay.
I originally thought it was a bearing squeal type noise, but now I'm not sure.

Thanks to all for any help.

[pa-glazier]

Sounds like it could be the primary tensioner may be to tight. Did they check it? It would only take the a couple of minuets.

[tlewis]

Process of elimination:

clutch needs adjustment
primary chain or belt too tight
inner primary bearing

Definitely sounds like primary chain too tight. Your description sound like the textbook case for that.

Nevermind the tech riding it. Just do this:

1) The bike should be on a lift, with the rear wheel off the ground

2) Pull the spark plugs, and put the transmission in fifth gear

3) Remove the primary inspection cover (4 T-27 screws)

4) Get a steel or rigid plastic ruler

5) Place the flat back of the ruler on the bottom edge of the primary inspection cover opening; angling the ruler so that one end of it contacts the outer edge of the upper strand of the primary chain. The other end of the ruler will be sticking down and out of the inspection hole.

6) Note what measurement on your ruler is at the edge of the hole

7) Push up on the ruler, so it pushes the chain up. When the chain stops moving up, note the measurement, and determine how much slack you have.

8) Rotate the rear wheel of the bike, so you can check the slack in several spots.

9) Determine the need to adjust based upon the slack at the tightest spot you find.

10) The specs call for 5/8” to 7/8” slack cold, and 3/8” to 5/8” hot. I always just remember that I want 5/8”

11) If adjustment is necessary, use a 9/16” inch socket, on a long extension to loosen the nut that secures the adjusting shoe rack to the pinion behind it. Only loosen it, do not remove it completely. By using the long extension, you’ll have a sort of handle to help you move the rack up and down. Usually moving it one tooth is all you need. Snug it down, and recheck your adjustment. If it’s right, tighten it to the proper torque.

12) Replace the cover and gasket, tightening the screws in an “X” sequence to 90 in/lbs.

Harris

[sbeamer]

I too have this sort of noise in my 04. The first time I noticed it, we were on our first trip with this bike. 500 mi. later, I have a "howel" in the primary. But mine only makes noise @ idle. Warmed up or hot does'nt matter. My primary is adjusted perfectly. But I do notice the primary chain does seem to stetch or loosen about every 5000 mi. My old evo motor has 53,000 mi. and the chain has NEVER needed an adjustment!!! I check it once a year during it's annual fluid,tire,and check everything schedule. It never has been moved in 10 yrs. I don't know what's different on the Twin Cams.

[Ned69]

I don't think your '04 is the same as this. Mine doesn't make this noise unless the bike is moving, and only as described in orig post.

[Mcfly]

Originally Posted by Harris

Definitely sounds like primary chain too tight. Your description sound like the textbook case for that.

Nevermind the tech riding it. Just do this:

1) The bike should be on a lift, with the rear wheel off the ground

2) Pull the spark plugs, and put the transmission in fifth gear

3) Remove the primary inspection cover (4 T-27 screws)

4) Get a steel or rigid plastic ruler

5) Place the flat back of the ruler on the bottom edge of the primary inspection cover opening; angling the ruler so that one end of it contacts the outer edge of the upper strand of the primary chain. The other end of the ruler will be sticking down and out of the inspection hole.

6) Note what measurement on your ruler is at the edge of the hole

7) Push up on the ruler, so it pushes the chain up. When the chain stops moving up, note the measurement, and determine how much slack you have.

8) Rotate the rear wheel of the bike, so you can check the slack in several spots.

9) Determine the need to adjust based upon the slack at the tightest spot you find.

10) The specs call for 5/8” to 7/8” slack cold, and 3/8” to 5/8” hot. I always just remember that I want 5/8”

11) If adjustment is necessary, use a 9/16” inch socket, on a long extension to loosen the nut that secures the adjusting shoe rack to the pinion behind it. Only loosen it, do not remove it completely. By using the long extension, you’ll have a sort of handle to help you move the rack up and down. Usually moving it one tooth is all you need. Snug it down, and recheck your adjustment. If it’s right, tighten it to the proper torque.

12) Replace the cover and gasket, tightening the screws in an “X” sequence to 90 in/lbs.

Harris

Another thing to take a look at is rear pully/belt allignment I had a similar sound on my RoadKing that was due to the rear wheel being slightly "off".

[Chief RDMaster]

Originally Posted by Ned69

I don't think your '04 is the same as this. Mine doesn't make this noise unless the bike is moving, and only as described in orig post.

All good replies but i`m leaning toward the belt, i`ve heard the noise the clutch can make if the primary chain is too tight but it should be doing it while not moving also.
I had a bike that the belt would squeal so bad you would swear a bearing was going out, took it to the dealer and they drove it, tore the primary, clutch all off trying to find it. The whole time i said spray some belt dressing on the belt and see if it quits, after they couldn`t find anything they did what i said and guess what no noise.
I would suggest getting some belt dressing, not as a fix put it will tell you if the noise is the belt or not. If the noise goes away then you have a tension alignment issue to resolve.
Good luck.

[JamieWG]

If the rear wheel is out of vertical alignment it can cause belt squealing issues. The rear pulley has to be on the same vertical plane as the front pulley or a twist is induced into the belt. The swingarm is mounted off the tranny, so an engine that needs to be aligned is the root of the problem.

[YankeeBob]

Another one who uses a made up alphabet.
Is your bike an FLHRCI or an FLHRSI? RKC can be confusing.

[Ned69]

It is an FLHRCI.