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03-18-2005, 09:51 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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New Guy
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 3
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compression release options
hey,
just picked up a 2004 FXSTB from a dealership mechanic. he juiced the motor up pretty good, but didn't drill the heads for compression releases (go figure).
the bike has SE-258 Cams, Crane Adjustable Pushrods, 1550 Cylinders Bored over .005, SE .005 over High Compression Pistons, .060 milled off of Heads (all clearances checked and within spec of HD), Port and Polished Heads, Stainless Steel 1 Piece Valves withs High Performance Valve Springs, Performance Clutch Spring, Vance and Hines Sideshot exhaust, SE Air Cleaner Kit, and SE-ignition module.
supposedly the bike has 11:1 compression, which is a little higher than i might have done myself, but the bike runs on pump gas.
for whatever reason, when the guy was doing the motor work he didn't drill the heads for compression releases. i assume (tell me if i'm wrong) that i will need compression releases.
so what i am trying to figure out is how to go about getting them in there. there is always the full price route of having the dealer take apart the motor and drill the heads, but i had heard that there might be other options. particularly one of the parts guys was talking about a tool that screws into the spark plug holes and allows the heads to be drilled while on the bike. anyone out there heard of this? opinions?
should that be all i need to do, or would i want a high power starter and battery too? i should note that i'm not having problems with the bike right now, but don't want the starter to fry in the middle of nowhere..
thanks,
g
PS: In an effort to be nicer to the neighbors i picked up a set of quiet baffles from Vance & Hines. they look pretty restrictive to me.. they are actually solid at the end with holes drilled around the outside. i don't want to put them on if they totally restrict the bike. anyone know?
Last edited by gerry81611 : 03-18-2005 at 09:56 PM.
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03-18-2005, 10:22 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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VTF Site Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Maine
Posts: 7,044
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A lot of people run compression releases that don't even need them. At 11:1 you are on the edge. But if your bike starts and runs fine, you should be OK. Worst case, you might someday need a hill to start it to get home but I dought that the starter would outright fail with no prior signs.
You could install compression releases with the heads on the bike. The alignment tool is bolted to the top of the head, with the rocker covers removed. The process then drills and spot faces the hole with a single "drill" bit. Then you can tap the hole and clean all the aluminum chips out of the threads. The very last drill is a small (only about 1/16") drill bit that breaks threw the combustion chamber. Such a small hole would only drop a few small aluminum chips that would easily be digestable by the motor.
If it were my bike, I would take a wait and see attitude. And look for any signs of failure BEFORE it strands you.
Good luck, Sounds like a nice ride
__________________
What do I know, I ride a Shovel
207-621-8089
Last edited by springer- : 03-18-2005 at 10:50 PM.
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03-19-2005, 12:09 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Hellbound Train
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Baton Rouge Louisiana
Posts: 5,592
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I would recommend comp releases on 10.5-1 or over. I would also pull the heads.
__________________
Chuck Soday
GO FAST
'03 FXSTBI 103" Stroker
112 hp -- 121 tq
100% S.E.
My V Twin Gallery
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03-19-2005, 12:27 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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VTF Site Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Maine
Posts: 7,044
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by csoday
I would recommend comp releases on 10.5-1 or over. I would also pull the heads.
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I'm with him, I would pull the heads too 
__________________
What do I know, I ride a Shovel
207-621-8089
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03-19-2005, 01:16 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: CA
Posts: 646
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You can pull the tank and the top and lower rocker boxes and you can get it done on some bikes, and using some grease on the end of the 1/16 inch drill, ( I like to go slightly larger ) you can stop 99% or more of the contamination from getting in the cylinder, however I prefer them off the bike. I'll go you one better. You pull the heads and bring them to me on my day off and I will cut the compression release holes for you for free, but we have to set this up so I can bring home a tool. Email me if your interested. I am 55 miles East of you. Hows that for board co-operation? My theroy on compression releases, why not? At any compression. They don't hurt anything, and reduce wear and tear on your starter and battery.
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Nostalgia
If its too loud
Your too old
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03-19-2005, 12:27 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: connecticut
Posts: 2,572
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I believe that SPYKE makes a new gadget that screws right into the existing plug hole and the plug screws into the gadget. No extra drilling or head removal required. Not sure if Twinkie, EVO or both, but check it out.
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03-19-2005, 12:39 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Ironbutt
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: O'fallon, IL
Posts: 5,130
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by GRock
I believe that SPYKE makes a new gadget that screws right into the existing plug hole and the plug screws into the gadget. No extra drilling or head removal required. Not sure if Twinkie, EVO or both, but check it out.
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http://www.wildwestcc.com/100248.html
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Current bikes in the stable:
2009 Street Glide
2003 Heritage Softail Classic
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03-19-2005, 07:27 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Seasoned Rider
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: On the grassy knoll.
Posts: 51
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Quick question... I've seen a few bikes with comp release (blue button)
How are they operated? Do you push them down or pull them up to start?
Disco
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The man on the grassy knoll.
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03-19-2005, 08:23 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: In the country, Wisconsin
Posts: 4,454
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by disco
Quick question... I've seen a few bikes with comp release (blue button)
How are they operated? Do you push them down or pull them up to start?
Disco
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Push them in to start. They pop out automaticaly when started.
__________________
'04 Brilliant Silver FLHRSI
"I've always been crazy but it's kept me from goin' insane." WJ
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03-20-2005, 01:31 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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New Guy
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the input guys, and thanks for the offer Jeff!
Pulling the heads is still a little ambitious for me, but not out of the question..
For now I am going to ride a bit more and watch how the bike starts hot and cold.
I found a reputable shop in the east bay that will pull the heads and drill the compression releases for about $600 including all parts. Thats less than half of what the stealer quoted, and better than the 20 hours i bet it will take me to pull and replace the heads since it would be my first time doing it. The shop has their own dyno and machine shop, so they don't send that stuff out.
Thanks for all the help!
g
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03-20-2005, 02:37 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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VTF Site Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Maine
Posts: 7,044
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$600.00 is a lot for compression releases. We install compression releases with polished buttons for $140. That includes the compression releases !! Can't be more than 4 hours labor to R&R the heads. Then add the cost of a top end gasket set. 600 sounds expensive to me. I'd consider Jeff's offer. IMHO
__________________
What do I know, I ride a Shovel
207-621-8089
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03-20-2005, 02:55 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Nice to ride again :-)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: PA
Posts: 1,802
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by springer-
$600.00 is a lot for compression releases. We install compression releases with polished buttons for $140. That includes the compression releases !! Can't be more than 4 hours labor to R&R the heads. Then add the cost of a top end gasket set. 600 sounds expensive to me. I'd consider Jeff's offer. IMHO
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You can say that again..................
__________________
07 BMW K 1200 LT
Biarritz Blue Metallic
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03-20-2005, 03:30 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,279
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Quote PS: In an effort to be nicer to the neighbors i picked up a set of quiet baffles from Vance & Hines. they look pretty restrictive to me.. they are actually solid at the end with holes drilled around the outside. i don't want to put them on if they totally restrict the bike. anyone know?Quote
When my bike only had a cam I tried the quiet baffles. They were somewhat
quieter at idle and lower rpms. When I got on the gas the difference in
sound wasn't that much different. I did not have to re-map and the bike ran
good.
Now the bike is 95", extensive head and intake work. I had the stock baffles
in for mapping mainly because I would have had to drill a hole in the baffles
for the oxygen sensor. Then I tried the "quiets" again. The engine was not
nearly as smooth. Plugs showed very rich condition. Went back to stock.
A word of caution: If you put the quiet baffles in they are a real *****
to remove as the packing will bunch up.
Last edited by nvsteve : 03-20-2005 at 04:43 PM.
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03-20-2005, 03:35 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: connecticut
Posts: 2,572
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Gerry,
Are you telling me that the dealer is looking for over $1200 to R&R heads, and drill and install comp releases?????? That's stretching it even for them!! Wow! The floggings just keep on coming, don't they?? Incredible! Jeff S. makes a very generous offer.
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03-20-2005, 04:35 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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VTF Site Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Maine
Posts: 7,044
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by GRock
Gerry,
Are you telling me that the dealer is looking for over $1200 to R&R heads, and drill and install comp releases?????? That's stretching it even for them!! Wow! The floggings just keep on coming, don't they?? Incredible! Jeff S. makes a very generous offer.
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I was thinking ...
$199 for round trip airfare
$200 for labor
$140 to bring and install them
Pick me up at the airport, I'm going on a paid vacation !!!
j/k
Other than the fact that I won't get on a plane, I could fly there and still be cheaper !!
__________________
What do I know, I ride a Shovel
207-621-8089
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