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Old 04-09-2010, 05:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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oil pump

Well the oil pump went south on my 2002 electra classic. The dealer says 328.00 dollars for a new one but it will take two weeks to get it. There has to be a faster way. Have looked on ebay but not sure what I am looking at. Some of the prices there are under 200 dollars but are they junk? Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 04-09-2010, 06:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would be more curious as to why it went bad, broken gear? broken wave washer? or a slipped crank?
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Old 04-09-2010, 06:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Call an indi with an S&S dealer account. Have them order it second day.
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Old 04-09-2010, 06:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I suggest, if crank is good, that it' maybe time to upgrade to the conversion setup. Get rid of the spring tensioners and go to the newer oil pump.
Peace of mind afterwards.
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Old 04-09-2010, 08:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Broken wave washer I think. It was all over the inside of the chest cavity. What a mess. The crank seems to be ok. Will know more when I get it cleaned up and do a runout. The rear tenshioner was almost gone. I wish I could afford to change it out but not in the cards right now. Thanks
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Old 04-09-2010, 08:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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(Tensioner) they moved the keys again sorry
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Old 04-09-2010, 08:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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For that kind of money I would hope you are not getting a stock replacement pump. You can get a Feuling pump for that much or as Blkfalc4 said, upgrade to the new style pump, plate and tensioners.
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yea do not buy a Stock pump for that much, a Fueling would be a much better choice and a much better piece. I have a stock pump you can have.
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheaponecoat View Post
Well the oil pump went south on my 2002 electra classic. The dealer says 328.00 dollars for a new one but it will take two weeks to get it. There has to be a faster way. Have looked on ebay but not sure what I am looking at. Some of the prices there are under 200 dollars but are they junk? Any help would be appreciated.
for that price you could have him update to the new oil pump and camplate around 365.00 but then you would need to replace the push rods too around another 165.00..but if it was my bike I would
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitram_b4 View Post
for that price you could have him update to the new oil pump and camplate around 365.00 but then you would need to replace the push rods too around another 165.00..but if it was my bike I would
Don't really have to do the pushrods, just have to pull the rockers is all.
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Old 04-10-2010, 12:22 AM   #11 (permalink)
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screaming eagle upgrade with sc cam plate and hydraulic setup with newer pump is 429.95 part number 25284-08
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for the suggestions. I got price for the pump yesterday and hit the panic button, but this morning I see you are right. For that much money do the upgrade. Thanks again
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheaponecoat View Post
Broken wave washer I think. It was all over the inside of the chest cavity. What a mess. The crank seems to be ok. Will know more when I get it cleaned up and do a runout. The rear tenshioner was almost gone. I wish I could afford to change it out but not in the cards right now. Thanks
Rear tensioner may have been the culprit, the peices may have been picked up in the pump and boom. I would ( I did over the winter) upgrade to the newer setup, better relieablity.
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Old 04-10-2010, 05:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Umm, i do not want to throw monkey wrench in the equation BUT..If your going to do the cam plate conversion to the hydraulic tensioner don't you also need to buy new cams?

The newer hydro cam tensioner uses a roller chain instead of the gear chain, that also includes the inner chain as well.

Plus, if your run-out is anywhere between .005 -.010 I would just go with the same set up that you had just for the cost saving.

The reason why I say about the run-out, the outer feeder gerotor (the thinner set against the cam plate) is thicker at the thinnest point on the earlier models. It measures @ .125" . Now the newer ones that are higher volume for the tensioners, at least the stock HD ones, (not sure on the SE or AM brands), only measure out @ .095" at the thinnest point.

Now it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out the .030" of more metal material for the oil pump will take a little more abuse from crank run out than the one that doesn't.

Now keep in mind, I'm an electrician, but its not my first day in the sand box either, and as some of you know, I'm going through the same crap myself
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Old 04-10-2010, 08:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
BUT..If your going to do the cam plate conversion to the hydraulic tensioner don't you also need to buy new cams?

The newer hydro cam tensioner uses a roller chain instead of the gear chain, that also includes the inner chain as well
The SE kit allows the pre 07 cams to be used. Cam plate uses stock bearings and the stock inner chain. You basically end up with new style pump and hyd tensioners.

Andrews or Herko's kits need to use conversion cams as the only pre 07 stock is the size of the inner cam bearings. So the cam inner journal is ground smaller than an 07+ cam.

Mike
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