compensator nut?

[jim-d]

i have a 2002 roadking and i here many people say the compensator nut has come lose on there bike, what size is the comp nut and how do you get at it, do you have to take the primery cover off to check it? and how tight should it be,impact gun or torque?
jim-d

[bcomes]

I went through this whole thing several months ago. There are a lot of posts on the subject. Some are on track and others may lead you astray. There are many factors involved as to if you should be worried about this or not. The nut is inside the outer primary cover just to the right of your left foot. You have to take the outer primary off but not the inner. There is a new service bulletin on how to torque it (don't use an impact wrench). You have to have something to keep everyting from turning (a special HD tool or an alternate from aftermarket). From memory, you take it down to about 70ft-lbs and then go another 1/4 turn but first you have to take it off, clean out all of the locktite out and put on new.

Now the rest of the story. You'll find a lot of information about "fixes" to prevent it from coming loose again. Some suggest drilling it out and putting in some shear pins while others say you should either shorten (grind down) the length of the nut (it's about 3 inches long) or put a washer between the face of the nut and the compensator. These latter suggestions are based upon the idea that the nut is bottoming out on the stator cover before it is tightening on the compensator. HD does sell a spacer washer but I learned after the fact (after using it) that the spacer is for bikes with the large stator (versus a smaller one). It is not to be used in all cases. I added the spacer and haven't had any problems but do have visions of the stator cover being a bit loose in there as the end of the nut is pulled away from the face of the stator cover.....but my compensator is for sure tight.

To the best of my knowledge, HD has NO service bulletins addressing the loose nut other than the revised torquing procedure; i.e. no mention of the washer.

So, if I had to do it over, I'd pass on the washer, put an extra drop of locktite (the instructions call for two drops of red (a special red that has a number I could only find at HD).

There's lots of details I could round up for you (the servce bulletin number, where you can get the special tool - it's maybe $20-$30, the locktite number, the width of the spacer washer and part number,....) but will only do that if you are serious about tearing into it. Let me know what you decide.

My suggestion is that if you don't hear a strange noise from this area of the bike, ride on and don't worry about it.

Brad

[SAFXDL]

And above all...get a service manual!

[bruggy55]

On the 2002 Road King the .020 thick spacer washer is supposed to be there. It shows it in the service manual. (this is used with the 38 amp rotor ONLY,which is what the 2002 Road King calls for). In the 2002 Service Manual it calls for 150 - 165 ft/ lbs of torque. They came out with the new torquing proceedure in 2003. I believe that you torque the nut to 75 ft/lbs, then draw a line on the nut and turn it another 35 to 40 degrees. Note I said degrees. I don't know why they changed the proceedure. I'm wondering if it had anything to do with the fact that in 2003 they switched from the timken bearing to the roller bearing on the crank. Anyway the most important part of the torquing operation is making sure the threads of the nut and the shaft threads are clean, clean, clean of old locktite and residue, and are completely degreased. I used spray type brake clean to remove the oil film. Put a couple drops of oil under the head of the nut, where the nut pushes against the outside shell of the compensator. Put two drops of #262 red loctite on the threads of the crankshaft, install the compensator assembley and nut, torque the nut to 150 - 165 ft/lbs.
Goog luck!
Bruggy55

[HDWRENCH]

Funny thing ... we use digital tq wrenchs here in our shop so I know what the final tq really is. I have seen that spec all over the place some times over the old spec others under. Oil on the bolt amount the bolt/threads allow for stretch. Since these are not a tq to yeild type fastener unsure as to why they went this route. But then again they did some time ago with heads bolts then change that specs as well.

Spotless clean threads, plain old red loc tite from auto parts store, one used nylon screw driver handle( wedge in the top between chain and teeth) 1/2 inch tq wrench , now if you want to take it a step further by the 7070 prep / and the primer for the loctite. We do and use the old method with engines making over 140 tq never had one come loose or come back for coming loose.

Acatone is the best cleaner as it leaves nothing behind once it drys. Cleaning the nut threads out on the nut can be tricky, I have a thread chaser i made from a old evo crank sprocket.

[Mtclassic]

Originally Posted by HDWRENCH

Funny thing ... we use digital tq wrenchs here in our shop so I know what the final tq really is. I have seen that spec all over the place some times over the old spec others under. Oil on the bolt amount the bolt/threads allow for stretch. Since these are not a tq to yeild type fastener unsure as to why they went this route. But then again they did some time ago with heads bolts then change that specs as well.

Spotless clean threads, plain old red loc tite from auto parts store, one used nylon screw driver handle( wedge in the top between chain and teeth) 1/2 inch tq wrench , now if you want to take it a step further by the 7070 prep / and the primer for the loctite. We do and use the old method with engines making over 140 tq never had one come loose or come back for coming loose.

Acatone is the best cleaner as it leaves nothing behind once it drys. Cleaning the nut threads out on the nut can be tricky, I have a thread chaser i made from a old evo crank sprocket.

I know with the new way mine has to be over 200 ft/lbs. I have a 150 tq wrench and it clicks way before I reach the proper degrees.