here is a post i did a few months ago...when i changed my ISCA.
So if you have already got a new ISCA then forget all the remove fuse, remove battery tricks...it is worthless.
IIRC...my mind slips first thing in the morning...once you have the ISCA installed and you bike is cold (you may need to leave it sit over night) you can accurately adjust the cold idle setting. As I stated in the post (link above) all the idle settings are mechanical...adjusting a set screw. Again...going from a failing memory...on the cold idle,
-Remove the air cleaner and backing plate.
-Turn the butterfly open with your hand to reveal the cold idle screw. It takes a small torx...maybe a 10 or so...
-with a cold...i mean cold...bike...if you can leave it in the cold over night (outside on a cold night), you will have more time to play with the idle as it takes the bike engine longer to get to operating temp.
-crank the bike and see where the idle rpm is. Move the set screw to get it to around 1500 - 1700 rpm when cold. Remember the longer you run the bike the warmer it is getting...so do this quick.
-once you get the cold set then let the bike warm up..it may take 10 minutes or so.
-now you can adjust the warm idle screw. This set screw is located on the front portion of the throttle body...sort of behind where the backing plate mounts. In fact there is a hole in the backing plate to access the screw.
-Adjust warm idle to 1000 - 1100 rpm. Rule of thumb...with the air cleaner off adjust the warm idle 100 rpm higher than you need. Once you put the AC back on the slight air flow restriction will bring the rpm down a bit.
Now this procedure has worked for me on a couple different bikes. So forget the previous post i made...it is very frustrating. Also note that if you changed the ISCA you should have also got in the kit the little part with the ball bearing on it...make sure you changed it as well. That bearing will go bad and not allow the butterfly to open properly.
I hope this helps.