I have a 2001 EG Ultra with 60K +- miles. Hard to be accurate on this miles as this is the 3rd speedometer...long story...
Anyhow, I have had the "typical" warm/cold idle issues with my M-M for some time now. Once in a while, like most M-M the warm idle would just stop remembering what it is supposed to be set to.
A couple weeks ago the cold idle started the same thing. Bike would hardly run first thing in the morning. I spent a couple afternoons troubleshooting and was at wits end. i had searched the WWW to find some info on this issue. See, the old, remove the fuse, rested the idle, etc, etc, etc was not working. So finally, i figured out the problem...the idle speed control actuator was faulty. ISCA for short. This little contraption is the key to getting the M-M idle set correctly. If it is bad then you can adjust the idle all you want and the bike will still run like crap...bad starting, low idle, popping on decel, etc...nearly all your efi issues...except for leaks can be contributed to this jewel.
The ISCA engages once you turn on the ignition switch. It makes the EFI open up then slightly close based on the engine temp. I am not sure if the delphi EFI has it, but on all M-M efi, look directly behind the air cleaner cover, once you switch the bike on...while you are waiting for the engine light to turn off, look down to the top of the EFI throttle body and the ISCA will do a little dance moving the throttle out-in-back out, etc for a couple seconds. When it detects the proper settings based on the engine temp it will stabilize. Well, my ISCA was not doing this dance. Sure, i could get the warm idle set, but then the cold idle was way off and vice-verse. The ISCA coast 90$ or so and takes about an hour to remove & install. Then another 20 minutes or so getting the idle settings back in place. After I put the new ISCA on my cold idle was 2500 rpm. Talk about out of whack.
A couple things I noticed while trying to find some information about my issue...I hope I don't step on any toes, but there is some mis-information out there on the M-M...mainly because it is hard to find any mechanic at the H-D shop that has even seen a M-M efi and one that had actually worked on one is even more rare...an indy shop is generally the best place to find a mechanic that knows about a M-M...i digress.
-if the ISCA is faulty there is no need to tinker with the idle speed settings...warm or cold. You are not fixing the problem just masking the symptoms.
-manually adjusting the idle screws does not require removing the battery cable or the fuses. This is a mechanical setting. The set screws are the stop limits to the throttle and are not electrically based, but a physical stop.
-do not adjust the throttle position sensor...has epoxy in the screw holes...this should be used as a last resort and unless you have the proper tools to check the efi voltage, you can really screw up the efi.
-make sure you don't have any leaks. A squirt of carb clear will find a leak real fast.
-a properly adjust M-M efi upon a complete cold start will run at 1500 rpms for a couple seconds then back to 1200 rpms then back to the warm settings, about 1000 rpms...of course, based on outside temps as well. You should not have to romp on the throttle to get the rpms to release...
My bike runs better now, gets better gas mileage and runs at 300 less rpms at 60 mph than before...thus the better gas mileage.
There is some good info on this site from other that have had M-M issues. And I ready one post that stated if you own a M-M efi HD then you had better learn to work on it...I agree, most new bike mechanics are clueless to anything that is older than 2005. Damn, i would hate to ride into the hd shop on a shovelhead needing services...LOL. Anyhow, maybe this will help someone else doen the road. I think my next tool will be the EFI breakout voltage box...