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Old 09-16-2012, 10:51 AM   #16 (permalink)
IronButt
 
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Krayven Sumhead wants to know Dino or Syn?
I've backed out jammed and broken EZ out's by using a tempered flat punch and tapping rather briskly.

Soaked the pi$$ outta the EZ out before beginning with lots of penetrating oil.

Uless you have a jig, drill bits are gonna slide right off the EZ out, seeking the softer metal.

Then you got big problems.

Last edited by Krayven Sumhead; 09-16-2012 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:36 AM   #17 (permalink)
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LowRiderCustom wants to know Dino or Syn?
Krayven a carbide tipped drill will go right through a broken easy out or a broken tap.

Chad use an easy out to remove the broken bolt from the engine block. Just make sure you center punch the bolt as close to the center as possible.
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Old 09-16-2012, 12:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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And above all dont forget to use heat to loosen any locktite or rust before removal !!
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:25 AM   #19 (permalink)
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honda2harley wants to know Dino or Syn?
When trying to change out my pipes after I heat wrapped them, I had to remove 3 of my exhaust port studs! 2 studs came out because the nut wouldn't come off and instead just unscrewed the whole damn stud, the other one broke off and nothing was working to get it out, including the ez-out removers. So I had to drill it out. About a 1/4 inch into it, the drill bit broke off in the stud! I learned later that it was because I was applying to much pressure and drilling at too high of speed. Then it became a huge disaster and I couldn't get through it. I tried a few different things and finally started makings some progress with some cobalt bits and then finally punched through with some new cobalt bits that were sharper. Eventually I got it all set and re-tapped the hole and put in some Heliciol replacement threads.

Now, problem is that the new hole I drilled and the new stud, didn't go in the exact same spacing and angle as the stock set, so the exhaust flange didn't fit. When I went to take the stud out and try to take the coils out and adjust the hole, the damn hole cracked, and actually broke off a small piece from the bottom of the exhaust port stud hole!

So how do I repair this? Is the exhaust port made of aluminum? JB Weld did not work.

This problem is on the rear exhaust port on the bottom rear stud hole. 2010 Sportster.

Seemed simple enough and turned into a disaster!!
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:12 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda2harley View Post
When trying to change out my pipes after I heat wrapped them, I had to remove 3 of my exhaust port studs! 2 studs came out because the nut wouldn't come off and instead just unscrewed the whole damn stud, the other one broke off and nothing was working to get it out, including the ez-out removers. So I had to drill it out. About a 1/4 inch into it, the drill bit broke off in the stud! I learned later that it was because I was applying to much pressure and drilling at too high of speed. Then it became a huge disaster and I couldn't get through it. I tried a few different things and finally started makings some progress with some cobalt bits and then finally punched through with some new cobalt bits that were sharper. Eventually I got it all set and re-tapped the hole and put in some Heliciol replacement threads.

Now, problem is that the new hole I drilled and the new stud, didn't go in the exact same spacing and angle as the stock set, so the exhaust flange didn't fit. When I went to take the stud out and try to take the coils out and adjust the hole, the damn hole cracked, and actually broke off a small piece from the bottom of the exhaust port stud hole!

So how do I repair this? Is the exhaust port made of aluminum? JB Weld did not work.

This problem is on the rear exhaust port on the bottom rear stud hole. 2010 Sportster.

Seemed simple enough and turned into a disaster!!
A dealer take off head would be the easy, cheap way to go. You can wield up the whole mess and start over also. Wire wield the stud hole and broken port. Machine port to shape. Locate stud hole by using exhaust flange to position drill for stud hole .


A machine shop could do all this for you, but I'm betting it's cheaper to get a take-off head. The next time you try to remove exhaust bolts, I'm betting you will use LOTS of penetrating oil first.




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