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Old 09-16-2012, 10:51 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I've backed out jammed and broken EZ out's by using a tempered flat punch and tapping rather briskly.

Soaked the pi$$ outta the EZ out before beginning with lots of penetrating oil.

Uless you have a jig, drill bits are gonna slide right off the EZ out, seeking the softer metal.

Then you got big problems.

Last edited by Krayven Sumhead; 09-16-2012 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:36 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Krayven a carbide tipped drill will go right through a broken easy out or a broken tap.

Chad use an easy out to remove the broken bolt from the engine block. Just make sure you center punch the bolt as close to the center as possible.
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Old 09-16-2012, 12:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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And above all dont forget to use heat to loosen any locktite or rust before removal !!
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:25 AM   #19 (permalink)
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When trying to change out my pipes after I heat wrapped them, I had to remove 3 of my exhaust port studs! 2 studs came out because the nut wouldn't come off and instead just unscrewed the whole damn stud, the other one broke off and nothing was working to get it out, including the ez-out removers. So I had to drill it out. About a 1/4 inch into it, the drill bit broke off in the stud! I learned later that it was because I was applying to much pressure and drilling at too high of speed. Then it became a huge disaster and I couldn't get through it. I tried a few different things and finally started makings some progress with some cobalt bits and then finally punched through with some new cobalt bits that were sharper. Eventually I got it all set and re-tapped the hole and put in some Heliciol replacement threads.

Now, problem is that the new hole I drilled and the new stud, didn't go in the exact same spacing and angle as the stock set, so the exhaust flange didn't fit. When I went to take the stud out and try to take the coils out and adjust the hole, the damn hole cracked, and actually broke off a small piece from the bottom of the exhaust port stud hole!

So how do I repair this? Is the exhaust port made of aluminum? JB Weld did not work.

This problem is on the rear exhaust port on the bottom rear stud hole. 2010 Sportster.

Seemed simple enough and turned into a disaster!!
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:12 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda2harley View Post
When trying to change out my pipes after I heat wrapped them, I had to remove 3 of my exhaust port studs! 2 studs came out because the nut wouldn't come off and instead just unscrewed the whole damn stud, the other one broke off and nothing was working to get it out, including the ez-out removers. So I had to drill it out. About a 1/4 inch into it, the drill bit broke off in the stud! I learned later that it was because I was applying to much pressure and drilling at too high of speed. Then it became a huge disaster and I couldn't get through it. I tried a few different things and finally started makings some progress with some cobalt bits and then finally punched through with some new cobalt bits that were sharper. Eventually I got it all set and re-tapped the hole and put in some Heliciol replacement threads.

Now, problem is that the new hole I drilled and the new stud, didn't go in the exact same spacing and angle as the stock set, so the exhaust flange didn't fit. When I went to take the stud out and try to take the coils out and adjust the hole, the damn hole cracked, and actually broke off a small piece from the bottom of the exhaust port stud hole!

So how do I repair this? Is the exhaust port made of aluminum? JB Weld did not work.

This problem is on the rear exhaust port on the bottom rear stud hole. 2010 Sportster.

Seemed simple enough and turned into a disaster!!
A dealer take off head would be the easy, cheap way to go. You can wield up the whole mess and start over also. Wire wield the stud hole and broken port. Machine port to shape. Locate stud hole by using exhaust flange to position drill for stud hole .


A machine shop could do all this for you, but I'm betting it's cheaper to get a take-off head. The next time you try to remove exhaust bolts, I'm betting you will use LOTS of penetrating oil first.




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Old 03-03-2016, 07:31 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Well. To put this simply. After work I got a phone call from my father in law. He had a sick day off today. Decided he felt a little better and just had to tinker in the garage. Said he was gunna swap exhausts on his 1993 FXR. Front cyl came off no issues. Goes to rear. Bottom stud nut comes of. Top one just spins in his hands. He asks himself "WTF??" Pulls the broken stud with ease. It is about 1/16 to 1/8 INSIDE the head.

A.) ez out? Have a set on hand but seem like trouble at times.
B.) drill out and heli coil
C.) weld a nut & turn out
D.) machine shop
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Old 03-03-2016, 07:51 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Weld a nut could be good, the heat might help break it free. If that makes it break off closer, get one of the stud drilling kits (rent/borrow) and drill it out.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:20 PM   #23 (permalink)
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This is the picture of the rear jug and as you can see its flush maybe a half a thread in. I'm telling ya everything the guy touches ends up kicking his a$$. Poor bastard.

Seeing this makes me want to check mine
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:59 PM   #24 (permalink)
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BOUTYM is reading this now saying WTF is this?
I never try to remove the nut from a stud without a good soaking with penetrating oil (PB being my favorite). How often I apply it and wait depends on how long it's been since it was last removed and how it looks. I've had some that I would spray a couple times a day for 2 or 3 days. After the wait I heat them up. If they're big nuts I heat them with the big boy torch. If they're smaller such as exhaust stud nuts I'll use a small handheld propane torch. Never had one break off using this method.
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:15 PM   #25 (permalink)
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tall terry is reading this now saying WTF is this?
There is a drill guide made for this. Soak it in penetrating oil good, several times, bolt the tool up, center punch it. Use a left hand drill bit go slowly it may catch and spin the stud out. Us a slow, gear reduced drill that turns maybe 4-500 rpm's. High speed is what breaks the drill bits off..
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:09 AM   #26 (permalink)
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There are also left handed drill bits at your local hardware store center punch in the center. Read online about them.
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:24 AM   #27 (permalink)
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On the collector car sites I frequent, most weld a heavy washer on the stud, weld a nut to the washer and then melt candle wax ( while heating up the stud) into the threads of the broken stud...

I have never done this but the people who have swear by it... Thought I would pass it along.....
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:41 AM   #28 (permalink)
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tall terry is reading this now saying WTF is this?
The stud isn't hardened or bottomed, once it starts moving it will come right out...that one is broken perfectly...use a 1/8" left hand cobalt bit, for a pilot hole, followed by a 3/16 cobalt bit, both left hand...use a slow drill motor, a 1/2" gear reduction torquey drill. Soak with penetrating oil. Usually the bit will catch and back the stud out... the guide plate for broken studs is the best tool to use...you may not be able to get a straight shot at the stud..sometimes, taking the head off is best...
How will the wax flow, uphill? It's a good idea, probably will work great, but????
The welding a nut on works well,, what if, the welding, melts the aluminum??? Cast aluminum just, "disappears" when it melts, be careful if you go this way.
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Old 03-04-2016, 10:18 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tall terry View Post
The stud isn't hardened or bottomed, once it starts moving it will come right out...that one is broken perfectly...use a 1/8" left hand cobalt bit, for a pilot hole, followed by a 3/16 cobalt bit, both left hand...use a slow drill motor, a 1/2" gear reduction torquey drill. Soak with penetrating oil. Usually the bit will catch and back the stud out... the guide plate for broken studs is the best tool to use...you may not be able to get a straight shot at the stud..sometimes, taking the head off is best...
How will the wax flow, uphill? It's a good idea, probably will work great, but????
The welding a nut on works well,, what if, the welding, melts the aluminum??? Cast aluminum just, "disappears" when it melts, be careful if you go this way.

First head the tool saves, pays for it several times over.

Seen a lot of heads that were all buggered up from people trying to drill hard studs out of soft aluminum.

When that stud breaks, it's usually on scooters that are missing the rear pipe hanger.
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Old 03-04-2016, 11:39 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I know from personal experience that the welding a nut on works great in steel and iron, but unless the stud protruded a few threads I would be hesitant on aluminum.

CRC has a neat product called Freeze-Off. It is a super light penetrating oil that uses a mild refrigerant as a propellant. The idea is that it thermally shocks the bound joint and the super thin penetrant wicks in through capillary action. It costs a little more, but each time I have used it there have been good results.

Terry, the wax would flow uphill using capillary action as the metal expanded/contracted. It is one of the very old school ways of getting pipe plugs out of iron blocks. An old timer showed me that when I was a rookie, and he told me that he learned it from an old timer when he was a rookie. No telling how old it is. I learned a long time ago that aluminum really wants to be a puddle on the floor if you put a torch to it. Don't as me how I know. LOL
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