Anyone running a Revolution Performance 114/124 kit? : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

arctic_mp7 · 01-27-2008, 07:03 PM

Hello all, Anyone had any dealings with the 114/124 Revolution Performance kits? We have been using cylinder coatings like that for years in snowmachines and dirtbikes. If you use the stock crank it is an over square motor. Anyone have any dyno numbers or maps for this set up? Thanks for the info.

Hollywood63 · 01-28-2008, 07:48 AM

I've had a 114 running in a customers bike for about 6000 miles. Thing runs like a raped ape. Yes with a stock stroke its over square.

arctic_mp7 · 01-28-2008, 06:21 PM

What heads/cam/fuel system is he running? My only problem is that I am stuck here in El Paso TX with no tuners around except for a 7-8 hour drive in Dallas or AZ. I have the ability and tools to do the job (Except case boring) and would be running it on a F/I 03 bagger. It has the olders S/E heads, S/E 257 cams and stock throttle body set up. I would send the heads out for porting and go with the zippers 54mm throttle body set up along with the thundermax set up. Again the hard part is finding a Dyno and tuner around here. Got to love the military they pick some great spots to station all of us.

dentman · 01-29-2008, 11:53 AM

you may find that it is not a good idea to build a 114 without splitting the cases to put a timkin in that 03 motor.

dentman · 01-29-2008, 11:57 AM

you have to send the cases out any way to be opened up for the big pistons. and you will probably have to clearance for a cam big enough for the 114'' motor. i have one and i really like it. good torque and well behaved bike. but you might want to do a search on the rp cylenders before you decide on witch kit you go with.

dentman · 01-29-2008, 12:06 PM

and you might want to figure in enough money to make your 4'' crank up to the task. that would be things like ballancing and either pluging or welding the wheels. and i also chose to put an x ring drive chain on my bagger because i know that 114 would destroy that drive belt. and make sure you get some compresion releses in those heads.

arctic_mp7 · 01-29-2008, 03:39 PM

My plan was to have the crank welded, plugged and retrued. The cases I would go with the timken conversion while I got it bored. The S/E heads have manual compression releases in them now was thinking of sending them out to Big boys for a port job. I have been running what Harley calles the 1550 High Output kit on it now with the 257 cams, high compression forged pistons. I have the S/E billet plate and High output pump in it now and am looking at a gear drive cam set up the andrews 64G or S&S 640G set up. Then a 54 mm throttle body and a heavier clutch set up. Looking to build a reliable but fun bike. The problem around here (El Paso TX) is that there are no reliable machine shops or dyno tuners around. The rest of the mechanical stuff is not a problem. I am an active duty Army Soldier but also have been working part/full time for the last 25 years as a Harley mechanic at dealerships (in between trips to the kitty box the last few years). The dealership here doesn't treat people well and I worked for them before so now I am working out of my garage or I would use their case boring tool and they only know S/E stuff. I believe AZ is the closest reliable tuner. I also worry about a base map to start out with till I can get it there. I really appreciate the input and everything helps. If you have more keep it on coming. Thanks

route66paul · 01-30-2008, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arctic_mp7

My plan was to have the crank welded, plugged and retrued. The cases I would go with the timken conversion while I got it bored. The S/E heads have manual compression releases in them now was thinking of sending them out to Big boys for a port job. I have been running what Harley calles the 1550 High Output kit on it now with the 257 cams, high compression forged pistons. I have the S/E billet plate and High output pump in it now and am looking at a gear drive cam set up the andrews 64G or S&S 640G set up. Then a 54 mm throttle body and a heavier clutch set up. Looking to build a reliable but fun bike. The problem around here (El Paso TX) is that there are no reliable machine shops or dyno tuners around. The rest of the mechanical stuff is not a problem. I am an active duty Army Soldier but also have been working part/full time for the last 25 years as a Harley mechanic at dealerships (in between trips to the kitty box the last few years). The dealership here doesn't treat people well and I worked for them before so now I am working out of my garage or I would use their case boring tool and they only know S/E stuff. I believe AZ is the closest reliable tuner. I also worry about a base map to start out with till I can get it there. I really appreciate the input and everything helps. If you have more keep it on coming. Thanks

Send the heads to the guys that specialize in BIG bores. Not to dis BigBoyz, but you need special help for a special engine.

dentman · 01-30-2008, 12:40 PM

i cam give you a few pointers, to start with when you see what those cases look like when they are bored out you may be surprised. there is almost nothing left around the studs. you have to really pay atention to making sure those studs are properly locked in. the guy who did my cases uses an acid wash of some kind and then instals the studs and bakes the cases in an oven to make sure that locktight holds up. as far as using the rp cylinders i would not do it again. they have had alot of problems with the 4.250 jugs. my first set went out of round and colapsed the pistons. rp delt with me ok i guess. they re plated my cylinders and honed them to a new set of pistons . i gaped the rings and put it back togather and it has been good now for around 7 thousand miles. i hope they work out because the plated cylinders really heat up and cool down real fast. and the motor is probably the coolest running twin cam i have had. when you set the cylinders on to the cases you might want to put a film of permatex non hardening brown gasket stuff on both sides of the base gaskets, if you dont it will weep.

arctic_mp7 · 02-03-2008, 12:51 PM

Thanks everyone after all the imput and pointers I have scrapped the 114 kit and bought a Jims 116 kit with wheels and all. I'm looking forward to building it with the same stuff justnot as radical on the case boring. Thanks again looking for any imput on this set up.

wydopn231 · 01-25-2010, 07:42 PM

Hey dentman why didnt you tell me about base gaskets sooner.Oh yea I didnt ask.100% right about them weeping.Its only probelm so far.Found some good info maybe to late well see.If thers a test for rp cylinders it is me,if they make it Ican and usually do break it.

dynajohn · 02-26-2010, 11:42 PM

I have run both a 4-1/8 bore 107 I got from Brian when he was still Nallin Racing and a 4-1/4 bore 124 setup using his cylinders built by T-Man. I had no issues with oil usage or ring seal with either setup. Both of these motors used CP pistons and CP sourced rings. Neither set of cylinders showed any of the streaking or other problems mentioned by others on this forum.

I had the T-Man heads on the 124 reworked to street hybrid spscs. in 2009 and Dan furnished a new set of unfinished CP pistons through T-Man which he machined finished to 15 degree angle top pistons to match his heads for the 124. He soursed and furnished special rings for the pistons & plated cylinders for this application.

These cylinders were originally made by Millenium Technologies not Brian Nallin.