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Old 01-18-2009, 01:19 AM   #211 (permalink)
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I am curious about the symptoms when the tensioners fall apart. My '06 was running fine up until a couple days ago. I noticed some strange vibes and an odd exhaust note first, then the bike would not idle high enough. When I plugged into it today to check it out it began running almost wide open, then dropped back down to not idling correctly. Without turning the throttle and holding it, it would not idle. Seems like the timing is off so I thought of this problem right away. It feels extremely rough when running. I have an '06 FXTBI with 15400mi. on it.
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Old 01-18-2009, 01:55 AM   #212 (permalink)
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I would think that if our tensioners were so bad that it affected the way your bike is running you would hear all kinds of noise from the cam chest or behind the timing cover. I have 06 with 55K and so far so good. I had the tensioners checked at 36K and they were good....Dealer said I should just ride it and if it fails it will be coverd under warranty.
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Old 01-18-2009, 06:10 AM   #213 (permalink)
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Just took mine down after 33K. Both tensioners had very minimal wear, front did not even have a groove worn in it but had some pitting. Rear barely had a groove starting, maybe .005. But this one also have some serious pitting. Does anyone know what causes the pitting? Been using Mobil 1 for about 15k.

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Old 02-02-2009, 04:01 AM   #214 (permalink)
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Hello, and thanks to everyone for the helpful information. I am considering the S&S gear drive system with Andrews cams but, keep hearing negative things about "crank run-out". Can anyone please explain what "crank run-out" means and why it would be a potential problem with the SS gear system? Thank you for any help in advance.

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Old 02-02-2009, 04:36 AM   #215 (permalink)
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If you dont mind my asking how much did the S&S gear drive and Andrews cams end up costing? Possibly break down parts & labor. Looking to go this route myself. Thanks for any help you can give
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Old 02-02-2009, 07:07 AM   #216 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatRod View Post
Hello, and thanks to everyone for the helpful information. I am considering the S&S gear drive system with Andrews cams but, keep hearing negative things about "crank run-out". Can anyone please explain what "crank run-out" means and why it would be a potential problem with the SS gear system? Thank you for any help in advance.
Crank run out is how much wobble you have at the end of the crank. The cranks on the twin cams are 2 piece and are pressed together. Under heavy load, like burnouts or wheelies, the cranks can shift slightly where they are pressed together causing run out. Guys that build up high hp engines, actually take the cranks out and have them trued and welded.
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Old 02-02-2009, 07:18 AM   #217 (permalink)
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Crank run out is how much wobble you have at the end of the crank. The cranks on the twin cams are 2 piece and are pressed together. Under heavy load, like burnouts or wheelies, the cranks can shift slightly wear they are pressed together causing run out. Guys that build up high hp engines, actually take the cranks out and have them trued and welded.
Nice explanation...
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Old 02-07-2009, 06:35 AM   #218 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronw435 View Post
Just took mine down after 33K. Both tensioners had very minimal wear, front did not even have a groove worn in it but had some pitting. Rear barely had a groove starting, maybe .005. But this one also have some serious pitting. Does anyone know what causes the pitting? Been using Mobil 1 for about 15k.

Ron
Mine had the same wear with the same mileage when I did the gear swap.
As far as the pitts,the mat'l is breaking apart.
These are the pieces that are found in the filter.
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Old 02-08-2009, 06:14 AM   #219 (permalink)
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Have a 2000 Ultra with 35k. I pulled the cam cover to check . Found the outer worn down about 1/3, not bad I thought. Got my dental mirror and checked the inner one.... Still there but cracked where it pins to the tensioner. Went to my local dealer who couldn't wait to work on it under the extended warranty. There were no symptoms other a little more noise from the cam area. Putting stock parts back in. If there is a next time I'll put in the SE upgrade kit.
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Old 02-08-2009, 06:34 AM   #220 (permalink)
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Have a 2000 Ultra with 35k...

>SNIP<

...stock parts back in. If there is a next time I'll put in the SE upgrade kit.
Oh; there will be a "next time" mister... Just you wait...

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Hehehe... "next time"... "If"... hahahahaha....





PS: hahahahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahahaaaaaaaa..... "if"... "next..." hahahahahahahahahahahhaahaaaaa.... No; really.... >snicker<
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Old 02-08-2009, 06:37 AM   #221 (permalink)
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...not that I'm cynical or anything....
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:47 PM   #222 (permalink)
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'03' changed them myself at 24,000. Rear probably had 10,000 to 15,000 yet to go. Front one had alot more left. Saved 600.00 to 700.00$ doing it myself. Was not to tuff a job. Just take your time and have a shop manual. Special tools needed are cam and crank sprockett lock block tool and cam chain tensioner tool. If you change the inner bearings like I did you'll need a tool for that also. It's about 200.00$ I was lucky my local dealer mechanic let me rent his for 50.00$. the other tools I mentioned earlier I think cost me about 75.00$ from a Jim tool dealer online. Oh I almost forgot you need 2 Evo tappet block alignment tools about 15.00$ for 2. Those are to align the oil pump. Also you'll have to have the cams pressed out to install the new tensioners on the cam plate. I am not a pro I do what have to to save money and ever since my first shovel head I kinda take pride in doing my own work on my scoot.
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Old 02-15-2009, 02:00 AM   #223 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oregonkickstart View Post
I am curious about the symptoms when the tensioners fall apart. My '06 was running fine up until a couple days ago. I noticed some strange vibes and an odd exhaust note first, then the bike would not idle high enough. When I plugged into it today to check it out it began running almost wide open, then dropped back down to not idling correctly. Without turning the throttle and holding it, it would not idle. Seems like the timing is off so I thought of this problem right away. It feels extremely rough when running. I have an '06 FXTBI with 15400mi. on it.
Just an update. Turns out my scoot suffered damage to the wire harness from my Thundermax ECU to the rear O2 sensor. The ECU tried to compensate for a bad signal fro the rear jug and produced symptoms of being out of time. Fixed the problem, but have yet to check the tensioners...
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Old 02-15-2009, 01:57 PM   #224 (permalink)
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Old 02-15-2009, 06:22 PM   #225 (permalink)
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Those look about normal. Replace them and check them again in another 30K. I know Harley doens't consider them a normal wear item item, but lets face it, they are. Check them every 20-30K and you are fine. Sure, gear drive gives you more peace of mind, but you can stay with the plastic tensioners as long as you keep an eye on em.

just my 2 cents.
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