Compensator Nut Size

[HD FBOY]

Can someone tell me the size of the compensator nut. I know it is larger than 1 inch and plan to install the shim tonight. I will need to pickup a socket to fit, what size do I need to buy? Also, I am also installing the SE cluth spring at the same time, do I need any special tools to do this????

THANKS!!

[deuce04]

Socket size is 1 1/2" you will need a primary locking tool. I have the Jims tool but there is a homemade version you can make also. Someone here should have the dimensions and picture of it.

Or try Georges Garage over here>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

[Bill Clem]

Also the nut is thin, so the socket needs to have the end cut back to the inner hex. Otherwise you risk rounding over the hex on the nut. OUCH!

[HD FBOY]

Thanks. Did a search looks like I can use a 2X4 to lock the clutch and chain. I will head to Harbor Freight or Sears to get the socket.

[Gulfstream]

The compensator nut is reverse threaded too...right??

[PosseRider]

I was thinking it is a right hand thread & the clutch basket is left, but then I am prob wrong !!!

[HD FBOY]

Originally Posted by Gulfstream

The compensator nut is reverse threaded too...right??

I found a 3/4 inch impact socket set @ Harbor Freight. No luck @ Sears.

I am almost positive that the nut is not reverse thread per the torque service bulletin.

[GPO03FatBoy]

Comp nut is 1 1/2", standard thread. A regular socket will fit fine. (I used a 3/4" drive Craftsman socket on my 1/2" drive breaker bar, via an adapter.) You'll need 1 3/16" socket for the clutch hub nut. The clutch hub nut is reverse threaded. It sounds like you have the updated service bulleting for torquing them back down.

It's worth checking your primary chain alignment before you take off the primary. That way, you can adjust shims behind the comp, if for some reason it is not right.

No special tools are needed to install the SE clutch spring. But - the clutch pack needs to be assembled while you take off and re-torque the comp and clutch hub nuts, so you may want to install your spring first or last, but leave the pack together while you actually do the comp nut.

[HD FBOY]

Originally Posted by GPO03FatBoy

Comp nut is 1 1/2", standard thread. A regular socket will fit fine. (I used a 3/4" drive Craftsman socket on my 1/2" drive breaker bar, via an adapter.) You'll need 1 3/16" socket for the clutch hub nut. The clutch hub nut is reverse threaded. It sounds like you have the updated service bulleting for torquing them back down.

It's worth checking your primary chain alignment before you take off the primary. That way, you can adjust shims behind the comp, if for some reason it is not right.

No special tools are needed to install the SE clutch spring. But - the clutch pack needs to be assembled while you take off and re-torque the comp and clutch hub nuts, so you may want to install your spring first or last, but leave the pack together while you actually do the comp nut.

Thanks. Tearing into her tonight to do the primary, and clutch. Already planned to check the alignment with the ruler and Dial Indicator. Got chrome for the upper forks and behind the headlight coming in tomorrow and new tires and wheels Monday. I hope to be on the road Monday night. As soon as Big Boyz slows down the engine comes apart and the heads go off to be ported.

Should I check the primary chain tension?

[weft]

What year bikes have the problem with the comp nut. Should i check mine 2001 fatboy makes me nervous to think what would happen if left loose.Thanks Weft

[HD FBOY]

Originally Posted by weft

What year bikes have the problem with the comp nut. Should i check mine 2001 fatboy makes me nervous to think what would happen if left loose.Thanks Weft

Search for the service bulletin. I don't think yours is effected as you have the old style bearings but I am not sure. 03's definitely have the problem.

[GPO03FatBoy]

Originally Posted by HD FBOY

Should I check the primary chain tension?

You will need to reset it. In order to jam the primary chain and keep from breaking the tensioner, you need to loosen up the nut and let the tensioner slide all the way down to rest on the primary case at the bottom. You will need to readjust your clutch cable too.

Also, FWIW, like was mentioned in another post, having some brake cleaner on hand to clean the threads works well. If you don't have the loctite primer, you may want to allow extra time for the loctite to harden before adding your primary oil.

Have fun.

[HD FBOY]

Well, the Three Stoogies are at my house this evening.

Got home about 4 and got the bike jacked up and tied down. Drained the primary, very fine silver material on the drain plug magnet. At this point I am 95% certian the dealer did not reinstall correctly and that she is already coming loose again. I can't find my tools, I love my son, but he has taken/hidden several of my sockets, called him at college and what do I hear, No, No, Not ME!! I also realize I have the incorrect Loctite, call around town, none available till tomorrow (assuming Grainger has it). Run to Harbor Freight to buy sockets. Finally get the primary cover off after 3 hours (should have taken about 30 minutes). Wife gets dinner ready I come it to eat and visit. After an hour I go back out to check th sproket alignment, replace the diaphram spring (looks like the 6 bolts is all I have to remove to replace the springs, correct?), and remove the compensator nut. Well I never got an accurate reading with the dial indicator. HELP, how do I get consistent readings here? I never was able to get the straight edge to sit flat with my magnetic base. Finally I gave it up, will get back on it tomorrow evening. Any suggestions?? Did I mention I spilt oil all over the floor, I did get that one cleaned up. Well, at least I am old enough to realize that sometimes this is just how it goes. Tomorrow will be better.

[berserker]

Originally Posted by Gulfstream

The compensator nut is reverse threaded too...right??

No the clutch is. I shoved a piece of snowmobile slide in the chain. Piece of plastic. I have heard of cutting boards, rags, and boards.

I just used 1/2 breaker brar with 2' cheater. Manual say to used impact as last resort. I might have tied the rear break down or reached over the bike, or just left it in gear, don't remember.

I ended buying an impact grade socket cause I wanted 6 pnt and 1/2 drive, most sockets that size are 3/4 drive. Got it at auto store. $25

If you got the time McMaster carr has it cheaper, they are pretty quick too, atleast in my area.

I keep mine in my saddle bag after hearing all the stories on thsi site about them coming loose.

Clean the old locktite off the threads, real good.

[HD FBOY]

Got both nuts off now. When I pulled the cluth there was a rod that slipped out of the reansmisson shaft. Is this normal?

Fighred it out, it floats!! Thanks for the help everyone and especially GPO03FatBoy.