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Old 11-21-2012, 09:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Factory or S&S Mainshaft inner bearing race

I'm replacing the mainshaft bearing race on my 2006 Ultra. A tech at my local dealer said, based on a photo, that the race had walked toward the transmission and needs to be replaced. So I checked my service manual for guidance on installing the new race. It says to leave a 2.5mm gap between the tranny side of the race and the drive gear. Having checked it earlier to be sure my puller could get in behind the race I knew there was a gap, so I checked it and found it to be 2.5mm. It doesn't seem that the race has walked as the tech suggested. I'm going to replace the race anyway because I'm installing a new Chrome inner primary which comes with a new bearing. SO my question is this - Since my bike has 80,000 miles on the factory bearing and race and the race does not appear to have walked, should I go back with the factory 34091-06 race ( which I already have ) or install the S&S 56-5089 race. Here is a photo of the old race. Does it look like it has walked?
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Baker Drivetrain offers a heavy duty setup that should cure what ales you.

http://bakerdrivetrain.com/high-torque-bearing-kit
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Independant 1 - Thanks... I like the design. It eliminated the pressed on race. It's designed like wheel bearings. Just placed an order for one on Amazon. Got it for $25 after applying Rewards Points. With 80K miles on the drive belt, I wonder If I should replace it while Im in there. Hmmmmm??
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Nitram_b4 is reading this now saying WTF is this?
I popped the inner seal off the bearing before I installed the baker, so it would be lubed by the primary oil
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Sounds like a good idea but wasn't that bearing originally designed for Baker's dry primaries?
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Does the primary cover with the Baker bearing installed slide over the tranny mainshaft or does it need to be pressed and worked on?
The race was a tight fit, is the bearing a similar equation?

Thanks

Joe
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Old 11-22-2012, 05:13 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The one piece bearings are (should be) a slip fit on the mainshaft. If you can get the puller on behind the race you are good to go. It might have walked some (looks pretty tight from your pic) but not enough to need cutting. Are you going off the measurement of the gap or did you slide the puller in? That would be the best way to know for sure if it will fit.

It seems the race walks mostly when you bump up the HP/TQ numbers. I went through mine walking twice, had to cut it off the first time. Second time I was in for a leaking seal and got it before the tool wouldn't fit. At that time, I switched to the All-Balls version one piece double row bearing, worked fine for a year or 2, never had a problem with it leaking on the back side of the primary.

I don't know about popping off the inner seal to use the primary fluid as a bearing lube. I didn't try that. They are sealed bearings with their own grease. Should be able to leave both sides sealed and just use the grease they come with. Isn't that how just about all wheel bearings are now? But it does seem like a waste not to use the primary lube since it is there. Just a matter of personal preference I guess.

There was some roughness in the A-B bearing after a time, so I finally went back to 2 piece, using the S&S inner race. Pretty slick and no way it can walk inward.

As far as replacing the belt, I wouldn't worry about the miles. Look at the condition, let that tell you. If you are doing the work, and just happen to have a new belt just laying around, it might be "fun" to go through replacement. Another way to look at it, its not just the belt that has 80K on it. By 80K there could be a lot of stuff that needs replacing. Otherwise it might be better to spend that money on something really useful like a new bullet launcher.
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rootintootin View Post
Another way to look at it, its not just the belt that has 80K on it. By 80K there could be a lot of stuff that needs replacing.
I took a measurement and I slipped the puller in behind the race. IF you've used the puller then you know you have to slip the puller in at an angle. It was a bit tight getting the puller past that angle. But once it slipped in, it was loose. Having trouble getting the race to pop loose with the puller though. I'm afraid the puller is going to break. Will probably need to cut it off. Not looking forward to that.

I got into the primary just to replace the leaking shifter shaft seal and the wobbled out shifter shaft arm. When I got in there I realized the Compensator spring was broken, chain tensioner was badly worn, and the toe shifter bushings were slightly worn causing a bit of wobble in the toe shifter. My tuner told me the clutch was toast the last time he had it on the dyno, so I decided to rebuild the clutch. The steel plates were blued like a blue steel 357. Then I figured I should probably replace the main shaft bearing and race and while I'm in there I might as well get that sexy chrome inner primary. I think I've ID'd all the bad parts in the primary and will begin putting her back together next week after receiving the new Baker bearing kit.

My bike is an 88 but running right at 90hp and 90 torque due to upgrades by at Cycle Solutions who installed gear drive S&S 510 cams, bearings, etc; on a Fueling plate, Fueling oil pump, DynoJet Power Commander III , Bub True Duals and Rineharts and then tweeked it on the Dyno. It not a ground pounder but it does scoot right along. Installing the Baker High Torque bearing kit might prevent problems down the road. It costs much less than the S&S tapered race and I don't need to install a new race.

Last edited by Kd4xr; 11-22-2012 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Nitram_b4 is reading this now saying WTF is this?
Mine was into the seal so hard I had to split it with a cutoff wheel, cut about 3/4 through the race and give it a little whack in the grove with a chisel and a hammer...then it will slide off with your fingers
Keep in mind the Baker fits pretty snug, it is a slip fit, but you must make sure that it is seated and not holding your inner primary up. lightly tap around the bearing on the inner primary to make sure the primary is all the way home before you start bolting it up

Last edited by Nitram_b4; 11-22-2012 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I had similar problem getting the inner race off.
With the puller putting tension on the race,
heat it a little with a propane torch.
A little heat and it popped right loose.
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:54 AM   #11 (permalink)
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UPDATE - I finally got up the nerve to cut-off the old race. It worked just like everyone said - "Cut 3/4 way thru the race with a dremel and then wack it with a hammer and chisel! That thing cracked and popped off like it was on a beer run.
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:10 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Nitram_b4 is reading this now saying WTF is this?
you have the hard part done now, install the new seal, make sure not to cut it slipping it over the splines, put some masking tape over them
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seehogs View Post
I had similar problem getting the inner race off.
With the puller putting tension on the race,
heat it a little with a propane torch.
A little heat and it popped right loose.
If you do this, go ahead and plan on replacing the seal right behind it, just in case.
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It's all back together, no leaks, no drips, and a shinny new chrome inner primary. Thanks to everyone who shared their expertise and support. This was really much easier job than I thought it would be.
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I recommend you do some research regarding the Baker 1-piece set-up. Looks good , but at least a few of us have had bad results with them. Use the S&S race & stock bearing set-up, bullet-proof.
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