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11-13-2012, 09:04 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: st.louis mo.
Posts: 201
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Tensioners
so what do tou kike the hayden b-107, baker or harley for the new bikes
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11-13-2012, 09:31 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Western Montana
Posts: 834
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the Hayden has been great on my 02 for the last 80,000 miles or so,no problems yet on the new one,so interested as well.
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2002 Superglide
2012 Road glide Ultra T-header,T-max,Tuned Induction
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11-13-2012, 09:42 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: st.louis mo.
Posts: 201
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i'm not to sure about the harley tightner don't know much about it
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11-13-2012, 09:50 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 103
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I'm a little confused by the above posts but I have an 08 Streetglide and I'm pretty sure I have a bad inner primary bearing. I think it was caused by the P.O.S. Harley auto chain adjuster. I will be replacing the junk stock chain adjuster with either the Baker manual adjuster or the Hayden auto adjuster. I can pretty much figure out how well the Baker adjuster works but I would like to hear from people that have used the Hayden M6BT-07 adjuster. I didn't mean to hijack this thread if I did. I think we are all trying to get the same info.
BP
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11-13-2012, 03:49 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 128
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Mark from Baker here, I am obviously going to be bias here and tell you to buy the Baker. That being said I have heard good things about the Hayden as well. The biggest difference is ours is a manual adjuster and should be checked at least once a riding season but for folks that are used to doing it on their older bikes it does not seem to be a big deal. Either way you go, go, get that stock tensioner out before it ruins something else.
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11-13-2012, 10:50 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark p
Mark from Baker here, I am obviously going to be bias here and tell you to buy the Baker. That being said I have heard good things about the Hayden as well. The biggest difference is ours is a manual adjuster and should be checked at least once a riding season but for folks that are used to doing it on their older bikes it does not seem to be a big deal. Either way you go, go, get that stock tensioner out before it ruins something else.
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Mark P, Thanks for your response. Checking the chain tensioner once a year is certainly no big deal. My experience is that once the chain has stretched initially there is not much adjusting needed after that. I hope that the only bearing I have to replace is the inner primary bearing. I am concerned about the main drive gear bearing, the roller bearings inside the main drive gear the mainshaft itself and the primary chain too. This junk stock tensioner really has me P.O.'d.
BP
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11-14-2012, 08:32 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: st.louis mo.
Posts: 201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark p
Mark from Baker here, I am obviously going to be bias here and tell you to buy the Baker. That being said I have heard good things about the Hayden as well. The biggest difference is ours is a manual adjuster and should be checked at least once a riding season but for folks that are used to doing it on their older bikes it does not seem to be a big deal. Either way you go, go, get that stock tensioner out before it ruins something else.
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was wondering if you could install the manual adjuster without having to take the chain off,i do like the idea of the manual adjuster.just what is the problem with the h.d. adjuster some people say their chain was loose when they checked it.
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11-14-2012, 12:11 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 103
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Removing the chain is not that big of a deal. Get a Harley service manual and it will take you right through it. I haven't heard anyone complain about the stock adjuster being too loose but that would be way better than too tight. Either way it isn't working properly. I'm replacing mine.
BP
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11-14-2012, 12:20 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 128
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Hardheaded, you do not have to remove the chain to install it. We have heard a couple reports of loose chains and far more of chains that are over tightened.Each time you let off the throttle the chain slackens and then tightens back up as you get back on the throttle. The stock auto tensioner can ratchet up when the chain slackens but has no way of ratcheting back down when the chain is tight again, hence over tightening the chain. This is causing a lot of primary, clutch and maindrive gear bearings failures as well as some compensator issues.
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11-14-2012, 04:13 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: st.louis mo.
Posts: 201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark p
Hardheaded, you do not have to remove the chain to install it. We have heard a couple reports of loose chains and far more of chains that are over tightened.Each time you let off the throttle the chain slackens and then tightens back up as you get back on the throttle. The stock auto tensioner can ratchet up when the chain slackens but has no way of ratcheting back down when the chain is tight again, hence over tightening the chain. This is causing a lot of primary, clutch and maindrive gear bearings failures as well as some compensator issues.
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thanks mark, ithought you had to take the comp. or the clutch basket loose to install,don't have a problem doing either was just wondering wasn't going to do to much to the new bike until it is out of warranty.
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11-15-2012, 11:25 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 128
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Hard headed, all in all the easiest way is to just remove the comp sprocket. The proper way (by the book) would be to pull the comp ,clutch and chain off as one unit. If you are careful though you can get around doing this but I do understand why the book tells you to pull it all off as one unit for the sake of folks who have never done it before and don't understand how the system works. Should you do it by the book, YES. Can the book be gone around, yes, BUT BE CAREFUL.
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11-16-2012, 05:23 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Seasoned Rider
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas Panhandle
Posts: 48
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Installed the Hayden in 04 now have 60,000 miles on the Fatboy without any hitches or problems seems to be working well.
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11-16-2012, 06:58 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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BigMo
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kingston,Tennessee
Posts: 557
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Ive had a HB-5 (hotbikes) hydraulic style in a Fatboy for many years of trouble free service. It uses hydaulic pressure to keep the chain adjusted, no over adjustment, auto on the chain stretch or wear, smooths out the shifts....its starting to show some wear on the shoe now, but hell its been 6 years or more if i recall right...
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BigMo
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11-16-2012, 07:00 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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BigMo
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kingston,Tennessee
Posts: 557
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oh....sorry....spelling on that last one....HB-125 tensioner, I just noticed I flubbed that one
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BigMo
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11-18-2012, 10:29 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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FNG :)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Beach CA
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeer1
Mark P, Thanks for your response. Checking the chain tensioner once a year is certainly no big deal. My experience is that once the chain has stretched initially there is not much adjusting needed after that. I hope that the only bearing I have to replace is the inner primary bearing. I am concerned about the main drive gear bearing, the roller bearings inside the main drive gear the mainshaft itself and the primary chain too. This junk stock tensioner really has me P.O.'d.
BP
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I think you have good reason to be concerned about the mainshaft bearing. Mine was bad.
I'm not 100% sold on the theory that the stock tensioner is causing all these problems, but, I hope it is. I'm spending the $125.00 for the Hayden, for the peace of mind, not having to always be worrying that the stock tensioner has over tightened the chain.
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