Changing my clutch myself...

[jpilone]

I've got 30,000 miles on the original clutch on my '07 Ultra. In the last year it has seen some heavy duty Drill Team use, but I've only adjusted it once behind the derby cover and still have a teeny bit of adjustment left on the cable, and it's not slipping.

But it's going to be time for a new one soon, and with a performance with the Drill Team coming up at the end of this month, I don't want to lose the clutch en route or while performing.

I am very mechanically inclined and I do have the factory service manual and have reviewed it. I have new friction plates and fluid, etc. I know I need to soak them beforehand.

Any tips for a first-time clutch changer?

Someone told me it's easy and only takes 45 minutes to do.

[Pikeslayer]

Do you have the locking tool? I made mine.

[petrock]

Couple tips:
1) While the clutch pack can be changed through the derby cover, it is a PITA due to clearance issues. It is much easier to remove the outer primary case instead so you don't have to worry about clearance.
2) You already know to pre-soak the plates
3) While you can replace the pack with the bike on its side stand, its much easier, and less stress on your back & knees etc, to do it with the bike on a lift.
4) Put some tin foil or plastic sheet or long metal drip pan under the primary to catch any oil drips. Its a messy job.
5) Before putting the primary cover back on, adjust the clutch etc and make sure that it operates correctly. e.g. the plates move in/out when you pull the clutch lever. Once your satisfied, button everything back up.
6) Make sure to use a torque wrench at the proper setting when the service manual calls for it. Its pretty easy to warp the plates, clutch spring, primary cover etc.

The amount of time it takes is entirely up to you. Since its your first time, you should take your time and allow for extra time. You don't want to rush it and screw something up. Its fairly straight forward process, so its not that hard.

Good luck...

[tthumper85]

Are you changing your spring also? If so stock or Heavy duty. Just wondering I'm about to change clutch on my road king not sure which to use on my 95 build

[jpilone]

It's all done! It was about an hour of real work, but I took my time and tookabout 2 1/2 hours overall. The original friction discs were actually in decent shape still, but I felt like it was time and it's better to be safe than sorry! I reused the metal plates and the OEM spring. Aside from pipes/stage 1, my bike is stock, so I didn't feel the need to upgrade. Plus the Drill Team gets a nice discount at the dealer on OEM parts!

I did it sitting on my butt in the garage with the bike straightened up with my motorcycle floor jack. No problems whatsoever!

[petrock]

Originally Posted by tthumper85

Are you changing your spring also? If so stock or Heavy duty. Just wondering I'm about to change clutch on my road king not sure which to use on my 95 build

For jpilone's application, the OEM clutch spring is perfect, especially since he's on a drill team. Using a heavier duty clutch spring would wear out his forearms after a couple minutes.

However, for your (tthumper85) application, the OEM clutch spring will work fine. However, a heavy duty clutch spring is recommended for 95" and up builds (especially those with high HP/TQ) to avoid prematurely wearing out the clutch plates. Just make sure to keep the clutch cable well lubed. I have the SE heavy spring and love it. I can feather the clutch for low speed maneuvers, or really get on it if need be getting that nice head snap between shifts. The lever pull is a bit stiffer, but you get used to it pretty quickly.

[kemo]

Back when I was a kid (older than dirt now) we would put a washer under the springs to give them a bit more tension. I don't know if it was really worth it or not but it was cheap and didn't cause no problem.