Re-
So I opened the trans from the top cover, and found that my pawl was adjusted correctly, but it did have some noticeable wear, and tear from many years of riding. I noticed that when I shifted down the "pawl" arm that turns the cam which in turn rotates to switch the gears was not grabbing properly, and slipping off the cam grabbing points as I applied the downward pressure. At first I thought it was just a worn pawl spring, but after some examination I found that the Pawl arm was just worn beyond the point of grabbing on the downshift motion even as I applied downward pressure to it manually (by holding my finger on it) it still slipped off! The "pawl" is just a little hook type thing that is attached to forward control shift arm (in my case) that grabs the cam as you shift in either direction. (I came to find when I opened the trans cover.) (new to Harley's here, and didn't have the service manual at the time.) For those of you having similar problems, and are new to this too.....
Downshifting the front hook on the pawl pulls the cam forward, and up shifting the back hook pushes the cam backward. The assembly is held on by a c clip, and a spring to hold pressure against the cam so that when you shift it can turn the cam forward, or backward. The cam sits above the gears, and is notched to turn the shift forks while riding between small channels as the cam is turned by the 2 hooks of the pawl itself to pull, or push against the cam in order to make the shift forks change the gears. (ya kinda have to see it to understand, but I am just giving those who are new to this like me an idea, and possibly some hope before you go in blind like I did. I noticed the the hook on the pawl for my downshift was worn down further than the up shift hook, so I decided to grab my trusty dremmel grinding wheel , and give it a little shape in hopes that it would bite a little harder, and not slip when I applied the downward pressure. Long story short pulled off the c clip, and grinded the pawl bike shifts like butter. Sure I coulda spent the 19.99 for a new pawl, and 3 for the spring, but this way was more fun, and I was broke from spending the 63 bux on the factory service manual that still hadn't arrived yet
. (the s.o.b came 1 day after I fixed the bike too) I couldn't wait to ride, so I said screw it, and made it happen!!! Hope this helps, and the moral to the story is if you are having shifting problems, and you have all ready properly adjusted your clutch, and primary chain peep under your trans cover, it's just a few bolts( mine had 5 allen bolts, and was very easy to remove, after I pulled off the starter, and the clutch arm.) Most of the time I was told it is just the pawl spring, and is a quik fix. Before I did this I couldnt even downshift to save my life it got so bad, and the bike had to be parked, so there's hope, and I had no idea of what a pawl was last week haha. Here's a random pawl pic I'll add for an idea. Peace people I'm goin back out riding!!!!!!
Just to let you guys know that are replacing the pawl spring it needs to be pressed out don't try to vise grip it out!!!!!! . I am a do it yourself kinda guy so I improvised with a small socket on the back side of the pawl pin, and used a medium size c clamp from Menards for 4 bux to force the pin out into the socket opening. It took a little finagling, but I got it out without torching it. Prolly not a good idea to heat it up by the way. To re install the pin put it in the freezer for at least an hour. Metal expands, and contracts with heat, and cold so freezing it will help you press it in easier. Just reverse the c clamp, and the socket, and press her in wasn't too tough.
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