Sportster 1200 - stage 1 - Why?

[RockSportster]

I'm returnin to bikes after 23 years on 4 wheels. Thinking of getting a 1200 Low but have been advised to have it stage 1 tuned and new pipes. Can anyone explain what the benefits are, the likely costs and what, if any, are the downsides (insurance for instance) Thanks

[Krayven Sumhead]

Doesn't make any difference if you buy a carbed or fuel injected scoot, they both run really lean to make it thru the EPA testing. Stage one includes a high volume air box, new jets if carbed, the ECM will be reprogrammed if fuel injected, and new unrestricted slip on mufflers on either.
Carbed is easier to work on yourself, FI sorta requires 'Stealer' involvement. I'll bet the cost is just about the same, probably around $600-$700us depending on what type of air box and slip-ons that you choose.
I own a FI Ultra, and a carbed Sporty. I can mess with the Sporty myself, but with the fuel injection, I have to go to a 'stealer'.
Even with the ECM reprogrammed on the FI scoots, people still complain about popping and coughing from the throttle body......They end up buying a SERT (screaming eagle race tuner) to be able to adjust all the parameters of the fuel injection. Cost: $400 for the hardware and then for best results the engine should by dyno tuned for another couple of hours of labor so another $600 or there abouts for that. The carbed bike is sounding sweeter all the time.
Advice: If you buy the FI Sportster while having the stage one done, just buy the SERT from the get go instead of letting them reprogram the ECM. They'll charge you for the reprogramming appox $150us. That's $150 that could be put towards the SERT and like I said before, the SERT enables all the parameters of the FI to be adjusted whereas the reprogrammed chip can't be adjusted.

[jasalmanza@yaho]

sorry for the newb question...

so what exactly is the definition of the other stages (2, 3, etc)?

Thanks!

Jason

[geoffreyt]

Hotter cams and beyond. The stage one nets the best horsepower per dollar spent. I would do the stage one and a dyna-tune. That should blow you off the seat.

[OldMiC]

Stage I is intake and exhaust mods.

Stage II intake and exhaust plus addition of aftermarket cam

Stage III (bolt-on) Typically intake and exhaust mods, cam and addition of SE or aftermarket heads, pistons, coil, ignition etc.

[Hodad]

A stage one fix (paying the Harley tax) will change your stock machine in to a real motorcycle. Provided you care for your bike to have any real balls, its nearly a neccessity IMHO and speaking from experience.....

[a_ride_4_ever]

You can also get a PCIII for a decent price used, just picked up a used one for 175 from a fellow member. He has another for sale as well.

[a_ride_4_ever]

oh and 1 more thing, if buying a PCIII or other ecm add on you can program them yourself, There is also a bunch of MAP's available "free" that are based off of common mod's. A PCIII pays for itself after pipes and AC on a new EFI sporty jsut in ecm reprogramming costs alone. I was going to have the ECM recalibration at the stealer it was just at $300

[RockSportster]

Thanks Milehog, I agree and have come to the same conclusion myself. I'll ride it as-is until next Spring and then make the decision. It's a damn real bike.. i love it

[route66paul]

A stage I can usually use a "canned" map. if you port the heads or change the cam, you should get a custom tune, that would be the time to go with bigger pistons, up to a point, you can bore your cylinders. If you want to go even larger, you will have to bore the cases for bigger barrels.

Do a search and use our sponsors for questions, they are great!

[ultraplusrotax]

Originally Posted by Milehog

Hello RockSporster, welcome to the forum.You have a real bike already, don't let others tell you what to do with YOUR bike. Ride it stock for awhile, you may like it just the way it is. Later you will know what changes, if any, you really want.

Stock is good enough;

[Hodad]

Respecting your 'conservative' advise and choice to leave it stock... fine as considered, but I can't help but encourage the Sportster masses who don't want to go round with the "Little Bike" gonna have to get a ' big bike ' some day complex, to miss the essential offerings of a well tuned stage one 1200 with stock heads. Unless your size and shocks don't support your body frame and weight on the Sportster I don't get the mentality of talking down the Sporty as the girls or temporary machine untill you get a ' big bike'! That said, if you leave it stock / restricted / anemic on fuel and with medeocre ignition charachteristics, your 1200 cc's won't feel like much more than an early import 500cc machine IMHO, and so you may be feeling the need to get the 'big bike' as you learn to ride harder and or two up some day....

32K trouble free and strong pulling miles on my 03 Custom with the following ( I ride mostly in Colorado between 5 and 10K ft alt.) ; SE air filter, 180 main jet, 45 low jet, Pingle fuel valve ( little to no sportster farting in the manifold), Bub Rinehart stepped dual pipes ( early set, cracked often, replaced without question by Bub every time, newer heat shield weld design now, having no problems..expensive but I think you get what you pay for with these pipes..IMHO) SE coil and a simple SE dual fire ignition module, SE split fire plugs, Magna Core wires... that's it and that was a huge improvement in driveability and top end. Have beat'n up stock FI 88's on dyno drags and when a big bike / bagger 'strafes' me on the highway we both get a big grin when my 'little bike' returns the gesture passing 115 along the way... If you are an average size guy with a girl friend that doesn't sink you in a cannoe, then you can ride two up also with comfort and plenty of pulling power... Sportster vibe?? Change your cruising speed 70-82...smooth on my machine... I'm used to it at any speed so it just doesn't matter to me any how, the whole issue is over rated if you ask me, get an import bike if you want real smooth....... ( solid mount bike < 2003).

No matter enjoy the ride... your day,... later.